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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After months of reading and searches on the web my Reefer 350 (90 g incl sump) is on its way. Decided to put it in my shop which is a separate building heated and insulated but without hot or cold ruining water. Been spending a lot of time up there recently and I like it plus I don't have to worry about a little water spilled on Susie's precious hardwood floor. It seems a lot of people have fish rooms so it must be a good thing.
I'm thinking I will use the garden hose to run water from the well hydrant to a 50 gallon container and heat it for water changes which I estimate will be about 50g a week. No UV treatment but I assume this is not a problem since the well tests zero bacteria. Will this work or can anyone suggest a better way or share advise? Thanks, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Question for tech math people. How long would it take to heat 50g of water to 78F in a trash can using a 500 watt heater? Initial water temp 45F with room temp of 68F.
Alternatively -how many watts are needed to heat the same water to 78F in 6 days. Bill
 

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I used to use well water and batch my water in 45 gal Rubbermaid trash cans. The well water here had virtually no mineral content and was acidic. I would batch the water to heat it and adjust Gh/kh. I used a pondmaster pump to continuously mix the trash can and then to transfer to the tank. Heat came from a spare 300w aquarium heater (plus the heat from the pump). If your trashcan has a lid a 300w should be able to get the water to temp within 24hrs.

If you haven't already I would make sure to test your well water for at least ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, gh, kh, and ph. If possible I would also have it tested for toxic metals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Cosi. Good to know it works. Luckily well water here is good. PH8, 0 ammonia nitrite and nitrate. KH and GH off the scale so plus 250. I was thinking of mounting the tank on a stand and gravity feed or do you think a pump is necessary? Could also do an automatic feed for the ato. I assume a heater at the bottom would create some circulation.
 

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If you are just heating the water and you are only storing water for short periods of time you will probably be fine without recirculation. I find that stagnant water gets stale/funky within a day or two in my area of the world (SC).
 

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You may find that you burn out a lot of heaters. They arent made as well as they used to be, and were never made to run hour after hour. If a heater quits, and you dont notice, you are still left with a can of cold water.
 

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I personally would be bringing the water in and allowing it to come to room temp before heating it. Not sure how long that would take (maybe 24 hrs) but I would keep it circulating with an air stone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oscar6 said:
You may find that you burn out a lot of heaters. They arent made as well as they used to be, and were never made to run hour after hour. If a heater quits, and you dont notice, you are still left with a can of cold water.
You are probably right on burning out heaters so I'm wondering if I should get a immersion tank heater designed for the job. A regular domestic water heater I guess would also do the job. Bill
 

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Better still.. put the tank in the house. Put a water proof mat, like a doorway runner under and extend 2ft in all directions. Use a Python for water changes. Waaay less work in the long run, resulting in more enjoyment for you.Python enables you to drain, substrate vac and refill and if you are careful will not spill one drop of water. My entire fish room 6 large tanks, over a thousand gallons sits on hardwood flooring. Plenty of drips and small spills over the years, no damage at all. Flooring may not be as delicate as you think. I have done what you are considering, using big garbage cans to treat and warm up water. It sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wish the tank was in the house on my wife's precious hardwood. I'd be looking at it right now instead of a GOT dvd. Not worth the aggravation IMO.
 
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