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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Did a treatment with metronidazole and dog dewomer(praziquantel,pyrantel pamoate and febentel)for the dicus tank which showed stringy white poop for a couple of them…followed the api general cure method and did a water change after 48 hours and now noticed this in 3 of the discus and also two of the rams too🤨🤨🤨🤨who didnt seem to have any problems and now was white stringy poop,but one of the rams in this was hiding a lot for the past few weeks and i havent actually noticed him eating but he was chasing away others from him hiding place too
Is it common to have this after deworming?
Because now some of my fishes who didnt show any other signs are having white thready poop…And does that look like any kind of worms coming out of those discus…?
That checkerboard discus did have a sunken in cheek or forehead area too for sometime…He only eats the hikari vibra bites while the white butterfly eats only the sera granules…that too if presoaked in guarlic guard or even water…
Its the first time im dosing the tank with dewormer praziquantel…all 4 Corydoras are fine and 1 leopard bristlenose too looks fine…
The large white butterfly discuss did have a little more faster breathing than the others before and now looks to be breathing normally too…Good or bad?
Also most of my fishes have white spot also today after doing the 50 percent water change in the morning
I did have high nitrates in the tank as usual and i changed 50 percent water as well as dosed the suggested dosage for seachem prime which could be fair enough to cause a significant change of prameters which could stress them and cause the white spot?
Ammonia:0,Nitrites:0,Nitrates:40ppm
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How long have you had the Discus?

The symptoms you stated are signs that the water changes & tank maintenance need to be increased. IME the best thing you could do is keep their water pristine (completely new water at all times), which will help some of the Discus recover, but the ones who reach a point of no return usually cannot be saved. Medication has rarely helped, unless I catch it in time where the Discus are still fairly strong. Otherwise medication only made things worse. I'll repeat that this has been my experience and may not fit your situation.

Discus require pristine water conditions and they are also more sensitive to even small changes in water parameters, compared to the majority of other fish we keep in the aquarium.

I would shoot to maintain <5ppm nitrates in the tank if you want to keep them healthy and looking beautiful. But the goal may not be achievable in a tank with substrate unless it is heavily planted.

What is your water change schedule amount/frequency?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How long have you had the Discus?

The symptoms you stated are signs that the water change & tank maintenance need to be increased. IME the best thing you could do is keep their water pristine (completely new water at all times), which will help some of the Discus recover, but the ones who reach a point of no return usually cannot be saved. Medication has rarely helped, unless I catch it in time where the Discus are still pretty healthy. Otherwise medication only made things worse. I'll repeat that this has been my experience and may not fit your situation.

Discus require pristine water conditions and they are also more sensitive to even small changes in water parameters, compared to the majority of other fish we keep in the aquarium.

I would shoot to maintain <5ppm nitrates in the tank if you want to keep them healthy and looking beautiful. But the goal may not be achievable in a tank with substrate unless it is heavily planted.

What is your water change schedule amount/frequency?
Since i have had high nitrates in my well water i wasnt able to do much…and turning this old tank to planted wasnt possible for me at present due to certain reasons…i tried some discus as i got them for wholesale price from a farm nearby…Its been only 3 months since i got two of them(chekerboard and white face melon)and only one month since i added 4 more by rehoming the angels i had before…The chekerboard is the one having a sunken cheek area from day 1 itself but it grew well and got good colour and didnt show any obvious signs of parasites except being a little finicky and a slightly faster breathing compared to the others…also the white butterfly which has been only a month since i got it has now shown white stringy poop…following which i dosed the dewormer for the whole tank thinking the sunken forhead of the chekerboard myt be parasites too…Water parameters stay with ammonia and nitrites 0 and ph around 7 with nitrates always around 40ppm and more…
I change 70-80percent water once in two weeks and feeding mostly 2 times a day as discus needs to be fed well…I also dont get much time for this and im the only one hu is interested in fishkeeping and none of my family members are interested in doing anything so i dont usually get any help in maintaining my tanks…I knew a 40G wont be the best for disxus but i was giving it a try as the first 2 ones which i got seemed to be doing well for me and i admit i saw the short term success as a guarantee for long term succes…i had 6 in there for one month…
 

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I change 70-80percent water once in two weeks and feeding mostly 2 times a day as discus needs to be fed well…I also dont get much time for this and im the only one hu is interested in fishkeeping and none of my family members are interested in doing anything so i dont usually get any help in maintaining my tanks…I knew a 40G wont be the best for disxus but i was giving it a try as the first 2 ones which i got seemed to be doing well for me and i admit i saw the short term success as a guarantee for long term succes…i had 6 in there for one month…
I personally wouldn't put more than 2 Discus in a 40g. The minimum tank size that I've been taught is 75g so you can have 4-5 fish in there since they do better in groups.
RE: water changes: yes you would need to increase these. Also having gravel in there is a recipe for disaster. I had PFS sand in one of my tanks and this simply increased the amount of work I had to do to keep the Discus healthy. Gravel is much worse. 'Bare bottom' (no substrate) is the best choice for a non-planted Discus tank IMO.
 
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