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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So now my third tank which has ocellatus gold and compressiceps and cyprochromis.... now seems something has gone terribly wrong.
The ocellatus look ok but one of the two cyprochromis died and the two male and female large sized commpressiceps are both dying. I immediately put the compressiceps who were literally on their side into the hospital tank with my Williamsi who has been in there a day and a half. I had put Metro in the hospital tank yesterday. By the way a day before the third tank showed signs of problems, I took the nitrate level and it was as high as possible. I immediately changed the water 50% and put in the salt etc. Prior to this I had the guy who made the tank come back and take out a screw and clamp that was rusting into the water. Can that cause this problem? Can that make the nitrates go up? I also got some garlic extreme and put one drop into the 10 gallon hospital tank. I also decided to put the drop in the food of my other fish as a precaution because I am about sick of the dying. Meanwhile the two beautiful male and female conpressiceps 3" large are in the hospital tank lying on their side so I keep swishing the water to make them swim as much as they can and even hold them upright to try to coax them back top life. They do respond a little.
Also with the metro it says to add medicine after the second day but it does not say to change the water before adding.
By the way the third tank now has a nitrate level of 20.
 

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The reason you keep nitrates between 10ppm and 20ppm is that the fish cannot tolerate sudden, large changes in the levels, even if the water is getting cleaner. What salt are you adding?

If you have a tank that has gotten very high over time (no rust does not cause nitrates...they are organic) then you do smaller more frequent water changes so the change is gradual.

I like to do 20% daily or 2X daily when the tank has very high nitrates. Tangs are more sensitive to water issues than Malawi and cyps are THE most sensitive I have ever kept.

Metro does not last more than 24 hours so go ahead and change water to keep it under 20ppm (unless it is already much higher than 20ppm).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DJRansome said:
The reason you keep nitrates between 10ppm and 20ppm is that the fish cannot tolerate sudden, large changes in the levels, even if the water is getting cleaner. What salt are you adding?

If you have a tank that has gotten very high over time (no rust does not cause nitrates...they are organic) then you do smaller more frequent water changes so the change is gradual.

I like to do 20% daily or 2X daily when the tank has very high nitrates. Tangs are more sensitive to water issues than Malawi and cyps are THE most sensitive I have ever kept.

Metro does not last more than 24 hours so go ahead and change water to keep it under 20ppm (unless it is already much higher than 20ppm).
DJ I did not know that...thank you..probably too late. But they are still alive in the hospital tank. So in a 10 gallon tank how much water can I take out with the compressiceps in there? I am trying so hard to keep them going I do not want top back off now. How often can I put in the drop of garlic? can I dose the hospital tank with Metro daily after a water change?
 

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If nitrite is zero there is no need for a water change. Has the level of aquarium salt been exactly the same since you started the tank?

I don't use garlic at all so you are on your own there.

When I use metronidazole I dose 2X daily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am so glad to learn that Tangs are very susceptible to large nitrate changes. I have lost many in that past and could never figure out why. Apparently the little ones take it better.
 

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All fish are sensitive to large parameter changes of any kind.

Malawi will survive things that Tanganyikans will not, but either can die.
 
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