Cichlid Fish Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have three trays in my canister filter.

Where the water enters from the tank, currently I have a double bonded medium course/medium fine floss pad and carbon in the bottom tray, a standard floss pad, zeolite and Purigen in the middle tray, and a bio-sponge and ceramic rings in the top tray before the water goes out.

The zeolite is just an experiment, I'm not sure I'll stick with it. And I have so many porous rocks in my tank that I'm not even sure I need the sponge and ceramic rings. But it seems that every time I open my filter I do something different, so it's a work in progress.

I guess I'll get to wherever I'm going, eventually. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Carbon should never be an every day component of your filter. Carbon, dust specifically has been found to be a contributor to HITH in cichlids. Use the space the carbon takes up for more bio media.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oscar6 said:
Carbon should never be an every day component of your filter. Carbon, dust specifically has been found to be a contributor to HITH in cichlids. Use the space the carbon takes up for more bio media.
Wonderful. Just when things begin to clear up, they get murky again. Huge sigh.

Thanks for the response. I would have never known.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Annnd, as with anything on the internet, it seems as if for every mention that carbon should not be used in the aquarium, there is one that disputes it.

I suppose it should be taken under advisement, until I can form an opinion on the matter based on further research and observation. Blah.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
I have never run carbon in my filters. My reason is simple. If I didn't't add any chemicals, why do I need carbon to filter the water? Or if I am adding chemicals, why would I run carbon that is just going to filter them out? Just seems wasteful either way.

Only bio media and mechanical filtration for me.

I do use a .5 micron carbon block to filter my tap water though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
I run 2 eheim 2217s and run their recommended eheim mech -> coarse filter pad -> eheim substrat -> fine filter pad. Their media isn't the cheapest, but it seems to last so long that the cost doesn't bother me. I also don't run the carbon pads based on the info *** read here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
If you're going to use Purigen, it should be the last thing in the canister that the water passes through.
Eg. all sponges, mech, bio and filter floss should all be before the Purigen. I have it sitting on top of the pillow batting at the very top of my Eheims.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
noddy said:
If you're going to use Purigen, it should be the last thing in the canister that the water passes through.
Eg. all sponges, mech, bio and filter floss should all be before the Purigen. I have it sitting on top of the pillow batting at the very top of my Eheims.
I had it like that actually. I changed it because I moved the ceramic rings to the top tray where the sponge was, and there wasn't room to get the Purigen in there as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
fish_gazer said:
noddy said:
If you're going to use Purigen, it should be the last thing in the canister that the water passes through.
Eg. all sponges, mech, bio and filter floss should all be before the Purigen. I have it sitting on top of the pillow batting at the very top of my Eheims.
I had it like that actually. I changed it because I moved the ceramic rings to the top tray where the sponge was, and there wasn't room to get the Purigen in there as well.
It will clog up and need to be regenerated much sooner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
767 Posts
We use our canister filters for mechanical filtration only. I do not waist space trying to put bio filtration,ceramic ring and the sort, in our canisters. We use sponges and lots of them with different types of bonded filter pads. When it is time to clean them, I take the water hose and blast them out. Our bio filtration is in our tank, substrate and rocks.
As a side note, beneficial bacteria grows very well in sponges. We've been using carbon for years with no problems at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,676 Posts
joselepiu said:
fish_gazer said:
The zeolite is just an experiment, I'm not sure I'll stick with it.
what is it for???... :-? :-? :-?
Zeolite removes ammonia from the water and should only really be used in emergency situations at best. It really limits the capabilities of the natural biological filtration that occurs in well cycled aquariums.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,676 Posts
BlueSunshine said:
joselepiu said:
caldwelldaniel26 said:
It really limits the capabilities of the natural biological filtration that occurs in well cycled aquariums.
how??? :-? :-? :-? ...
why??? :-? :-? :-? ...
Well think about it......if it absorbs ammonia, what is the bacteria going to eat?
Exactly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BlueSunshine said:
joselepiu said:
caldwelldaniel26 said:
It really limits the capabilities of the natural biological filtration that occurs in well cycled aquariums.
how??? :-? :-? :-? ...
why??? :-? :-? :-? ...
Well think about it......if it absorbs ammonia, what is the bacteria going to eat?
That is succinctly put.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
noddy said:
If you're going to use Purigen, it should be the last thing in the canister that the water passes through.
Eg. all sponges, mech, bio and filter floss should all be before the Purigen. I have it sitting on top of the pillow batting at the very top of my Eheims.
I do the same thing with my Purigen but I am beginning to think that doing this reduces the effectiveness of Purigen. Purigen is designed to remove stuff from the water that will eventually break down and form nitrate (therefore it reduces the amount of nitrate produced). It doesn't remove nitrate directly but it does absorb waste that eventually break down into nitrate. So if you are running Purigen last you don't really get this benefit because everything else in your filter is either trapping this stuff or breaking it down into nitrates before it reaches the Purigen. So I think that running Purigen in a separate filter (either a reactor or an HOB) that is taking water directly from the display tank is the better way to go with Purigen. I think you can get more benefit from it that way. I might be wrong, its just a theory of mine. But I am probably going to try this and see if I'm correct.

The problem with doing this is that it will probably reduce the overall amount of ammonia that gets to your biological filtration. So if you do this the stability of the filtration system might become dependent on the Purigen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,518 Posts
gillmanjr said:
noddy said:
If you're going to use Purigen, it should be the last thing in the canister that the water passes through.
Eg. all sponges, mech, bio and filter floss should all be before the Purigen. I have it sitting on top of the pillow batting at the very top of my Eheims.
I do the same thing with my Purigen but I am beginning to think that doing this reduces the effectiveness of Purigen. Purigen is designed to remove stuff from the water that will eventually break down and form nitrate (therefore it reduces the amount of nitrate produced). It doesn't remove nitrate directly but it does absorb waste that eventually break down into nitrate. So if you are running Purigen last you don't really get this benefit because everything else in your filter is either trapping this stuff or breaking it down into nitrates before it reaches the Purigen. So I think that running Purigen in a separate filter (either a reactor or an HOB) that is taking water directly from the display tank is the better way to go with Purigen. I think you can get more benefit from it that way. I might be wrong, its just a theory of mine. But I am probably going to try this and see if I'm correct.

The problem with doing this is that it will probably reduce the overall amount of ammonia that gets to your biological filtration. So if you do this the stability of the filtration system might become dependent on the Purigen.
To be honest, I have started running purigen in an A.C on my 40g long grow out tank. It lasts about a month before it needs recharging whereas when it's in my canisters on a 210g tank it goes unchecked for months as it's such a pain to disconnect and open up the cans. I'll bet it only lasts a week in that tank.
I'm going to stop using it all together on the big tank unless I can figure out some way to run it in an emperor 400.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I have 2 sunsun 704b filters (great filters by the way)
both are setup the pond guru way with the bottom tray having all mechnical 2 blue foams and a fine.
the top 3 trays are all bio with filter one having 5 liters of biohome ultra and filter 2 having 4 liters of Pond Matrix and 2 liters of standard matrix.

The biohome is excellent but a bit pricey.
Pond matrix is better than the standard matrix as the pieces are larger and there is less common rocks mixed in.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top