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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building my own stand for my 125g tank and plan to use a sump system inside. Can anyone help me with what type of paint works best? I went to the paint store and they got me really confused. One person said all latex acrylic was enamel and another said it was not. I found some that looked perfect (Zinsser WaterTite Water Proofing Paint) but it said for ‘Interior / exterior concrete & masonry.’ (might not be good on 2x4’s) Anyway, what better way to know than to ask others who have done this before me! I want a bright gloss white so it is easier to see and work inside. Maybe I could use water based Polyurethane over the latex? Please Help. - Thanks
 

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Maybe I could use water based Polyurethane over the latex?
That's what I'd do, just make sure the sealer specifically says it can be used over latex. I used Minwax Polycrylic, I believe it was called, but just over bare wood. Low odor, worked well.
 

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in my stands, I seal the stand with DAP or the like at the seams and then paint with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer Sealer. When I had a 110g tank spring a leak at a seam, that stand managed to hold over 5 gallons of tank water rather than let it seap out and destroy my floor!
 

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I used an epoxy designed for garage floors on the inside of my stands and canopies. Iused white because it reflects the light well. Got it from Lowes. Since its a epoxy designed for floors its pretty durable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I first started this paint hunt I bought some Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer Sealer. Then I read the side of the can and it says under limitations: "Not recommended for applications to floors or decks or to surfaces subject to immersion or prolonged contact with water." Because this is a primer I wonder if that meant that it can’t be in prolonged contact with water or the finish coat (of whatever) should not. Anyway, it looked like the perfect thing until reading……..
 

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sheldon_goldwing
eventually, it'll peel off wood if the wood stays wet... but your tank stand shouldn't stay wet. I've had mine painted with zimmer for years with no peeling.
 

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I would think that the thought of water may be overworked here. A certain amount of water will be spilled and splashed and some may be there from condensation. But that will be very little compared to the amount of water the exterior of many houses get. They paint houses with ordinary latex paint and they last for years. If it is good enough for the Florida coast, I think it's good enough for the under side of my stand. If my stand gets more water than a house on the Oregon coast, I'm gonna move and get rid of the stand anyway!
 

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sheldon_goldwing said:
Number6

Did you top coat it?
nope. I've painted many stands with the same primer, but I sold the prior stands for the move to Florida, so I've only got stands with 3 years of time with the primer. No peeling yet and I am a messy aquarist and wipe down frequently with water.
 

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I would use an auto/marine alkyd enamel. Latex is porous and allows moisture to penetrate. That is the reason it is used for window trim on houses. Moisture exiting from within, doesn't lift the paint off the wood like it does with an alkyd. The situation here is reversed, so, a paint that seals would be more appropriate. That is not to say a latex won't work well enough, but I don't think it is the ideal product. I have used Varathane Diamondcoat polyurethane, and it does not hold up to constant water contact. Number 6's idea of using the DAP to seal all joints prior to painting is a good one, and might be more important than the type of paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I've never used a sump so I'm not sure of the amount of moisture in the cabinet. When I lift the light on my eclipse tank there is a lot of water condensation on the light shield. Do I vent the sump cabinet?
 
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