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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So *** finally decided to build a new stand and get a new and bigger tank. wife wants to get a bigger tank and ditch the 55 gallon...wife says bigger is better (story of my life) getting a 90 gallon 48x18x25 or a 110 gallon 48x21x30. so i started doing the framing the other day when i had time, just used some 2x4's and away i went. i got as far as putting the skin on with 3/4" birchwood and doing a little trim work. gonna stain it a dark red oak color. hopefully have it done within the week so i can get the new tank and start building the canopy too! i will keep you guys updated and post pictures as i go. sorry i didnt have time to do a write up, the wife keeps yelling at me that i spend to much time on here :lol: let me know your thoughts as i still have alot of work to do to this stand. im putting in 4 doors in this stand, having them made by a pro so i dont screw them up.
also which would you guys go with? 90 or 110??? :-?




 

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I just can't trust screws to hold that much weight

so you didn't build the stand to fit the width of the tank you want? if you get the 90 will it just be sitting on that top piece of plywood?
 

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It looks nice. But, I share cjacob316's concern about what is supporting the weight of the tank. The corners of the tank need to sit directly over the verticle 2x4's to safely support that much weight.
 

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Same way I build stands, but I add another 2x4 to the other side of yours between the upper and lower frames, thereby tank is supported by wood and not just screws...do not trust screws!! I've seen too many friends tanks buckel and stands sag to trust scews alone..
 

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The stand pictured is both overbuilt and built incorrectly... The weight is supported by hardware only AND I don't see anything that will prevent it from buckling sideways under the weight of a tank other than the hardware. Once that had some weight on it, it would not take much for someone to shove it and watch the stand scissor itself apart IMHO.

I would take it apart and start again. The good news is that you can reuse all of the parts... just needs some redesign. :thumb:
 

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I don't know, it looks like he skinned the thing with 3/4" plywood. That should be plenty of lateral support to prevent scissoring.

As for vertical support, there are vertical posts at the center directly under the long 2x4. I would want similar vertical support under the 2x4s at the end as well so the weight is transferred in a column load directly to a vertical post rather than through a sheer load via fasteners.

Speaking of the screws - the screws aren't going to fail. I would worry about them deforming or pulling out of the wood before they would fail. The screws I used, 1 screw was rated (conservatively, I'm sure) for a shear load of 350lbs each and a tensile load of 370lbs each. These were Spax heavy duty construction screws for wood to wood or wood to masonry construction, found at home depot in the 1lb green boxes. From the pictures, looks like he has about 10 screws at each corner, so assuming the weight was spread evenly, that about 14000lbs of shear strength in the fasteners, not counting that some of the weight will be relieved by the vertical posts in the center of the stand. The wood will be the weak link, not the screws. Unless he's using drywall screw or something.
 

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Let me get this straight. This stand is built incorrectly?? Really? Over 40 wood screws would just suddenly shear free? Then a 3/4 piece of plwood on top will just suddenly compress eight up-rite 2x4's That would then cause the entire exterior sheet of 3/4plywood to buckle and sag Then the plywood will just suddenly "scissor" and crash to the ground. WOW! I would start over. That thing looks like it is going to fail at any moment. Even without a tank on it. I would suggest maybe a solid block of concrete or granite. Dont forget to reinforce it with rebar.
:thumb:
 

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I would say it will stand and do the job but I agree that it could have been built a bit better. For next time, I would move the corner posts in under the top frame and on top of the bottom frame. That puts the weight directly on the posts and does away with the possiblity of the post slipping up to put uneven pressure on the tank bottom. I won't with the top plywood but the top would not have been needed and some plywood saved. It also adds strength to the frame by giving a solid surface to glue the exterior plywood to at far more points. This assures there would be no racking as well as makes any vibrations of the plywood better. With these changes one could go with a thinner cheaper piece of plywood. The center front 2X4 with two doors would bother me more than a single door with a 2X4 at each side so I had one door to access both left and right without the center blocked.

Not so big a deal that I would do over but ideas to keep for next time.
 

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wilpir said:
Same way I build stands, but I add another 2x4 to the other side of yours between the upper and lower frames, thereby tank is supported by wood and not just screws...do not trust screws!!
Helpful and to the point :thumb:

R-DUB said:
I would suggest maybe a solid block of concrete or granite. Dont forget to reinforce it with rebar.
Note to self ... Self... this guy has no clue to what he is talking about. :zz:
 

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I would also like to see 2x4's added to the outside of the uprights that are there, effectively turning the inside 2x4's into floaters. With that said, I think the stand is probably stronger and certainly looks nicer than 90% of the commercial stands out there....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jowlz said:
I would also like to see 2x4's added to the outside of the uprights that are there, effectively turning the inside 2x4's into floaters. With that said, I think the stand is probably stronger and certainly looks nicer than 90% of the commercial stands out there....
jowlz thank you! i fixed some of the problems that everyone pointed out... the stand was way strong enough but some people on here think they are engineers so i made the best of it. i went off some other blue prints i found online when i made the stand. to answer some poeples questions as far as the top board on the stand, i made the stand for a 90 gallon or 110 gallon. if anyone read my first post the tanks are 48x18x25 and 48x21x30. the top board of the stand over hangs because of the "look" i was going for and the foot print of the stand is 48" long. so the tank will be sitting on the 2x4's. not trying to start any fights here, just making a stand for the wife and think it turned out pretty good. so keep your negitive posts to yourself :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
R-DUB said:
Let me get this straight. This stand is built incorrectly?? Really? Over 40 wood screws would just suddenly shear free? Then a 3/4 piece of plwood on top will just suddenly compress eight up-rite 2x4's That would then cause the entire exterior sheet of 3/4plywood to buckle and sag Then the plywood will just suddenly "scissor" and crash to the ground. WOW! I would start over. That thing looks like it is going to fail at any moment. Even without a tank on it. I would suggest maybe a solid block of concrete or granite. Dont forget to reinforce it with rebar.
:thumb:
RDUB agreed! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so heres a little update on what i did tonight. didnt get much done today but finished some trim work on the stand. will have more progress over the weekend i hope guys!






cheers! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
next question is guys, would you put 2 big doors in or 4 door? im thinking 4 doors would look better, two on each side but... i think it would be more of a pain to get to the pumps if there was 4 doors rather then 2. what do you guys think?
 

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bft3278
I was aware of the dimensions and of the skinning with plywood. I've seen stands like yours fail in a fishroom over time so I passed along the warning. I did not mean for my reply to be a put down...

In my opinion, the stand will support many times the weight of the tank vertically so I say it is like many DIY stands... overbuilt. I still stand by what I said about what I believe is a possible failure point... hardware. As I mentioned, I've seen many an overbuilt stand fail over time and with the common wetness problems that an aquarium can experience when you rely on just wood screws.

If I were you, I would PM McDaphnia to come and have a look at your thread here. He may tell me I'm wrong and I'd go with his opinion in a heart beat... he may also agree that wood screws alone was unwise. He'd be able to provide more specific info than I can since I am not an engineer and can simply pass along how I've seen a stand like yours fail.
 

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just making a stand for the wife and think it turned out pretty good. so keep your negitive posts to yourself
Not much point in asking for response if you have only one answer in mind.
 

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bft3278 said:
... the stand was way strong enough but some people on here think they are engineers so i made the best of it. i went off some other blue prints i found online when i made the stand.
I think what some were trying to suggest was that when using wood to build a stand that will support the weight of larger tanks one should not rely on mechanical attachment, again when using wood.

If the stand were fabb'd outta metal, using mechanical fasteners alone would be more than suffecient. Wood issa dynamic material and does some silly things with changes in humidity and to rely on (insert however many nails or screws here ___) as the sole means of support would not be completely wise. FWIW I am not a weekend warrior.

If you are to offer a pic to a crowd and ask what do ya'll think, be prepared to don the thick skin suit. I for one did not see anyone here make an attempt to suggest that people could die but rather suggested a better than you used technique for supporting the top frame. It inna nut shell.

My thorts ... the ply wood skins on the sides if installed vertically and fastened to the top and bottom frame would prolly be enough to support a 90 or 110 gallon tank. I would have suggested as others did that the (2) 2 x 4 posts are over kill but would have been better utilized if located under the top frame and resting on the shoe plate.

Two doors will take up more floor space to open, four doors, more work involved, will give the same sized opening but use less area to open. Not sure four doors would yield better results in this situation as the doors are what, only 21" or so?

Project looks good so far, I am sure the wife should be pleased with the results :thumb:
 
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