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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Recently I have finished stocking my tank. It's overstocked currently with Juveniles. Last fish added in the previous 24hours. Last water change was 50% a week ago. Been holding off changing water this week as new fish was added and last was yesterday. Issue is the nitrate is rising and currently is at 20.0 ish........higher than I would be happy with even though I know they are ok up to 40.0 ish. Having spent a lot of money on fish in the last few weeks I don't want to lose any to water quality. Ammonia is zero and nitrites are zero. Should I do a partial water change tomorrow and the next day to get some of the nitrates out or leave it for a few more days and monitor the nitrates close. Don't want to stress the new fish with a 50% water change but don't want any to die from nitrates. Advice is appreciated
 

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I understand your concern is to keep from stressing brand new fish. Do you believe the water changes you do are stressful for the fish? If you use a Python water changer, or similar, then I don't believe you should have any reason to be concerned. Besides this, if you're matching water parameters (temperature, pH, GH) which is crucial, then no reason for concern there either. Not sure what else to mention other than water changes are extremely beneficial for fish health & speedy growth, if you do them correctly.

On the other hand, if your new fish really need some time to settle in before another water change, then I don't think it'll kill them to wait another week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My water levels are pretty similar. I'm in the uk and the water where I am is 8ph out of the tap. I don't use a python I gently pour in buckets so I know exactly what goes in. I keep it inside for two/three days also to get it warmer. I have always thought water changes for new fish until age last after a week was kinda a no go but if it's all
Good I'll do one. I must be wrong thinking water changes stresses new fish out. Thanks
 

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You don't want your temp to drop from 78 degrees to 70 degrees when you do a water change.

If you can only use cold water, then change 25% but do it more often.

If you match parameters (including temp), water changes are not stressful. What fish did you add in the last 24 hours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I put the two OB peacocks in within the last few days. Not sure how I can match water temp as it does go in cold. I will take your advice and split the changes over the next two days.
 

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Think about ken's suggestion and use a Python attached to a tap where you can mix hot and cold sometime soon in the future.
 

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If you are set on the buckets drop a small heater in each one. Or take a pot full of water from your buckets and heat it on the stove. Then add a portion of the hot water to each of buckets. Pour the contents of the buckets back and forth between them to get them all the same temp. It's going to take some work.
 

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A python is the best bit of kit you'll ever buy. Don't mess about with buckets and heaters. Think of the cost you'll save in the long run too. As mentioned you'll then be able to match the temp roughly from tap to tank. Much better and cheaper to use your boiler to do the work than let your tank heater have to do it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've seen the python water changers, they are more tricky to get in the UK but are on amazon. They are expensive like about £80. Am I right in thinking you declorinate the entire tank prior to re filling?
 

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Depends how far your tap is away from the tank (give it a measure) There is a 7.5m python on Amazon UK at 56 quid, the only other thing that's worth investing in is the brass screw that goes directly on the tap that the Python attaches too, they are about 10 quid and mine stays on permanently.
To treat my whole tank is about half a cap full of prime, I use a full cap, I put half in as the Python starts filling and the other half as the tanks is about full. I've even used two caps full with no problems.
As for water changes I guess it's down to preference and your nitrate readings. I personally don't like doing anything more than 50 percent a time, others will do a lot more. . I believe it messes to much with the balance of the tank.
Frequent water changes won't hurt your fish. How long after your water change is your Nitrates hitting 20ppm..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like the python could be a good investment, I'll have a measure up. My kitchen doesn't have a mixer tap so taps are deprecate hot and cold so I don't imagine I can mix the hot water anyway...not until we do up the kitchen anyway.

I don't know how long my tank takes to get to 20ppm nitrates after a water change. Is it worth knowing? Sorry if that's a silly question. It's currently at about 5 and last change was a week ago. Holding off due to new fish this week.
 

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So from your previous thread if it's only getting to 20ppm after a week then you are all good.
The extra fish you will be adding should increase that so just keep an eye it it. You may have to do a few water changes a week to keep on top of things. Keep a diary and jot down regular readings. You'll get to a point where you won't test the water for months because you get to trust your filter and your water changes are doing the job.
I test levels once a month in less I spot a problem with a fish. I do also swear by the Seachem alert strips that each of my tanks has which is a nice early warning sign if Ammonia did spike.

A thing I always do each morning which I'm sure most on here will do something similar.

1. Check both my external and internal thermometers and make sure temperature is correct or at least falls within the green strip range.
2. Quick glance at alert strip so I know there isn't any ammonia spike.
3. Feed fish, I probably under feed, but believe you'll have less problems with nitrate and algae if you start smashing a load in.
4. Observe every fish is eating and not taking it in and spitting it out.
5. Whilst there eating I also try and look at each fishes body and lips to see if I can spot and problems.
If I'm happy with all of above I sit back drink my tea and watch them eat and enjoy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for this advice! Some really helpful tips. I've not heard of an ammonia strip, it sounds very helpful. As I have been overly cautious lately as I have overstocked my tank ready for everyone to grow up and reject some from the groups I have I've been testing every day. I try not to over feed but they seem starving all the time. I reckon I feed them for about 20 seconds small punches each time that do t even hit the bottom 3 times a day. But I'm thinking now once in morning and once at night. Thanks for your help
 

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Not sure what they may call it in England but look at a Y-splitter made for garden hose use. If your faucet has a separate spigot for both hot and cold water AND your faucet threads accept a garden hose fitting, you might be able to DIY a solution using a short length of hose from each spigot, connect them to the Y-splitter, adjust the combined water flow to tank temperature and then fill your tank that way.

A pic of your kitchen faucet or tap may be helpful to figure out a solution.
 

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Twice a day is how I feed mine, some like once a day, some may only feed 6 times a week having a 'starve day'
Sounds like your feeding about right to me.
Just remember the more you feed the more waste they produce meaning higher nitrate levels.
I guess as they get older I generally look at there bellies, if I they are flat or sunken you may not be feeding enough, I like to see nice curves, don't like to see overfed fat fish.
Sunken bellies however is likely that your fish has bloat.
If you look up 'Seachem alert combo' they do a dual pack, one is for ammonia the other for Ph, they just sit inside the tank and constantly monitor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I ordered the seachem alert combo so thanks for the heads up! Seems like a very clever idea.....if it works ok. Thousands of reviews on Amazon says it does so I'm looking forward to getting mine in!
Also I have decided to split the 50% water change into three this week after what has been said about the temperature hit doing it all at once, first one done today so I'll do the other three over the week to Sunday. Much quicker for me!!! I watched the water temperature after I did the change and I saw no change in it from 80 at all!
 

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They are a great visual aid. I've tested the ammonia alert with Dr Tims ammonia so can confirm it does what it says it should.
I took a small tubs worth of my tank water and tested it with the master test kit for ammonia which I knew would be 0ppm and it was.
I dropped in the ammonia alert and left it for about an hour and there was no change, dot in the middle stayed pure yellow ie no sign of free ammonia NH3
I then added a few drops of Dr Tims ammonia and within a minute the yellow dot had changed from yellow to a purple/blue colour ie showing the presence of ammonia.
Took it out of the tub rinsed with tap water and but it back in a fresh tub of tank water and the purple dot went back to yellow in about 10 minutes.
Like I say great visual aid but still use a master test kit now and then to confirm all of your 3 main parameters are stable.
 

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Chrislick there is no need to keep your tank at 80 degrees. 78 degrees is plenty and it will help with your cold water changes and aggression and it is healthier for your fish.
 
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