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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a brand new Professional 2 straight out of the box...I know they have been discontinued but I have a brand new one I was given in the UK. So first off it's hooked into a 240v step up transformer....shouldn't be an issue...handles 100watts. I filled it all up with the media, assembled it, connected it, primed it, and I just get cavitation from air in the pump....a mix of air and water is coming out. Now I checked the main o-ring seal and lubed and it looks good. Normally when an eheim is cavitating and pushing out some water a little shake and tap on the cannister flushes the air out and it starts working properly, in this case however, after mouth siphoning to the point where I can hear all the air flush out of the system...it just goes caput and i get no water flow out...I can hear the impeller still turning but no water flow...can't find any kinks in the hoses so it's really weird, and unfortuantely I can't take it back to the shop unless i want to buy a plane ticket to do it.

Any ideas or tips? Could the outflow hose be too long (using standard hose that came with it)....there is some picture/step in the instructions about the 'priming button o-ring' but I can't see it, nor any way to open up the motor under the priming button.

Thanks for any tips
 

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I have had issues with the hoses being to long with other canisters, (not Eheim) but after taking some of the slack out, and completely emptying the canister and starting over fresh I got it to work. By starting fresh I mean to empty the hoses, canister, and everything.

Can you see any air bubbles in the lines themselves? I usually just did this a few times and got it going. Was always just the 1st time I used it too. Hope you get it figured out, if not I would contact Eheim if nothing else and see what they have to say.
 

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One thing that has worked for me in the past, is to fill both hoses full of water, then connect them to a full canister. Start the canister, and it works.

What you are describing sounds like a large air pocket trapped somewhere in the system. Do the hoses change direction at all - meaning go up, then down, then up to the tank? A set up like that has been an issue for me in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, the input tube does go slightly back upwards as it comes into the stand from the back...I thought it shouldn't matter since the overall flow is down but Ill try to fix that by cutting the slack out. I may try shortening up the return outflow as well, try running it without the media, and try filling the hoses with water from the sink and then dropping them in...so you guys don't really use the 'priming pump' (doens't really seem to work and didn't really on my old one either)
 

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I have a 2026 Pro II. I fill the canister with water and close it up. Then I attach the hoses, making sure they are properly hooked up. Next completely push the prime button down repeatedly until water from the tank is drawn into the return hose and down to the filter. Plug in and watch it go.
 

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Do not fill the output hose with water as it inhibits the filter from priming properly. It also helps to have the output/spray bar OUT of the water when priming the filter.

I can never get the filter primed properly unless the canister is empty of water. I always have excellent results when I follow the manufacturer's directions for any filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I followed the manufacturers instructions exactly the first time around. Last night I cut all the slack from the hoses, and tried priming it with the hoses empty and full...basically I can get it to flow with the return a couple of inches above the intake (into a bucket) but when I raise it up to tank level it no longer moves water. My friend was over and postulated that if it sat too long dry in a box, it's conceivable that the impeller was compromised, much like an outboard motor impeller can be, coupled with the initial cavitation we are thinking that ordering a new impeller might just do the trick....if not has anyone had success just hooking a powerhead up to the outflow and drawing it through that way?
 

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I've been following this thread closely because I'm having a similar problem with my new Magnum 350 which is my first real canister filter. (I don't think my little HOT Magnum 250 counts.) It does not have a prime button but says: fill half full w/water, start it, stop it for 10 seconds to fill the canister and flush out the air, then start it back up again...and just like eoconnor I have air in the line. Until I followed everyones advice here and shortened the lines, the canister wouldn't even fill halfway but now, I don't know...
 

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With the Pro II's the siphon is easier to start if the return is open (empty). EHEIM suggests to remove the plug at the end of the spray bar when priming.

I fill the can mostly before putting the lid on and then fill the intake line before depressing the prime button, helps get air outta this line and get the siphon started. I use the installation kits and fill the intake tube by removing the cap on the top, you might need to get creative if you are using the stock supplied intake.
 

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Eoconnor, exactly which model Professional 2 filter do you have?

If it is a 2026 or 2028, check and see if you are missing the small connector stub that connects the top basket to the intake port on the bottom of the filter head.

What is the distance from the bottom of the filter to the top of the tank? There are certain height restrictions on installing canister filters.

The impeller on this filter is different than an outboard motor impeller so there is no comparison here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe its a 2028, but I'll check when I get home....do you meant the gasket thingy that seals the lid of filter to the inflow (and directs the water down to the bottom of the cannister). I have been trying to run it without media just to get it started, but no luck there.

It's about 3 feet from the top of the cannister to the outflow hosing, and yes I have been trying it with the spray bar 'open'.

As far as the impeller goes, I only meant that if you run an outboard motor impeller dry for even a minute it usually damages the impeller, wondering if that happened here since it seems to be able to pump water up about a foot above the cannister but no higher...or else I just have a bunk motor but that seems unlikely.
 

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eoconnor said:
I believe its a 2028, but I'll check when I get home....do you meant the gasket thingy that seals the lid of filter to the inflow (and directs the water down to the bottom of the cannister). I have been trying to run it without media just to get it started, but no luck there.
I think she is referring to the input connector. Part #7342200 EHEIM Input connector

You line this up with the lid when you close it up. If you look thru the tube holes in the lid while securing the lid it you can see if it is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have this part and it appears to connect fine to the head. If you are trying to run the cannister empty though, without media, this part is not necessary, correct? Maybe I should take it outside and try to run from a bucket hanging up, it would be easier to see inside the filter.

I contacted Eheim and they sent me some lame PDF of a hose diagram in relation to a tank and it wasn't even the correct model filter even though I specified it in my email to them. The just suggested I have trapped air and gave a cookie cutter response that looked like they hadn't even read my description of the problem.

I am really starting to think the impeller is compromised and may just ask Eheim to send a new one...if they won't, I'll buy one but probably will not buy their products again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have, and it looks okay, but then again, I'm not sure what a slightly compromised impeller would look like, are you?
 

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Any chance you can post a pic of the filter in relation to the aquarium?

I'm just trying to help figure out what exactly the problem is.
 

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Still having trouble? Highly unlikely for impeller to cause a total shutdown if it is not jammed someway. Position of the canister sounds like it would not stop it totally. Most likely causes are air leaks on the side from the tank to the can or blockage in the system somewhere. Should be a simple process to go through one end to the other. Your reference to the boat impeller is different here. The boat motor impeller can stick to the framework when it dries and then tear when the motor is started without water. The filter impeller does not do this. It should turn freely without ever touching the sides and is plastic so it does not sticklike the other can.
 
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