I have a pretty large siphon break drilled thru and thru the durso return under the water line in the overflow box. I guess it is a 3/8"Ø hole mebbe a bit larger.RRasco said:
Sump return, hose check valve?
I was curious, on my 110 I have a sump with a PVC return using a PVC check valve to prevent backflow into the sump. I don't like the PVC return. I know people use hoses for returns, my canisters use hoses and I prefer this method, but what is everyone using to prevent backflow with hoses? I have a siphon break in my home made spray bar, but it doesn't work to prevent backflow.
I found a 3/4 check valve from Jabsco, but that is the only one of it's kind I see. It works out to about $18 and I'm not even sure it's safe to use for aquariums. I've actually already bought it, but still wanted opinions on whether it's safe and what other people are doing to prevent backflow on return hoses.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... M595745701
I found a 3/4 check valve from Jabsco, but that is the only one of it's kind I see. It works out to about $18 and I'm not even sure it's safe to use for aquariums. I've actually already bought it, but still wanted opinions on whether it's safe and what other people are doing to prevent backflow on return hoses.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... M595745701
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I hear, and see, air go into the break on mine, but the sump still keeps filling up. I'll have to try a larger siphon break on the 110. This question was specific to a 150 I'm setting up so I can still tinker with both theories.
Hey, can you guys post pictures of your PVC lines from the filter? I can't seem to find any pictures online, and want to get some ideas on how to run the line from the wet / dry water pump to the pre-drilled tank.
Someone suggested that I use flex hose from the water pump to a PVC union, and then PVC the rest of the way. Again, a picture of this suggestion would be nice. I'd appreciate it if you guys can post yours. Thanks!
Someone suggested that I use flex hose from the water pump to a PVC union, and then PVC the rest of the way. Again, a picture of this suggestion would be nice. I'd appreciate it if you guys can post yours. Thanks!
RRasco... Return the water at it's highest point.. The siphon will break prior to flooding your sump. I hate to rely on siphon breaks & WILL NOT rely on check valves...
The system is only as good as it's weakest point. If depending on a check valve, you are in essence dependent on a spring or plastic seal that you cannot inspect periodically without taking the return apart. Unions help but still.
The system is only as good as it's weakest point. If depending on a check valve, you are in essence dependent on a spring or plastic seal that you cannot inspect periodically without taking the return apart. Unions help but still.
Can you explain a little more? I didn't quite understand what you meant. Are you saying to have the outlet as close to the top of the water level as possible?
Correct. The higher the return line is there is less water that can drain from a siphon. Once the water level gets below the return pipe, no more water can drain...Are you saying to have the outlet as close to the top of the water level as possible?
The return on my 150 spills water into the tank 1/4" below the normal surface level. When power is off, 324 cubic inches of water return to sump. This is about a gallon and a half, plus that which is in the PVC piping.
To calculate this, your 150 is 72x18 so the top 1" contains 1296 cubic inches of water. This converts to 4.37 gallons. Gal = 231 cubic inches. My 1/4" depth is 1296/4 or 324 cubic inches.
As long as your sump can contain the amount of water which will drain back from the tank, you are good to go.
I used to use a check valve, but found that it restricted the flow of the system. I used to run the pump with open ball valves, and now they are somewhat throttled back.
Hope this helps.
To calculate this, your 150 is 72x18 so the top 1" contains 1296 cubic inches of water. This converts to 4.37 gallons. Gal = 231 cubic inches. My 1/4" depth is 1296/4 or 324 cubic inches.
As long as your sump can contain the amount of water which will drain back from the tank, you are good to go.
I used to use a check valve, but found that it restricted the flow of the system. I used to run the pump with open ball valves, and now they are somewhat throttled back.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the numbers. I've been meaning to figure them out myself but had not gotten around to it yet.
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