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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 100g tank has a 1 1/4 inch drain tube. and the return tubes are 3/4 inch. the tank came with two submersible pumps (Rio 1100 and Rio 2100), I know this is really inefficient. My question is what return rate should I look for on a new pump.
 

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I would assume 1,500 gph based off of this source.

It might be inefficient electricity wise, but with two pumps you can have two returns and increase overall water movement. Just food for thought before you start looking at spending more money. :thumb:
 

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I run a Mag12 on my 90 gallon and am happy with it. Puts out about 900 gph after head loss. I had to put the flared nozzles on the returns because it was too powerful.
 

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Shoot for 900 GPH or slightly higher, the Mag12 would do fine.

You can have more than one return per pump, you do not need two pumps to have two returns. If you are getting too strong a current out of your returns tee off and add another return to that line and the pressure will decrease between the two while adding flow to other areas in the tank.
 

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Don't strive for maximum of what the plumbing can handle because it'll be too much. 600-800 gph at the max head height should do fine. Go for the higher end because you can always throttle back a bit. Just keep in mind, the bigger the pump the more electricity it'll use. A mag 12, for instance, will push 800gph at 5' head and uses 110w and runs about $110. That should be enough. A mag 18 will push 1100gph at 5' head and use 150w. Runs about $125. The 18 would give you plenty of gph, but if you throttle it back, you're wasting electricity. In my area, it'd be $50 per year more to run the mag 18. Just stuff to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is for a frontosa tank so I can't have the water current too high
 

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also things to consider-throttling back pumps can put strain on them, causing more noise and heat. niether are bad in small amounts, both are bad in large amounts if you have to throttle back too much. Also something to consider is your overflow/drain type..if you have a durso/stockman/hofer type standpipe, then I suggest looking at trying to run a bean/modified bean setup..it will be utterly silent, allow you to utilize maximum flow the most efficient and is pretty failsafe. If you aren't running standpipes, you can still throttle back the overflow using gate valves on the drain. This results in the most efficient, quiet and affordable setup...

for example...I have a 100 gallon tank, with a pf-1000 HOB overflow...it'll handle about 1200-1400 gph depending on the pressure draining into my sump.

I have a quiet one 4000....at about 5' head including the angle and elbow, I was getting roughly 800 gph out of it. However, when running Hofers, I was having to throttle it back to get the quietest non-overflowing setup..back to about 600 gph. The drains could handle much more hypothetically, but not with those type standpipes.

I switched to a bean, which essentially maximizes your overflow, and I was able to fully open my gate valve on the return, so I'm back to 800ish GPH, a quieter, less heat generating pump, and the beans allow for almost infinite adjustment to quiet the drain down and/or compensate for additional flow. It's pretty novel and a pretty simple design that surprisngly was come up with just recently.

The reason for such a long winded post, is to just say you might be better off (depending on your tank, I have no idea of the details so I can't speak to it) getting a slightly less powerful pump...say one that'll handle 7800 gph at the max head you will have....and letting it run full throttle, then throttling back the overflow vice the pump. With a bean, you have that capability. Although "more is better" sometimes applies...after going through some Rios, a Quiet one, and several standpipe configurations to get the ideal sump setup..that is my experience. YMMV
 
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