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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Glass was not cut to perfection .. the way I wanted it .. so had to use 2mm tile spacer instead of 3mm (it is a task carry 12mm glass to the grinder to fine tune edges. Bit of silicon wasted and unpleasant build experience. Fine end result with a bit of forearm soreness. So much diff using 2mm VS 3mm gaps!
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Looks great! Would be interested to hear any other details, methods, your past experience with tank builds etc.

I’m always hoping for tank build threads around here!
 

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Nice job - when building a glass tank like that, do you do all the silicone work at once (between glass & interior seals) or do you first do the between glass, and come back later for the rest? Interesting clamp modification as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Nice job - when building a glass tank like that, do you do all the silicone work at once (between glass & interior seals) or do you first do the between glass, and come back later for the rest? Interesting clamp modification as well.
I usually do it all together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks great! Would be interested to hear any other details, methods, your past experience with tank builds etc.

I’m always hoping for tank build threads around here!
I'll share the good the bad and the ugly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
IMO getting rid of cured silicon using mineral oil/acetone/alcohol is a waste of time. Elbow grease with sharp blades do work. This was august this year. I underestimated a small SUMP build and forgot to use masking tapes in some panes. This and only this worked flawlessly for me.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice job - when building a glass tank like that, do you do all the silicone work at once (between glass & interior seals) or do you first do the between glass, and come back later for the rest? Interesting clamp modification as well.
IN this build I did not like very close cut seam. After 12 hours I used new masking tape and applied more.
Pics.
Did not like this:
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This looks better to me with added safety. The "ADA" style neat seams did not look good in real lol.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Corner braces done today. Extra silicon will be sliced off with a new blade after 48 hours.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another great advantage of using injection method is dismantling the tank is very easy since the panes don't touch each other and in fact are 2/3mm apart in the joints .. makes it very easy to cut through it. Just did this to make it smaller for a different tank.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Most important brace done.
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Is there a reason for the braces to be above the rim, rather than recessed into the rim? It makes sense all are done the same way, but for some reason, I expected them to be flush with the top of the rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is there a reason for the braces to be above the rim, rather than recessed into the rim? It makes sense all are done the same way, but for some reason, I expected them to be flush with the top of the rim.
I know braces inside looks better but is hard to silicon/glass cutting gets complicated. Since the corners are on top I put this on top too. Seams look clean + more room for water volume. I will make a wooden canopy so aesthetics don't matter on the top for me anyway. I plan to fill it leaving 1cm on the top. I have seen tanks 36"x24"x24" made with 10mm glass with no braces at all but I can't imagine keeping a tank like that in my house.
As per this guide tank this size has safety factor of 5 (since they have not mentioned bracing I am assuming their calculation is for braceless tanks, I might be wrong though)

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Another great advantage of injection method : It is easy to cut through 2/3mm silicon as te glass panes don't touch each other.

Glass from old SUMP cleaned to the bone with buffing pad:

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Overhead Sump just glued.
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My bad the pics are not in order.
 

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Nice! Thanks for the explanation, and yes, a canopy makes the decision moot.
 
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What is the buffing pad (does it go on a drill or a grinder) and do you use some type of compound with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Nice! Thanks for the explanation, and yes, a canopy makes the decision moot.
In the works sir. I like lids. I have a top mounted filter / sump so it's a must have for me.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What is the buffing pad (does it go on a drill or a grinder) and do you use some type of compound with it?
The one I have goes in a drilling machine and is a lot harder to use. The grinder attachment is way easier. I used finishing glass polish this time. Nothing when I used it for the first time. Push it hard on the glass for it to work. Glass can get warm ... Even hot. Only then it seems to work. But works great for sure.
 

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The one I have goes in a drilling machine and is a lot harder to use. The grinder attachment is way easier. I used finishing glass polish this time. Nothing when I used it for the first time. Push it hard on the glass for it to work. Glass can get warm ... Even hot. Only then it seems to work. But works great for sure.
Thanks for the reply. It sounds like something I might have to try on my glass tops. (y)
 
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