[jakekersley]

That looks amazing very well done!!

 

[eTrain]

Didn't build the stand yet? Your working backwards son. Do you have lights yet? Once you get it up and running leave your lights on and grow some algae. I think it will look great.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

Not working backwards when you have to lay a tank on its back to do the background E. Plus I needed some warmer weather to do the stand outside. Hopefully I will get it knocked out by Thursday so I can get the tank on it and plumb it to the wet dry. I need to put together my second acrylic tank for the wet dry to bulkhead to it to gain some more water volume. The acrylic is cut, just need to router and sand the edges and go to town with the Weldon.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

And yes I have lights for it as well. Couple options. I have two four foot dual bulb T5HO lights that I can stagger in the canopy and also a 4 bulb t5ho, that I could use too. I think I will likely just do the two doubles on angles and be done with it. It's not like two isn't enough on my four foot tank.

 

[DanniGirl]

I think I will likely just do the two doubles on angles and be done with it. It's not like two isn't enough on my four foot tank.

True...

 

[ratbones86]

looking really good. What color tint did you use to make the background color? i really love that look

 

[k7gixxerguy]

Thanks, I did two coats of drylok to seal them up first. The second coat was with charcoal powder style concrete coloring. Then I dry brushed with a lighter mix of charcoal, followed by buff, and then a touch of white highlights here and there. I also used red before the buff on maybe one out of five rocks to give them subtle tone differences.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

So I cut some wood down after work yesterday and started building the stand. Hopefully tonight I will get the rest of the uprights in and get it skinned.

 

[redsnookmfer]

Question? I know its not regarding critiquing your set up, but wanted to know what the white barrier was that you put on the bottom of the tank. I know I've read about it somewhere but can't remember what it's called. I think the tank looks great BTW. I'm have a 125 that is already up and running, but then saw this thread and thought it would be a to put that barrier down since I have 1 piece of lace rock that weighs 52lb outside the tank. Thanks

 

[k7gixxerguy]

I think they call it a light diffuser grid or something of the like. You can find it around the fluorescent lighting at any of the big home improvement stores. I had enough from my 75 and my 55 that I sold that I've got the whole bottom covered in the 125 now.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

Ok, back to one of my original questions in another thread that never really was answered. I will obviously be running the FX5 and my wet dry filter on this. The FX5 will feed the spray bar and the intake will be in the hole in the left side of the background. Obviously I will be using both overflows to the sump. I have a quiet one 4000 that is running return duties and if it dies out on me I will likely go up to something pretty big, currently in the neighborhood of 700 gph. Would you run both returns with both dual nozzle outlets and what kind of aim would you look for considering the spray bar, the filter intake and the position of the overflows and their own intakes in the lower sections of them. I didnt know if the output if it was "T"ed to both returns would be too weak. If I were to only use one, should I just put a screw on cap on the bottom of the bulkhead for that return? Plumbing wise, I'm assuming most people run pvc to a closer proximity of each piece of equipment and then a flexible hose to give it some room for movement and maintenance. Where do you get flexible hoses, just use the reinforced clear vinyl hose like is described in the spray bar build? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first truly plumbed setup and first overflows besides a cpr hang on. I didnt get much done on the stand tonight as the saw was broken at my local Lowe's which left me driving an extra hour plus to Home Depot and back. At least I have the remainder of the wood to finish the stand now. I miss my full size truck, or even my blazer, my lil pontiac G6 doesn't care for truck duty hauling 8 foot lumber.

 

[ratbones86]

also called egg crate

 

[b3w4r3]

Whether you use one or two return lines is up to you. Obviously splitting them into two lines would mean less flow from each output. I think the lower the T is the less flow you will get overall with two lines, so I would try to keep the T near the top of the tank so as not to create extra head pressure. The T itself is going to reduce flow a bit too. Capping one of the returns if you plan to use one line would be fine. I don't use any PVC in my return at all, just vinyl hose attached to the pump and a return nozzle that hangs over the back. PVC would work ok but again any fittings, like mating a hose bib connection, is going to reduce overall output. With all vinyl the hose is able to make gradual bends so it's not as restrictive as some PVC options will be. You can get some nice 3/4 inch braided hose from any of the home improvement stores.

I think any returns from a filter that does bio filtration should be aimed in a manner which allows the return water to flow horizontally just under the surface so that it mixes with the air. The water returning from a bio filter is low in oxygen so aiming them in a downward manner will impact overall O2 in the tank. Same goes for your canister spray bar.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

Thanks, my returns from the wet dry will have to T under the tank as they are entering the tank via bulkheads in the overflow sections, not coming overtop of the back wall.

 

[k7gixxerguy]

On a related topic. Can you explain how a wet dry doesn't supply oxygenated water. Does the bacteria use up a lot of the oxygen introduced as its running through the bio balls on its way back to the pump? I would have thought all the fast splashing through the vacant air on its way through the bio balls would have made it oxygen rich. Any added understanding via discussion is appreciated.

 

[b3w4r3]

I would have to do dissolved O2 tests to answer this accurately. It's always been my opinion that no filters are 100% efficient at removing ammonia or consuming all available O2 on a single pass. Any articles I have read concerning returning water says it will be low in O2 though, whether it be a canister, or wet dry. Every tank will be different depending on nutrient load and filter efficiency.

I think a lot of O2 is consumed in the hoses/pipe between the return pump and the tank output. I'm sure you have seen how much bacteria builds up if you have ever used clear hoses.

 

[ratbones86]

I think a lot of O2 is consumed in the hoses/pipe between the return pump and the tank output. I'm sure you have seen how much bacteria builds up if you have ever used clear hoses.

Crazy amounts of bacteria lol

 

[k7gixxerguy]

Ok, another question. I have my stand ready to be skinned in 1/2" but before I put the trim that will hide the black plastic on the tank, is there any reason on a reef ready tank to put plywood down as the top for the stand? Currently it is 2 by 6"s framed on their sides as expected. With having the wet/dry and refugium going under there I'd like to just let the tank sit on the 2 by 6" that way there will also be more places for the humidity to escape rather than get trapped under the plywood top. It seems like a waste of wood unless anyone has a valid reason behind doing this, not to mention adding more to the height. The bottom of the tank will be 36" from floor height now. I made the stand basically the same height as my 67 due to the fact that I am over 6 foot and most stands seem a little low to me. I also will be painting the inside of the stand white to seal it and reflect light as I do plan on keeping plants in the refugium. I have some kilz from another project, or I have a bunch of drylok left from the background project. Im not sure if drylok can be used on wood though. Any opinions on which would get the job done better?

 

[ratbones86]

i wouldnt see a reason to unless your wanting to be extra sure your stand is level. If everything is level there isnt a need for another board on top. The stand i built doesn't have one.

 

[DanniGirl]

There's pros and cons.

The advantages are unless the 2x6's are kiln dried, there's a chance they're going to warp a small amount. The plywood will prohibit them from warping.
It will also stop diagonal twisting.

Is it require though? No. :wink:

If you're going to skin it, I would suggest an oil based wood stain with polyurethane. I've had great success with these products in the past but there are others on the market that will do just as well.