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Red Bishop or Black Kriza !

1.2K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  abhis  
#1 ·
Hello expert,

Just give me a idea .....which species I should keep my 53 inch (len) x 18 inch (height) x 15 inch (depth) 60 gallon tank.

I want to keep a single species as a colony.

So which one looks better and relatively easy to keep !! Also want to breed.

There is lots of rocks, caves as well as some open space too.

Hope I can keep few Julie with them.

Note: I have only issue is in summer water temperature goes to 30 degree centigrade.

Thanks in advance.

Also you have any advice let me know.

Abhis from Kolkata, India
 
#2 ·
The Red Bishop is a line-bred, man-made strain that does not exist in Nature. It was derived from Tropheus sp. 'black' Caramba by selecting for fishes with progressively less black pigment. The result is a fish that is pinkish when young, getting progressively more orange-red as they mature. IMO, if you want orange-red fishes, there are prettier examples in Lake Malawi, e. g. Metriaclima estherae.

Tropheus sp. 'black' Kiriza is a natural population that is one of the prettiest Tropheus in Lake Tanganyika. It is a striking jet-black fish with a bright yellow band at mid-body, similar to but distinct from T. sp. 'black' Ikola. It too has been subjected to line-breeding to produce the so-called 'Gold Kiriza,' which is a yellow fish without black pigment. It is not nearly as pretty as wild-type Kiriza. Again, it is my view that if you want yellow fishes, there are prettier examples amongst the Mbuna of Lake Malawi.

I would suggest that you go with Tropheus sp. 'black' Kiriza, as not only are they prettier than the 'Red Bishop,' they are a natural population, not an inbred, man-made strain. You will need a colony of 12-14 individuals in your tank. Tropheus and Julidichromis are not generally a happy combination. Good luck.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi Keith,

Thanks a lot.

I am extremely happy with your response. My mind also asking me for Black Kiriza bcz I don't like man made fish. My personal choice.

I am in this hobby last 45 years. Only freshwater and planted tank. Previously my top favorite was Discus but last couple of years I am doing Tanganyikan, and already have Lelupi and Julie. Both I am able to breed. Also I had L. Bichardi and that also I am successful to breed. But I have to sell all Bichardi as they going too much aggressive.

That's why I want to keep some Tropheus though at first I thought about Tropheus Ilangi or KASAKALAWE, but my wife don't like them also bit costlier. :)

Anyway I am going for Tropheus sp. 'black' Kiriza a small colony of 12. Hope I will be able to take care of them.

Thanks again for your nice explanation and kind words.

With Best Regards
Abhis
 
#8 ·
The pH of Lake Tanganyika is generally ~9. You may get away with <8 for Julidichromis and Neolamprologus, but Tropheus definitely do best at pH>8.5. It doesn't matter a great deal whether that are TR or not; they've evolved at a high pH, and will do best when kept there. And as you are planning to increase GH/KH, I'd advise you to increase the pH as well.
 
#10 ·
Buffering and raising the PH of aquarium water can get expensive over time using aquarium-specific products. This DIY ‘recipe’ may help save you some coin,


And, if you are going to commit to adjusting the chemistry of your water, I strongly recommend the purchase of a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) Meter. Using that piece of kit to measure those dissolved solids in the water of your aquarium, will help a LOT to maintain more consistent/stable water chemistry conditions in the tank - making everyone a bit happier.
 
#11 ·
...Buffering and raising the PH of aquarium water can get expensive over time using aquarium-specific products. This DIY ‘recipe’ may help save you some coin..
A different perspective...

IMO these DIY buffer recipes tend to dissuade casual hobbyists because there is trial and error involved in getting the dosage right. Furthermore, it's a great deal of fuss to save trivial amounts of money. For example, SeaChem Tanganyika Buffer is ~$25 for 1kg of Buffer, which is sufficient to raise the pH of 4000 gallons of water to pH9. That works out to about 60 cents for 100 gallons of water, or $1.20 per month to do weekly 50% water changes on a 100 gallon tank. For my ~1000 gallon fish room, that's a $12 per month expense, which is considerably less what my fish room requires in electricity, and far less than the monthly cost of fish food. With thousands of dollars invested in fishes and equipment, this strikes me as penny wise; pound foolish.
 
#16 ·
Hi Keith,

Along with Kiriza I asked for NEOLAMPROLOGUS SEXFASCIATUS GOLD, which reached as dead (4 pieces). I sent picture and asked the vendor, and he sent again yesterday.

And again all 4 are dead. I am very upset and don't understand why it's happening. Seller also saying he don't have any idea why it's happening. He asked me he will send again and I said ok. But I afraid what will happen if he send again !!

Can you give me some light in this matter !!

Thanks in advance.
 
#17 ·
Hi Keith,

Along with Kiriza I asked for NEOLAMPROLOGUS SEXFASCIATUS GOLD, which reached as dead (4 pieces). I sent picture and asked the vendor, and he sent again yesterday.

And again all 4 are dead. I am very upset and don't understand why it's happening. Seller also saying he don't have any idea why it's happening. He asked me he will send again and I said ok. But I afraid what will happen if he send again !!

Can you give me some light in this matter !!

Thanks in advance.
how is he shipping/packing the fish to you? Two shipments and both are dead? Never have I experienced this, sure 1 fish but not the entire shipment. If he is putting them in one bag ask to bag them separately. I hope this has helped!