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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I wanted to show you my proyect and I'm, really new to sump filtration, any help will be really appreciated

Does it look good? Will you change anything

Please comments

Thanks :)
 

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This looks really awesome! I saw that nobody commented on your post yet. Do you have specific questions? I have very unspecific opinions....

I like what I see so far. I personally don't like stone or ceramic for biological filtration. I find that no matter what people say, the water will not flow through the media, so the only useable surface area is on the outside of it, and not the tiny holes all through the middle. This limits your biological filtration, and the end result is cloudy water and sick fish, even though you are doing everything right. My sump is full (literally full, I don't think I have room for any more in there) of 30 PPI Poret Foam, and it's cheaper cousin, the 30ppi Aquaneat foam. I also have Matala mat in there to hold everything up.

I have never used the Hygger aquarium pump. I have only used Simplicity DC pumps. I find that AC pumps are slightly more noisy than DC. Also, in doing a detailed review (no apologies, detailed reviews are my job), I see that the pump you're asking about is huge. I'm guessing it will run at about half capacity considering head-loss, so you'll be putting about 10x water flow in your tank. What kind of fish are you going to put in there? Many would tell you that this is too much flow for many central and south American cichlids. DC pumps can usually be turned out, but AC really can't. Limiting flow on an AC pump can have a big effect on it's motor life if you turn the flow down with a valve.

On the front of the sump, where the water comes in, it looks like you have "glass" and then foam under it. Are you building a trickle tower here, or is this for socks? If it's for a trickle tower, it looks like the water level in the sump might be too high. The level is set by the last wall after the lava rocks, so you'd have to move this wall down lower than the other two to get some air space in the trickle tower, but this limit the biological media capacity after it, and I wouldn't do it.

Lastly, that tank looks awesome! Did you build it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok Thanks for the help, My Return Pump has a controller to adjust the flow speed, i build the tank with a friend of mine, there will be no socks where the water comes in the sump from the main tank, he told me i dont really need it, in the first chamber i will place foam, second ceramic squares i bought, third Chamber maybe Lava rock and stick some Seachem Purigen and Seachem RENEW, any thoughts? And Four Chamber the return pump with the heaters, and 5 Chamber Refugium for FRY and maybe to acclimate fish.

- A friend build my tank and the sump. But im not really sure of the sump, first time using it, im worried like i told you guys before about, when there is no electricity and light go out. Whats wrong with the water i dont wanted all over my room.

- Lighting: DIY Leds blue, white, pink for plants anubias , ferns maybe, and white sand.
 

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Hola otra vez!

I understand your questions. I did a write up on my sump in this thread here if you want to read it:

https://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=454653

Your question is about sump capacity. Here is a good rule of thumb:
Take the total gallons in your display tank divided by the height of the tank. The math looks like this for people who are visual like me:
Display Volume in Gallons/Display tank height = Gallons per inch

your tank is 120 Gallons based on your other post, and it's about 19 inches tall, so = 120/19 = about 6.5 gallons of water per inch.

You should plan that your main display tank will drain about 2 inches of water when you turn off the pump (or if the power goes out). So, in your case, you must make sure that your sump has enough room to drain about 14 gallons (at least - always round up) when you turn off your pump to feed the fish, or if your power goes out.
 
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