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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says, my OB started hiding after a water change and reintroducing another down sulferhead. The sulferhead is doing great, but the OB started hiding a bit, and not coming out to eat as much, and here we are a couple of days later looking like this... He typically controls the tank so this was very odd! As a note, the tank has been up for about a month or so after a 6 week long fishless cycle. My levels are as follows: Ammonia - 0ppm, Nitrite - 0ppm, Nitrate - 20ppm, pH - 7.6-7.8, KH - 4, GH - 10 and Temp - 78. They are all in a 75 gallon. I am pulling him out now to put him in our 20L QT, just unsure what made him look so rough. LFS recommended making sure my KH and GH was correct and stable before treating further. After some reading, KH of 4 seems to be on the lower end but our pH has been stable at 7.6-7.8 since before the cycle and even after, it is that out of our tap as well, worth noting that our tap is KH of 4 and GH of 8. I guess my question is should I be concerned about any buffering? We bought some cichlid lake salt just in case but I don't think it's necessary. Thoughts?

I was going to add some of the cichlid salt to the QT and Stress Guard to help him heal, but any other recommendations? We love this OB and would hate to lose him already, seems to be doing alright, but definitely in rough shape! Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are some better pictures from in the QT... Just added API Stress Coat and Seachem Stress Guard to start. Anything else you recommend? I really have no idea what happened to this poor guy, it was sad that it was the easiest catch I have ever had to do to get a fish from my tank, he just accepted it right away, sad!

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He appears to have been badly beaten up by a tank mate. Keep him in the QT tank until healed but be sure to monitor the QT tank water parameters especially if you don't have a cycled filter on the tank.

No need to use both products at the same time as they do the same thing. Usually clean water with low nitrates and zero ammonia & nitrite will suffice to help him heal.

What are the other tank mates in the 75G tank, both species and quantity of fish?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Appreciate the reply! Good to know about the products, appreciate that feedback. I have had a 20g sponge filter in the main tank running the entire time, I just move that to the QT in order to keep water parameters cycled. He definitely looks beat up, the others have sensed his lack of aggression and started nipping which is why I pulled him. Just unsure why out of nowhere he got like that.

My tank is mostly all-male peacocks with a few extras. I have 9 Peacocks (Light OB, Dark OB, Light Dragonblood, Dark Dragonblood, Red Shoulder, Sunshine, Eureka, Otter Point Jake, and Sulferhead), also have 4 Haps (Red Cap, Otopharynx Tetrastigma, Eastern Hap, and Haplichromis Obliquindens), also have a Rainbow Shark and a Blood Parrot, also, not currently in this tank, but will be once he grows out a bit more, but a blue-eyed BN Pleco is going in as well. There have been no concerns of aggression besides coming from this OB, to be honest, he was the most aggressive for sure always chasing the others, everyone else just had the occasional chase and then leave them alone, been pretty easygoing for the most part.
 

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Good to know you added a cycled sponge filter!

I can't advise on your stocking choices as I don't keep those fish, you could start a new topic in the Malawi forum if you haven't already done so regarding stocking choices. I've seen quite a few posts re: dragonbloods being more aggressive than other peacocks and similar looking fish picking on others that look similar.

Did the problem start when you added the new sulphur head peacock or did you notice him lurking near the surface or behind decor before that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, for sure! Appreciate your help regardless, I can certainly validate stocking choices, it seemed to be OK so far, but I know with cichlids, things can change in an instant! I have also read that OB's and Dragonbloods can be more aggressive, just going to have to keep an eye on them all as I continue this journey. In regard to when it started, the sulferhead was in a similar position but nearly as bad looking. He was quarantined for about a week or so and healed up nicely. I did a roughly 70% water change as it was due and reintroduced him then as well as moved some things around to curb aggression. He went in fine and the next few days seemed as if everything was normal. It was about midweek that I started noticing this OB started hiding in the bottom corner within a fake plant. I left him be as he looked OK just to see if anything would change over the next day or 2 and then he started looking like this.
 

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Yes, definitely start a stocking thread in the Malawi section. It looks like your tank boss lost his position, and that can have dramatic results in an all male tank. The trick is to catch it much sooner than that. With the right stocking and management, it is possible to have your all male Malawi tank with all fins fully intact 95% of the time, with the goal being 100% of the time.
 
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