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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*** only had my tank up for about 5 weeks with fish in for 3, I noticed last night that my yellow tail acei had some black coloring on his tail, left fin, and right behind the left gill. Nothing was on any of the other fish. I do my water change every 4 or 5 days to. I do about 40% when i do them. Today when i got home from work i checked in on him no more has come up on him, but theres a little bit of black right in front of the top fin of my yellow lab.(could of been there but not sure). i did a little research and some ppl have had the same problem and said it could be just a pigmentation problem that will go away or chemical burn of the sort. I also noticed soem brown spots growing on some of the decorations , that seemed to of popped up over night!

So is this a case of black ich or just brown algae growing or what?

P.S. The black spots arent like the little bubble look that ich normally has its more like stains

PH- 8.0, NH3/NH4-0.80ppm, Nitrite-0.50ppm, Nitrate-7.0ppm
 

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The brown spots are probably brown algae common in new tanks. It's starts at about 5 weeks. I just went through this and it clears itself up in about 4-5 weeks. You will probably get a lot more. Just wipe things down to get rid of as much as possible.

Search black spot for the spot on your fish. I have black spots on one of my red zebra and I gave it a bath in methylene blue just to be sure. It made the spots darker. :) I am sure it is just poor breeding at least on mine.
 

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Could also be stress related, what is the tank size/what tankmates does he have?

Also never hurts to check water parameters :)
 

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Okay- wait folks! Please make sure you read the whole post prior to responding.

The OP posted water parameters that clearly show the tank is NOT cycled. The fish is likely reacting to the ammonia and nitrite- which are highly toxic. Please do a large water change immediately (don't forget dechlorinator), and add some salt (table or kosher salt) at 1 tablespoon dissolved per 5 gallons.

If you can, add some filter media from an established tank. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0 ppm, otherwise your fish are being injured. In this case, your water quality has probably affected the fish's ability to fight disease. Do not medicate at this time, however, as the priority is to get your biofilter established.
 

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Your goal right now is to get your tank cycled as quickly as possible without hurting your fish any further. This is not a case of what doesn't kill them makes them stronger. Can you get some filter media from a friend or a local store? I suggest daily water changes sufficient to keep ammonia below 0.5 and nitrite below 0.3; feed very little until those numbers are zero.

In the mean time, have you read the article about cycling? There are products available that are reported to speed the cycle (Dr Tim's, for example) although I haven't tried them myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I got some stuff last night to help cycle my tank quicker it doesnt give much directions for usage while having fish f in the tank. instead of doing the initial tank setup directions(in case it was to much for the fish at once) I followed the weekly directions just to see how theyd react. The stuff I got does say you cant overdose which is a plus! When I get home from work today ill test my water and see where im at. If im still high on my ammonia and nitrites should I do my water change and add more of the cycle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Its actually called cycle its the only thing I could get in the area on the fly. And I could takr the stuff out of my dads pumps but hes due to change his this week would that still help
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
would it help to for the time being to get something like ammo-lock so the ammonia isnt toxic to the fish till i can get it completely cycled?
 

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6burghchamps said:
would it help to for the time being to get something like ammo-lock so the ammonia isnt toxic to the fish till i can get it completely cycled?
No- that will prevent the cycle from being established. You gotta let the ammonia feed the bacteria you are trying to grow, while keeping ammonia low enough not to kill your fish outright.

Nutrafin is the type of product I mentioned, but you'll be able to see how effective it is. Do water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite at 0.5 and .3, respectively. Use the product as directed, as the water changes shouldn't effect it's usefulness.

Take a handful of substrate or gunky filter media immediately from your dad's tank. Every day your fish are exposed to any ammonia or nitrite, they are suffering potential long term damage.

With some luck and bacteria from your dad's tank, you should be through the cycle in a day or two. Then, we can look and see what infections or diseases might pop up. Watch for ich in the mean time though- that's so common with new fish, and the poor water quality will make your fish more likely to get ich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i actually took a plant a big rock and some gravel from his tank and threw it in mine. I read gravel is one of the better sources to get est. bacteria from so im hopin that with the things from his tank and the cycle treatment it will help develop enough bacteria and quick enough that it will start eating away at the ammonia SOON! ill keep up the water changes and keep testing the ammonia and nitrite levels. Thanks for all the help and catching that i actually had a problem hopefully *** caught it soon enough and dont lose any fish!
 

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+1 on not adding the ammo-loc, it will definitely kill any bacteria your tank has established. Keep up with the frequent water changes and hopefully the substrate from your dad's tank will take hold
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok my ammonia has dropped considerably from just over 2ppm to a now 0.50ppm but my nitrites have jumped massively to probably 5.0ppm is this a sign my ammonia is being converted to nitrites and my tank is cycling? or is this a new problem?
 

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It's a good sign (your ammonia to nitrite bacteria are getting established) - but also a sign that you need to do another few water changes to get the nitrites down to 0.3
 
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