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They can’t delay so I will pick up some stress coat and a nitrite/nitrate tester tonight at petsmart. The starter fluid was added yesterday per the instructions. I’m not sure I want to just dump a whole bunch more in there. I have an ammonia kit on the way too.

I can do daily water changes if needed. Not a problem. Those are ten times easier with freshwater tanks and a python vs dealing with saltwater. Been there done that.
Hi!😃
Just for FYI, a uv light will most definitely quicken the situation as you do the other things that really need to be done as well!😃
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I tested ammonia last night and it was at or close to zero.

Before I add the fish late this afternoon I'll test again and also test for nitrites. If I see evidence of a spike then I'll immediately change 25-50% of the water out, re-test, and if levels are knocked down add the fish at that point. Then continue daily monitoring for a while.

Bloom seems to be clearing up a little bit. I added an anubias (possibly frazeri) to the tank yesterday that I picked up at petco. They had no filter media to share with me unfortunately so this was the best I could do and hopefully it added a little bit of helpful bacteria to the water.

I'm aware that the bloom seemingly clearing up a bit is no guarantee of anything really. I'll be forced to daily monitor this for a while and be ready to react if ammonia or nitrite levels spike out of hand.
 

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That all sounds pretrty good. And yeah.... I suspected Petsmart was gonna come up short on this one for you.
Yep, keep checking the Ammonia and Nitrite. And just like you stated - be ready with those water changes to quickly dilute things down in there, if they start getting toxic on you.
And lastly, check also for Nitrates. It's a VERY good sign If you detect any, and the measured levels of that stuff keep going up.
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And just an idea... What are you filtering this aquarium with? Would it be possible to purchase a 10 gallon tank and push another (HOB type?) filter in that little tank - independent of the 75G - with a fishless cycle process? You could then add the separate/cycled HOB filter onto the 75G, if it completes the cycling process (hopefully) before the main tank does....
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I have a couple penguin 350 running with bio-wheels going and they've been up for about a week now.

I've run canister filters in the past but IME a couple HOB that turn the water over often enough are plenty once things get going. At this point we just need to get off the ground.
 

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Hmmmm.....
I have a couple penguin 350 running with bio-wheels going and they've been up for about a week now.
Well, just a thought... but, maybe you could pull one of those Penguin 350's off of the 75G and get it sited on a little 10 gallon aquarium (future quarantine tank?). Then, while you are basically 'babying' and nursing the 75G along to keep your new little Cichlid arrivals alive - you could just SLAM the other HOB mounted on the 10 gallon tank with a LOT of dosed Ammonia. I'm talking pushing 2 - 4 PPM measured levels of Ammonia for the 10G HOB - a lethal dose! That should really speed up the Cycling process along for the 10G mounted HOB at least. And, if you manage to get that one HOB cycled up with a good colony of beneficial bacteria? Your fish will be safe. You'll be home free! (y)
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Oh and.... Bonus!
Once that tank is cycled.... Get rid of the carbon in those cartridge filters. Long-term use of activated carbon/charcoal has been positively linked as a causal agent for HITH/HLLE in Cichlids, plus other problems. For my own aquariums, I only use Activated Carbon/Charcoal as a temporary measure to remove medications out of the water.
 

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This thread makes me think about the old days, before the big-box fish stores even existed, when you could easily obtain a used sponge filter (or some 'glass wool' from an established HOB filter; remember that?) from any LFS. Of course, this whole mess could have been avoided with a bit of foreknowledge. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Well to be fair the quick start and add fish action I took was based in reading around in the net. Thats why I thought fishless cycling was not required any more.

I do miss LFS. They seem to have practically disappeared. :/

I’ll check out the article posted earlier about the penguins and bio media. Thanks
 

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...Well to be fair the quick start and add fish action I took was based in reading around in the net. Thats why I thought fishless cycling was not required any more...
Nothing could be further from the truth. The internet is not subject to quality control, so information and misinformation occur in approximately equal measure. That's why authoritative sources (like books, whether in print or online) are still the gold standards for reliable information, not the hearsay that tends to get posted and reposted ad nauseum online. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
All six arrived alive and are acclimating in the ship bag now. Ammonia and nitrite presently read zero. Water is still cloudy just not as bad as it was early yesterday.
 

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All six arrived alive and are acclimating in the ship bag now. Ammonia and nitrite presently read zero. Water is still cloudy just not as bad as it was early yesterday.
Since you do not currently have anything in the tank, the ammonia and nitrite should be zero. The issue will arise once you get the fish in the tank, and have that constant ammonia releasing going on. Will the tank be able to convert the ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. In my experience it takes around a week or two for the ammonia to nitrite process to kick in. The nitrite to nitrate is longer, somewhere around a month, so somewhere around six weeks total. This is with or without the QuickStart added. The process will take longer doing multiple water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Fishless cycling would have to produce ammonia sooner or later somehow otherwise how would the tank cycle.

Not arguing with you btw. I’m not real surprised values were low to zero when I checked. Thw fish are small which works towards my advantage in this situation. Ill be checking daily for values. Probably will burn through the test chemicals before this is over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Well they made it through the night. Will test the water this afternoon before their first feeding. Wish this bloom would go away but I’m probably stuck with it for a while. I think I’m seeing a film from it starting to coat the rocks and the leaves on the anubias. Kinda gross but not much I can do until things calm down.
 

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Well they made it through the night. Will test the water this afternoon before their first feeding. Wish this bloom would go away but I’m probably stuck with it for a while. I think I’m seeing a film from it starting to coat the rocks and the leaves on the anubias. Kinda gross but not much I can do until things calm down.
Hi!😃
As I've mentioned before uv lights/systems are great for this issue.
I'm glad that your babies are doing fine, this is a blessing!😃
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
There is a couple of those in stock at petco. I thought about it. The cloudiness should clear eventually on it’s own with patience. Never needed one of these before.

That said it would clear up the water quickly no doubt.
 

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Hmmmmm....
The added plants will help!😃
Sorry, that recommendation is only PARTIALLY CORRECT. And in fact, may actually be detrimental to fixing this problem for the OP.
Why? The answer is per the thread link below, and in my quoted response


Plus.... DON'T introduce any aquatic plants to the aquarium, until it is fully cycled. Reason is, the plants are quite greedy with their appetites for Ammonia and Nitrite. Even to the extent that they will keep the beneficial bacteria you need from growing out properly in your biological filtration media. So, once the tank is cycled and the filtration media is properly colonized with the bacteria colony you need - then add those plants and start setting up the tank. That way, if the plants have any problems or setbacks, your biological filtration media will be able to pick up the slack and keep the tank safe for your fish.
So, to get the best results from the OP's live Aquatic Plants AND those now non-cycled HOB filters to help with this problem?
  • Pull one of the non-cycled HOBs off of the 75 gallon tank (as recommended earlier), and place it in a separate tank or tub and just basically SLAM IT with dosed Ammonium Chloride to perform a fishless cycle on it.
  • Add even more live aquatic plants to the 75 gallon tank, as healthy/actively growing plants will actively consume the toxic Ammonia and Nitrite from the water in the still cycling tank to protect the newly introduced Cichlids.
 
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I agree with @Auballagh: the last thing you need right now is more variables in the system. You will need to do water changes frequently, as dictated by your NH4/NO2 test results, but you don't want the plants to compete with the nitrifying bacteria you are trying to establish in the system. Once the tank is fully cycled, it is the nitrifying bacteria, not the plants, that will carry out most of the oxidation of ammonia to nitrate, and unless the plants are thriving, they may actually increase the nitrogen bioload, not decrease it.
 
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