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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well- after about 2.5 months with a 4' 120, I realized that I will never be happy with only a 4' tank.

Here are some photos of the progress. The stand is complete & will be going to a cabinet builder buddy of mine for the doors & to be finished tomorrow. Sump should be done by today.. I will post photos when I get it completed. The 120 is sold, the new owner & I are supposed to to do the swap out next weekend...

Frame:





Stages of adding the floor & the trim:





Trim





Side door for sump access



Opposite end for possible door in the future. Plywood for now is just a placeholder. Stand done.



Adding in electrical & lighting: I found that electrical strip at Lowes. 10 well spaced outlets with room inbetween for DC Xformers, timers, etc. - $24.99



Need a label maker to identify what is being powered. This item alone is awesome. My 120 stand is a rat's nest of cords, hoses, etc..

 

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Looking great so far.

Keep the pics coming.
 

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Looking good Cantrell. I have that same power strip in my fish room and you're right, it is great with the spacing. I've just about used up all of the outlets already!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Man! What a day... I am kinda behind the gun for a changeover next weekend. The buyer of the 120 is supposed to be getting the tank next weekend.

Summary of what was done today:

*Finished the sump assembly, including drilling 6 bulkheads.
*Drilled the overflow & returns for the 180. (4 more bulkheads)
*Completely plumbed the entire return circuit.
*Leaked checked the 180 & the sump.
*Spot checked & finish sanding on the stand. It is going to the cabinet shop in the morning.
*Loaded & covered the stand in the truck.
*Moved the 180 into the garage. Thank God for 2 pieces of 1.5" PVC pipe!
*Yeah, took the time to photograph everything.

Ok. So here is the sump assembly.

Siliconed rests for the drip plate & the bottom egg crate.









Fitting the baffle sections into the 29 gallon sump.



Drilling the glass for the twin 1" bulkhead returns. Post filter socks to the wet-dry





Siliconing the baffles in place.



Enlarging sock inlets from 1" to 1.5" (size of drains from overflow) and installing new bulkheads



Completed sump.





Leak testing - Pass! -- :dancing: -- Bulkhead to link to another 29 is to the left



Next - Drilling the 180! (all went well) :eek: :eek: :eek: I must be nuts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Trial & error will "eventually" start to work in one's favor.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cabinet buddy: "You do realize that all of these 2X4 supports were not necessary?"

Me: "but it is almost 2000 lbs"

Cabinet buddy: "You do realize that all of these 2X4 supports were not necessary?"

Me: "2X4's are a cheap cost for my peace of mind"

:lol:
 

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Yeah, you only get to mess up once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
He is right if you have all of the tools (saws, clamps) to do dado, biscuit, tongue & groove, & dowel joining... That is where the strength is...

I wasn't concerned about compression strength as much as lateral, side to side (swaying) potential...

I would have preferred letting him do it professionally but he had a 3-4 lead time & would have cost $800.00.

I have roughly 400 in materials (including the doors) + his $100 for professionally finishing it & it got done in a week...
 

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sump looks great. a little heavy on the silicone though. lol!
it took me 4 diy sumps before i realized less is better when it comes to silicones.

anyways, do you know if you have enough volume in the sump to handle
power outage? just concern that you may flood the sump and floor when
you turn off the pump.

what are you stocking it with btw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sump looks great. a little heavy on the silicone though
Thanks... Ya think?? :lol:

anyways, do you know if you have enough volume in the sump to handle
power outage? just concern that you may flood the sump and floor when
you turn off the pump.
I was concerned too... I have a "twin" 29 that will be linked to the sump via a 1" bulkhead, filled by a T'd line on the return loop. It can also serve as a time out tank as needed. Bulkhead is set at half depth for normal operation but in the event of a power outage, it would provide an additional 15 gallons of capacity. If it doesn't provide enough spill over volume @ 1/2 full, - I will just leave it empty... My return lines are about 1.5" from the surface so hopefully the siphon will break quickly.

Will test everything prior & adjust...





what are you stocking it with btw
The fish that are in my 120. Mbuna. Labs, Demasoni, Hara, Trewavasae, Johanni & maybe the Albino Socolifi. I may be able to make 6 work. They are all still young.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Drilling the 180

The 1500 GPH overflow will be on one end with twin 3/4" returns on the other. Circulation will be provided by 2 pumps & 1 powerhead (redundancy) - approximately 1300 GPH.

Sizing up the overflow - 1.5" X 2





Bulkheads in-



Putting in the returns-



Leak test- I had water in it for over an hour without a drip. When it is set up, I am using Loc-Line swivel tubing with a 3" flare nozel on the end for surface & subsurface agitation. I a hoping that this setup will keep detritus, etc on one end of the tank.

 

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I am using Loc-Line swivel tubing with a 3" flare nozel on the end for surface & subsurface agitation.
I did the same in mh 180. It's nice to be able to make the quick, easy adjustments.

What I'm realy jealous of is that you can be outside in Feb/Mar working on this stuff. :x
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What I'm realy jealous of is that you can be outside in Feb/Mar working on this stuff
In shorts & a t-shirt no less.. To compound your dismay, it was 80 yesterday!!!

I for one, am loving it. Spring has come really early this year it seems.

Gotta love loc-line...
 

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Great job I can learn something from you keep the progress coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great job I can learn something from you keep the progress coming.
Thanks & maybe so. Lord knows I have perfected wrong... :thumb:
 
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