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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my stand for my fish tank.



This is the sheet to cover the front.



Now i need to know how to fit the doors when i cut them out of the sheet.
*** measured in 4 1/2 inch all the way round the sheet, thats how thick the frame will be then. I also want a 4 1/2 inch frame right down the middle, so i'l cut two doors out and it will be like this.



Hope this makes sence. I think i will run into trouble when i cut the doors out and come to fitting them, where will i hinge them so that they sit flush with the rest of the frame. I dont want them sitting on top, i want them inside meeting the rest of the frame if you get me.
Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Just a thought, but I'm pretty sure you will have to leave a good size gap in-between the door and the side of the stand for them to open and function. You will also want some sort of beam in the middle of the stand so they have some support when you close the doors. Also you won't have much support where the hinges are because if the doors take a hard hit from something in the front the hinges will take the force and could be damaged. All in all it could be done and great build so far!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea i will be putting a block on the middle frame in behind, so when i close the door they sit against them.

I think a 5mm gap would be enough, maybe 3mm.
 

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You won't need too big a gap. What you do is bevel the edge of the door so it does not intefere with the center support when opening or closing. Just a degree or two of bevel is all that is req'd.

We do these cuts often. You could plunge cut from the back side making sure not to over cut and then finish with a jig saw or hand saw. You can find the correct hinges at any decent hardware supply.
 

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fox said:
You won't need too big a gap. What you do is bevel the edge of the door so it does not intefere with the center support when opening or closing. Just a degree or two of bevel is all that is req'd.

We do these cuts often. You could plunge cut from the back side making sure not to over cut and then finish with a jig saw or hand saw. You can find the correct hinges at any decent hardware supply.
Good advice. If you are not familiar with making a plunge cut or blind cut as it used to be called, practice on some scrap and be sure to stand clear of the direction the saw could jump if it binds. Go slow but very steady. Finding someone to teach you this would be smart. I use it to cut oak wine barrels in half.

One possibility is to make the cut and cut out both doors in one piece. That would eliminate the center post. Cut the two doors apart conventionally. Then use a 2 by 4 or 2 by 2 inside that backs up the doors and provides a latch site. I kind of like the push latches if there are no small kids around. No knobs needed.
 

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aaronjunited said:
Yea i will be putting a block on the middle frame in behind, so when i close the door they sit against them.

I think a 5mm gap would be enough, maybe 3mm.
The kerf (thickness) of the saw blade will provide about that much gap.
 

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Yeah, just cut the doors a hair shorter than the inside dimensions of your cabinet.

I will say this, you'll need to take in consideration how your hinges mount. I mounted my doors like you are wanting to, flush inside the cabinet. I cut my door perfectly to fit, but the way my hinges mount, the outside edge of the doors aren't flush with the cabinet there was about a 1/4" gap.. so I had to go back and cut about 1/4" off of each door after I had finished them.
 

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lelandgray said:
Yeah, just cut the doors a hair shorter than the inside dimensions of your cabinet.

I will say this, you'll need to take in consideration how your hinges mount. I mounted my doors like you are wanting to, flush inside the cabinet. I cut my door perfectly to fit, but the way my hinges mount, the outside edge of the doors aren't flush with the cabinet there was about a 1/4" gap.. so I had to go back and cut about 1/4" off of each door after I had finished them.
Yes some hinges have to be recessed into the back of the door, or you can add a quarter inch block on the back of the inside. Some of the push hinges can adjust so you can line the doors up perfectly.
 

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About the only advice I can give is measure twice, cut once! Don't ask me how I know this :lol:
 

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If you're laying the face flat on a pair of sawhorses or even just barely propped off the ground, make sure your back leg is not directly behind the saw, especially if you're using a circular saw (Skillsaw). Blades can and do "grab" the wood and cause the saw to go flying backwards from time to time. You don't want your leg there to catch it.
 

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dielikemoviestars said:
If you're laying the face flat on a pair of sawhorses or even just barely propped off the ground, make sure your back leg is not directly behind the saw, especially if you're using a circular saw (Skillsaw). Blades can and do "grab" the wood and cause the saw to go flying backwards from time to time. You don't want your leg there to catch it.
I usually leave some waste wood on the piece and nail it to the sawhorses through the part I can later saw off, when making a tricky cut. One more warning. Sometimes in plunging the blade this way, sawdust can build up between the guard and the blade. Then when you pull it out, the guard does not snap back over the blade. My Uncle Doug didn't double check and set the saw down. It cut its own power cord into seven pieces before stopping and made an intricate scrolling design on the sub-flooring. I never saw anyone jump and seemingly hang in midair as long as he did.
 

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Through most of my carreer we chocked the guard and it becomes second nature to place the saw upside down when done with it. I've cut a wire or three but never myself.

A power saw will kick back if you try to correct your cut and pull the saw backwards while the blade is spinning causing it to bind. Don't do that , I've seen firsthand the consequences quite a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all these warnings people, very gratefull infact.

I like the way its turned into important stories aswell.

Thanks.
 

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i am making a new stand for my 75 an we are putting doors on it. the way i designed mine was made it stick out or extend out past the door opening by 1/2in all the way arouund an put my hinges on.
its easy i think but i will have pics of it up soon an hopefully a video.
 
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