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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, DIYers :fish:

I hope I didn't do anything stupid with this overflow. Anyone see anything wrong? I copied some of the others I've found on the forum.

I was thinking about gluing some 1.5" flexible PVC to the ball valve and running that to my DIY sump (not done with that).

i can't test this for a while because I'm still saving up for a 125/135 gallon tank



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what about the "flexible PVC" that uses regular PVC glue? anyone know if that's any good?

I saw some barbs at home depot but I didn't see any 1.5" elbow barbs ... or maybe I could get the 1.5" ribbed pool hose, i just wasnt sure how you attach that to the pvc
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
maybe an expert could chime in, but I believe the point of the air inlet is to break the siphon (because if it siphoned all the way down it would drain water too fast). Since the "Wye" fitting is above the lowest part of the U on the inside of the tank then I believe it should maintain a siphon in that part of the unit
 

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I'm curious, haven't tried one yet, Love the pictures :thumb: What's the ball valve for? If you slow it down, you'll flood the tank. Just for "maintenance" reasons? Looks like it should work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well, i dunno what the ball valve is for :D I figured it would be nice to stop the water flow without breaking the siphon? if not, then I wasted $10 :lol:

i can't wait to try this thing out
 

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If you don't have the air inlet side, it will draw air out the other end, along with all the water in the pipes. The middle portion will stay full of water this way, when the water spills in the intake side the level in the pipes will rise and just spill over the "Wye'd" pipe into the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yeah, you're right, that would make the water start rising rapidly in the tank :D

but, i think it would be nice for changing out filter pads? i don't know, i've never had any of this stuff before :p

so, flip the power on the pump off, and then immediately turn the ball valve or something? then ...don't forget to open it before you turn the pump back on of course
 

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You shouldn't even need to touch the ball-valve. The center portion should always be full of water.


Once the level inside the pipes drops to the Wye it will stop going into the sump. Once the level in the tank drops below the inlet pipe, no more water is added and it will also stop going to the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
oh, yeah, i just realized that a second ago. your colored in drawing confirms my moment of enlightenment. i just thought about how it works and now it all makes perfect sense. so basically the ball valve is pretty useless :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
although maybe the ball valve could help make priming the siphon a lot easier...less air to suck out
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok new questions...didn't really want to start a new topic because it relates to this

should I get a Mag Drive 12 (1200 GPH) or Mag Drive 18 (1800 GPH)?
with a 5' head height and 2 elbows and/or a spray bar (haven't figured that part out yet), what do you think the flow rate would be then and could this theoretically handle it? :-?

oh and tank size will be 125 or 135
 

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don't forget an air check valve in the loop going over the tank. If you don't get all the air out you run the risk of it losing siphon once the power is cut. monsterfishkeepers.com in the diy section has some 60 pages on building DIY overflows and different mods.

Craig
 

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There was a link posted here that told how much flow you could get from different diameter standpipes, I can't find it :-?
Just go to MFK and type pvc overflow in the search box, hundreds of results come up :thumb:
I'm still looking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yep, i added the checkvalve in. i think i'll attach it to a powerhead venturi to keep air bubbles out. will post some more pics whenever i get it running on the tank :)

i'm not sure what that drain calculator applies to? I think it applies to standard overflows and I'm betting these siphon types are somewhat less due to the number of elbows leading to more water resistance.
 

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A check valve will malfunction eventually when used with a powerhead venturi. You only want air passing through the check valve. With a powerhead venturi, water will pass through the check valve and it will eventually get clogged. Then when air does build up in the overflow, the siphon breaks, the tank overflows, and someone will be mopping the floor. Believe me, I've tried it.

The powerhead venturi idea does work great without using a check valve. Just remove the check valve and fit the airline tubing right into that hole. You may have to open up the hole a little bit though. That's pretty much what I did and I haven't had any problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hmm, didn't think about that. I guess it's because the checkvalve has a tiny opening.
I don't understand how you get the airline tubing to stay in the hole ? friction fit?

What about using a check valve and one of those "aqua lifter" pumps instead?
 
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