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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I am looking to make a comeback to the Cichlid World. I haven't had a Hap/Peacock tank in about 7 years. Before I had a pretty decent set up I think. Now I am starting all over and looking to possibly run this setup. If you have any better ideas please let me know! Thanks in advance.

Aqueon 125 gallon tank setup
Current Usa Satellite Plus Led 36" x3
Fluval FX6 Main filter for media and bio
AC110 for water polishing and carbon
125lbs of "Cichlid Sand"
50lbs Lace Rock
Eheim Jager 300watt Heater
Eheim Jager 150watt Heater
Hydor Koralia 2950GPH powerhead "surface agitation"

I am looking to house around 18 Males in the Hap/Peacock category, as well as some synidontis cats and a bushy nose pleco.
 

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I have a couple 125's and a couple 150's, an 80, and fourteen 75's plus smaller ones. I could suggest a Mattenfilter at one end of the tank. I don't have enough of these on my tanks. I set them up on the larger tanks to be operated by an FX5 or FX6, but my experience makes me think it would be better if they ran independently. I still have some lace rock. For a natural rock it stacks well but it does collect dirt in crevices. I have replaced most of it with cichlid rocks, artificial hollow rocks designed to create a lightweight stable rock pile. Some live plants like Java fern and Bolbitis fern hold up to most cichlids. Large Siamese algae eaters may be more compatible with your fish since bristlenose plecos stay small and larger plecos tend to peel plants off rock work and tumble the stacks while they are at it. But large SAE's are hard to find. A few male mbuna could be a substitute for other algae eaters. Some kind of micron filter is good to have as maintenance equipment to remove gray or green cloudiness caused by bacteria, single cell algae, or inorganic rock dust. I am used to the Vortex Diatom filter but there are others.
 

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I think what you have sounds good already. May not need the powerhead. Agree on the lace rock...my choice is river rock. That is a LOT of substrate, you may want to limit the depth to one or one and a half inches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When you say "cichlid rocks" what are you referring to? I always liked the lace rock because it was easily stackable, however it did keep debris.
 

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They are manufactured. Google cichlid rocks and you will see some examples.
 

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Charden said:
DJRansome said:
They are manufactured. Google cichlid rocks and you will see some examples.
I did. I am not a big fan of those. Looks too fake to me.
If you don't like the fake look of cichlid rocks, they do naturalize with algae a bit if you are patient. But you'd hate my best ever rock substitute for cichlids. When we had over 200 feet of vinyl fencing installed, they cut off 5 or 6 inches of the 5" white vinyl square posts. They are completely hollow and hardly take up water space. I have to admit they look very clinical, but stacked in the tank, they don't fall down, you can place them so you have no blind spots from your perspective, but the fish all find spots where they can be left alone and out of line of sight from other fish. The typical aggression drops drastically and the fish color up. If you hate the look, you can still put them as the bottom support layer under the pretty rocks and they almost disappear.
 

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The cichlid rocks are basically caves. Except for some of my Tanganyikans that use the caves to protect their eggs, I agree many cichlids especially mouth brooders have little use for caves. The thing about the vinyl fence posts is that they are open both ends and big. They are more of tunnel system or maze and pretty uncavelike. (If that's a word.) If I see my Chalinochromis adults in a cave, I can be pretty sure there are eggs or fry in there. Otherwise they are outside of the caves.
 
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