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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

I just picked up a new 125 gal thats going to be dedicated to tropheus!

I'm psyched :p

I'm planning on getting Moori Ilangi's. I was thinking 40-50 of them. How does that sound?

For filtration I have a XP3 and an FX5. Is that enough?

Im going to be using black sand as the substrate and I'm going to do a DIY background in a rocky type style.

Thoughts, comments, recommendation, and/or advice?

Thanks as always! :D
 

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Congrats, i think 40 is a good number for a 125. In my opinion thats more than enough filtration, but other keepers may have a different opinion. Good luck with the fish.
 

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Hi,

Grats on the setup. I think the FX5 should be enough already, as that would have a turnover rate of over 7 times your tank capacity per hour. But if you already have them both, why not :)
Good luck with your new tropheus, and be sure to post pics!
 

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I think 40-50 is a good number :thumb:

As for the Fx5....the filtration on that thing does not compare to say a wet/dry which I feel that all big tanks should have one when dealing with large groups of Tropheus.

I have a 125g with 37 wc Ilangi's with all their fry.
Pro-clear 400 w/ mag12 return pump
Eheim 2228
Rena Xp3
2x 250gph powerheads with spraybars on them to increase surface agitation.

With this setup I have had great success/results in with my colony of Ilangi's. Also, when I had the black background on the tank with peppered sand the colors on the Ilangi were somewhat dull...after flipping it to the brighter blue side they quickly regained their vibrant yellows and reds.
 

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eklikewhoa said:
I think 40-50 is a good number :thumb:

As for the Fx5....the filtration on that thing does not compare to say a wet/dry which I feel that all big tanks should have one when dealing with large groups of Tropheus.

I have a 125g with 37 wc Ilangi's with all their fry.
Pro-clear 400 w/ mag12 return pump
Eheim 2228
Rena Xp3
2x 250gph powerheads with spraybars on them to increase surface agitation.

With this setup I have had great success/results in with my colony of Ilangi's. Also, when I had the black background on the tank with peppered sand the colors on the Ilangi were somewhat dull...after flipping it to the brighter blue side they quickly regained their vibrant yellows and reds.
I second that..wet/dry is the way to go for a tropheus tank. I have a 125 full of tropheus and they are very messy.

Tekjunky
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would do a wet/dry if I could, but the tank isnt "reef ready" aka its not drilled. So I'm going to have to go with the FX5 and the XP3.

Do you think I should have more filtration than that? The FX5 is a beast in itself.

I already have the FX5 and XP3. Other than that...any other recommendations?

Thanks for all of the input everybody! 8)
 

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I always like the idea of running two filters. This way you could clean out one filter and still have the other that can support a tank of this size with no issue.

I have (2) FX5's and they really are not that good. The larger Eheim 2260 and 2262 completely blow them away in filtration ability and in media space.

The FX5 pump is on the bottom of the canister. Be very careful in using a sand substrate with this filter. The substrate gets into the filter and settles down in the bottom, where it can wear out the pump impeller and rotor assembly. I'd personally stay away from the FX5 and get a larger Eheim.

On my 125 I have 24 Ujiji and their about 20 1" fry. On this tank I run (2) Rena XP4's and perrform bi-weekly 50-70% waterchanges, and I have had no issues in the tank. I clean out one of the filters per month. I have been running this setup since May 2006. Originally, the tank was setup with (2) XP3's and a powerhead. The (2) XP4's are really nice, easy to maintain, and look nice in the tank.

Even though, I like the Rena Filstar Series, the Eheim 2260 or 2262 blow them away too.

What I would like to suggest to you, is make sure you pack the XP3 with as much bio-media as possible. The FX5 is very limited for biological filtration, even though the large surface area of the FOAMS are supposed to supplment bio-filtration, they are marginal at best because it is also your primary mechanical filter which gets dirty PDQ. You might want to consider using the FX5 for more of a mechanical/chemical filter and use the XP3 to carry as much bio-load as possible.

The FX5 and the XP3 is enough filtration for 40 Ilangi in a 125 gallon. I would not put more than 40.

I have seen better pictures of Ilangi when the background was brighter, not darker. The fish show better color, infact the best I ever saw was on this site, when the guy in Germany had a golden yellow background and the fish were amazing in color. You might search for that and make your own opinon.

Take care,

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
geoff_tropheus said:
I always like the idea of running two filters. This way you could clean out one filter and still have the other that can support a tank of this size with no issue.

I have (2) FX5's and they really are not that good. The larger Eheim 2260 and 2262 completely blow them away in filtration ability and in media space.

The FX5 pump is on the bottom of the canister. Be very careful in using a sand substrate with this filter. The substrate gets into the filter and settles down in the bottom, where it can wear out the pump impeller and rotor assembly. I'd personally stay away from the FX5 and get a larger Eheim.

On my 125 I have 24 Ujiji and their about 20 1" fry. On this tank I run (2) Rena XP4's and perrform bi-weekly 50-70% waterchanges, and I have had no issues in the tank. I clean out one of the filters per month. I have been running this setup since May 2006. Originally, the tank was setup with (2) XP3's and a powerhead. The (2) XP4's are really nice, easy to maintain, and look nice in the tank.

Even though, I like the Rena Filstar Series, the Eheim 2260 or 2262 blow them away too.

What I would like to suggest to you, is make sure you pack the XP3 with as much bio-media as possible. The FX5 is very limited for biological filtration, even though the large surface area of the FOAMS are supposed to supplment bio-filtration, they are marginal at best because it is also your primary mechanical filter which gets dirty PDQ. You might want to consider using the FX5 for more of a mechanical/chemical filter and use the XP3 to carry as much bio-load as possible.

The FX5 and the XP3 is enough filtration for 40 Ilangi in a 125 gallon. I would not put more than 40.

I have seen better pictures of Ilangi when the background was brighter, not darker. The fish show better color, infact the best I ever saw was on this site, when the guy in Germany had a golden yellow background and the fish were amazing in color. You might search for that and make your own opinon.

Take care,

Geoff
Well, I already have the FX5 and the XP3 so Im kinda S.O.L. on using a different filter, but I will take your suggestion and put as much biomedia in the XP3 as I can. What would you suggest to use for it? I was thinking pot scrubbers? I have a **** load of quilt batting, should I just stuff the FX5 full of that stuff and then rotate the media baskets once a month by changing out the quilt batting in the bottom basket with new quilt batting and move it to the top of the stack?

What do you think about the flow Geoff? Do you think that is enough flow? Should I add another pump to the tank?

Is the Germany guy's background in the my tank section?

As always, thankyou to everybody for your input!
 

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stslimited84,

The FX5 flows 607 gph with the mechanical foams installed. The XP3 listed flowrate is 350gph and does not say wether it is with or without media.

This total filtration flowrate is 957 gph, which makes 7.65 turnover rate. This is enough with a solid regime of weekly 30-50% or bi-weekly 50-75% waterchanges. I would run the canister suctions in each corner of the tank about 2-3" from each corner. Then put the discharge outlets equal distance between the centerbrace and the suction intake.

I have never used quilt batting as a biomedia, but potscrubbers do well also. If you looking more at the DIY media, I have seen lots of people using lava rock and packing peanuts. Just make sure everything is really washed well.

I packed my FX5's baskets like this. Top and Middle basket has Eheim Substrat inside media bags because it can fall thru the holes, and the bottom basket has 4 Bags of Chempure.

MY XP3's and XP4's are packed in the bottom basket the 4 pieces of the 30ppi foam, then the middle baskets are packed with ceramic rings which in over 2 years serivce I have never replaced nor intend too, and the top basket is 2 bags Chempure and the fine filtration pad or filter floss.

DIY media can save you money, it is just difficult to say how effective it really is or not. The Quilt Batting I think would do just fine or even the blue-bonded pads in the baskets of the FX5. Just remember what ever FINE media you put into the FX5 goes into the bottom basket, which can make it a more of a pain for cleaning. Other canisters you know, the fine media is in the top which makes it a lot easier to replace.

I will spend some time and try to search for that photo and post a link here. I was posted last year sometime in this forum. Just not sure, where exactly.

Best of Luck!

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was thinking of doing atleast one of the returns as a spray bar. Thoughts on that? I was also planning on doing a fiberglass background. The background comes out lighter in color, so it should promote good coloration within the colony.

Substrate is going to be black sand :)
 

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Going on from what Ek said, I think your Ilangi will take on a darker colouring if you use black substrate.

Have fun with your tank :).

Jamie.
 

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Going on from what Ek said, I think your Ilangi will take on a darker colouring if you use black substrate.

Have fun with your tank :).

Jamie.
 

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I would probably leave the 30ppi foam in the xp3's bottom tray and fill the other 2 with eheim ehfisubstrat pro.....have it so that it is mainly bio like geoff stated.

Also with the wet/dry issue....none of my tanks are RR and I kinda prefer it that way. For my tanks I use HOB overflows which IMO are not as problematic as everyone states they are and I even have one that has been in use for 14yrs without a single break in siphon.

I am sure you can get by with less but seeing how things build up in my tank with the turnover rate I have along with twice weekly 50% water changes I could not go with less filtration.
 

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Hey guys whats the price of WC Ilangi in the states? Here its about double the price of moops.
£32 rather tha £16. Does anyone know why they are so pricy?
 

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In case you should miss my other post here is a link to the thread that has those photos of the yellow background.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=148814

24T,

Ilangi run about $15-20 more a fish over most other Tropheus. It is set at that price because of demand, and somewhat rare find in the lake. Most of the demand is generated in the fish mostly from the Konnings photos, but they are indeed a beautiful fish.

I think they are far from the best looking Tropheus, but that is only matter of opinion.

Take care,

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, I guess the majority opinion is that if I use the black sand it will hinder the coloration of the colony. That kinda sux since I have almost 400 lbs of it. Guess I'll just save that for my dream tank when I get a house.

On that note, what sand should I get for the Troph's? I'm looking for something that isnt too pricey, but will do the job of bringing out good coloration.

What should I get?

Also, anybody have thoughts on my spray bar idea?

I really appreciate the help. This is going to be my first time with troph's and I really want to do it right!

I'm getting a two week supply of food from the supplier for the trophs when they come. Also, I've read that it is best to have some medication on hand, (which hopefully will never be need). What is the medication?

Thanks everybody! 8)
 

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The Medication you want on hand is CLOUT - 100 tabs count bottle. You can get it from Dr.Foster and SMith for about $18 a bottle.

The spray bar works fine for the XP3, the FX5 does not come with a spray bar. Are you looking to make one? If so, I think it would work fine.

Cheap sand...the best cheap sand I know a number of people use is Pool Filter Sand that you can get at Walmart or some Pool Supply House for about $8 per 50lb bag of it.

In a 125 gallon aquarium, dimensions are 6ft x 18 in, if you want a 1" deep sand bed, which I would not go much deeper than that, you will need about 2-50lb bags. 2-50lb bags, will give you 1.5" of coverage.

You could always use the Black Sand, then if you found that you did not like it, then change it. You may find you like it anyway..but I have to agree with most others, that Ilangi will look better on light substrate and light backgrounds.

Hope this helps...

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was planning on making a pvc spray bar for the filters. Maybe one in the front aim downward to create a flow moving the water front to back across the bottom of the tank, and I hadnt decided where to place the second spray bar if I used two of them.

Is pool filter sand silica sand? If so, doesnt it have problems with algae growth, or am I thinking of something different?

Also, for heating I was thinking of using a 500 watt titanium heater with a temp. controller to prevent any problems if the heater malfunctions for some reason. For example:

http://www.championlighting.com/product ... 668&page=1
 

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I would not want to put any spray bar in the front, it in my opinion, would obstruct viewing area. With those kinds of fish, you would not want to do that.

The Leslie's Pool Filter sand is a light tan color, failry uniform grain size, and I am pretty sure it is a quartz, which would make it silica based. I have not heard from anyone having those issues with algae caused by the sand. I do know a large number of people that use that sand.

For heaters, be sure to buy the best you can afford and feel comfortable with. I have been using Marinelands Visi-Therm Stealth heaters, and have not had any issues with them in 2 years of operation. They have been keeping the water temperature almost exactly at the set point. They do a good job. I have never used the one in your link, to know its quality.

Take care,

Geoff
 
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