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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy of mine is moving soon and is giving me his stand that he started to build for his 75g. I was planning on starting one anyhow, but when I seen it just has the upright boards on either side and nothing in the center. They are made of 2x6's tho rather than the normal 2x4s.

The two upright peices and the top "ring" that the tank sits on is 2x6s and the bottom ring is 2x4s. Also the bottom is covered with 5/8 plywood as the floor of the stand. The top peice sits on top of the upright peices.



If it isnt needed I would like to keep the big opening in the front to keep easy access in and out of the storage area.
 

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I would say totally safe. The lack of middle support is not a big thing as the tank can actually support itself on just four corners. The odds of the horizontal 2X6 warping enough to hurt on such a short length is small. Is there a back to keep the stand from "racking"? By racking, I mean when the whole thing goes down by the uprights all bending over. A board on the back or front to stop this would be my only question. It may not need it but I can't see well enough to tell.
 

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It looks sturdy to me. I would frame up the underside of the top to 16" on center and call it a day. You should be fine. If you want to add support I would frame it up like I said above and your piece closest to center I would add a brace maybe a 2x4. 8) This way you have a 5th point of contact and not have to worry about losing too much space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah this is just the start. I am gonna cover it in 3/8 oak plywood n make doors for it yet. This is just the frame o am getting to start with. Thanks guys for the peace of mind. No more trying to get everything in n out the tiny opening on this store made stand for me!
 

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Covered in 3/8 plywood, there is no problem. I like to use some type of wood glue between the plywood and the frame so that I can use fewer fasteners that might show and the glue will hold in this use when fasteners might fail. No question about it being secure when the plywood is added. That for sure means the top 2X6 can't go anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PfunMo said:
Covered in 3/8 plywood, there is no problem. I like to use some type of wood glue between the plywood and the frame so that I can use fewer fasteners that might show and the glue will hold in this use when fasteners might fail. No question about it being secure when the plywood is added. That for sure means the top 2X6 can't go anywhere.
Thanks, was just gonna ask how any of you guys hid your fastners. Would you trust glue itself to hold on the sheeting? I am trying to do this on the el cheapo as I dont have much money and since I am gonna be painting my living room soon I wanna be able to have this ready to go when its time to move the tank out from the wall.
 

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I counter sink all screws and fill with glue . Sand and paint. Unless your going natural you need to build it a little different or get those wood colored round stickers to put over your holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah after reading some other threads on diy stands and what not, I think I am gonna make it black as it would be easier to do that then to make the woodgrain match the grain that is on the tank trim. I am gonna look into whether it will be cheaper to use plywood to cover it or if just pine boards would be a cheaper alternative.

Few questions for you guys.

1. Does any one have any photos of a black stand with an oak trimmed tank on it to see what it would look like or if I should paint the trim on the tank black as well.

2. If I do go with plywood would 1/4 inch be thick enough to sheet it with or would it be necessary to go with something that is a little thicker to keep it from buckling or "racking" over to one side or the other?

3. I have a brad nailer, would that be enough to attach the plywood/boards on the outside if I glue it as well or would you think that screws would be the way to go?

4. What do you recommend for sealing the inside of the stand incase any splashed water gets down there from my fry tank? Would Thompson Water Sealer or some other sealer be sufficient?

Thanks in advance. Not gonna get super fancy but would like this to hold up for a while and still look somewhat decent as it will be in plain view in our living room.
 

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1. I would paint the trim black(krylon fusion). (I'm a black on black fan) 8)
2.I would go 3/8 its a little thicker and easier then 1/2 or 3/4
3.if you go plywood I would use screws. I never use nails they always tend to slip and I would glue.
4.if you are going to paint I would use latex if not water sealer is fine.

Don't forget your net hangers. I built a stand and forgot to put them on. Not a hard fix but I like to conceal as much as possible. Oh and a spot for your power strips/drip loops :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Flippercon said:
Don't forget your net hangers. I built a stand and forgot to put them on. Not a hard fix but I like to conceal as much as possible. Oh and a spot for your power strips/drip loops .
Thanks Flipper! Didnt even think about that. Now should I just make a spot to hang power strips or should I wire in some outlets and switches that has a cord that can just be plugged in to power it all? Hmm.....I think I have all the stuff laying around minus a couple junction boxes so I might have to do that. Sure would be nice to be organized for once! :D
 

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If you got the stuff I would , I have built so many things and once I'm done I see things I should of did :?
Go all out ! :thumb:
 

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How are you set up for clamping while glue dries? With some scrap wood to put between the plywood and the clamp, that is a super way to avoid almost all fasteners. Elmer's carpenters glue is the choice for me but it does take a bit to set. Clamping the stuff gets the glue really spread around and gives it a chance to really get into the grain of the wood so that they are practically one piece when done. If you try to tear down a glue joint, you find the plywood tears apart before the glue joint lots of times. With a good glue joint, no fasteners are needed except to hold the stuff together while it sets up. i go with really cheap power strips and find they work. I'm never certain where and what I'm going to have under the stand and the power strips can be moved around to suit better than fixed boxes. I also find them handy to hit a single switch to turn off heater and filter during work rather than unplugging. I usually hang it on a screw just inside the door where I can reach the switch easy. My light, I like to run off a timer plugged into the wall where it is away from the other activity so it doesn't get turned off or bumped out and wind up needing reset. I find paint on the trim knocks off pretty easy but I do it anyway. Better might be to add a trim board to hide the brown???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The trim idea is what I was thinking too but I will not have canopy on this tank so the oak woodgrain trim on the top of the tank will still be exposed. Thinking that a black stand w a woodgrain trim tank wouldnt look too bad.

I dont have another tank big enough to house my fish while i paint the trim either.

Is there any way to safely paint the trim of the tank while in use?
 

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I would just plastic bag and tape the you know what out of it. Get plenty of ventilation through the house fans ,Windows whatever works.Then I would paint. Just be satisfied with your tape job. Prep the area very well so the tape forms a good bond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wonder how it would look if I use little sponge trim roller I have to do it. That would eliminate the overspray factor and then I would just have to seal off the top really well like you said and should be able to remove the tape and bag shortly after painting.

Prob gonna try and see how it looks without painting it first so I dont have to jeopardize the fish if I dont have too.
 

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Oh go to your local auto parts store and look for black out tape. I used it to cover the Chrome on my cars. It's vinyl and pretty cheap. That should do the trick. :thumb:
 

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A little tip when using glue. Carpenter's glue is not waterproof. It is a poor choice for anything around moisture. Weldbond, which looks and smells like other white glues is waterproof. Latex paint would also be a poor choice for a stand.
As far as the stand in question goes, you could easily set a car on it. A single vertical 2 x 4 can carry about 25,000lbs, if you can keep it from flexing. That isn't an issue on those short pieces. A 2 x 6 is overkill for a 48" span.
 

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I would be slow to try painting with fish in the tank. It takes very little paint to do them in, I'm afraid. Just one little mistaken flip of the brush might cause you lots of grief. I think I might just look at the brown for my money.
 

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My take on a couple of your questions: by all means use the brad nailer to attach the plywood. Brads should penetrate at least 2x the material thickness into the wood. So for 1/4 inch ply use 3/4 inch brads minimum. The brads hold the plywood in place till the glue sets, after that all fasteners are pretty much redundant. With a good quality polyvinyl acetate glue (white glue) the bond is stronger than the wood surrounding it.

1/4 inch ply is ok, but your doors will be very flimsy. It's not a lot more $ to go with the 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Since you are painting it you can save money by going to a cheaper plywood, like G1S fir or pine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well finally went and picked up that stand frame out of my buddies storage unit. Instead on there being 2x6 risers (legs) which I though there is 3 - 2x4's in each corner. Guess he didnt want it to go anywhere lol. The back already has a a sheet of 3/8 on it with a few holes for cords already in it and there is the "floor" already in it. So all I need to get is a sheet of whatever I want to use to cover the sides and around the doors on the front, make some doors for it, and paint.

:fish: :fish: :fish: :thumb:

Hopefully I can scrounge up the money to get that last few things I need early this week and get it finished!
 
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