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What temperature would you consider as safe to the fish if you were topping up 20% of water into the current temperature of around 25.5 degrees I used to just put in cold water but I do not want to do that
Heaters fail and cook the fish. Two heaters with smaller wattage minimizes this risk.Cichlid_beast123 said:IDK what HMA is. Some want to let cold water come to room temp. It was more popular before the days of chloramines in tap water...you could also agitate to remove chlorine back then. I don't see the advantage of having a tank to fill and take up space.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q1)Why do some people have a static water storage system and don't go by the tap direct this seems popular with the people who use a HMA
Why use any?Cichlid_beast123 said:Q2) i can just use 1 water butt
I clean my canister when the flow decreases or every 3 months, whichever comes soonerCichlid_beast123 said:Q3) how often do you clean out your fx6,5 or similar filter and whats recommended to encourage breeding
Never. Sponges are bio too, as well as mechanical.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q4) how long do you change the sponges in the Canister
For a hang-on-back filter, you can rinse a couple times, but the cartridges can wear out pretty quickly. I buy hang-on-back with sponges and media...no cartridge.Cichlid_beast123 said:the flat black ones someone told me once a month for 1 of them the flat one?? when you change that media its recommended you do 50% at a time
More filtration does not break down anything faster. It just sucks up more debris from your substrate and sweeps it into the filter. Dirt is still there, just not visible.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q5 wil it will only breakdown everything alot faster right its a 450 rio 400 tank
Cichlid_beast123 said:Q6) why do people have 2 heaters and is there a benefit of me having 2 running as well?
Thank you very much!! somebody told me to replace the round circle ones with the JBL below once every 3 months for example because they collect a lot of particles what do you think about thatDJRansome said:Heaters fail and cook the fish. Two heaters with smaller wattage minimizes this risk.Cichlid_beast123 said:IDK what HMA is. Some want to let cold water come to room temp. It was more popular before the days of chloramines in tap water...you could also agitate to remove chlorine back then. I don't see the advantage of having a tank to fill and take up space.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q1)Why do some people have a static water storage system and don't go by the tap direct this seems popular with the people who use a HMA
Why use any?Cichlid_beast123 said:Q2) i can just use 1 water butt
I clean my canister when the flow decreases or every 3 months, whichever comes soonerCichlid_beast123 said:Q3) how often do you clean out your fx6,5 or similar filter and whats recommended to encourage breeding
Never. Sponges are bio too, as well as mechanical.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q4) how long do you change the sponges in the Canister
For a hang-on-back filter, you can rinse a couple times, but the cartridges can wear out pretty quickly. I buy hang-on-back with sponges and media...no cartridge.Cichlid_beast123 said:the flat black ones someone told me once a month for 1 of them the flat one?? when you change that media its recommended you do 50% at a time
More filtration does not break down anything faster. It just sucks up more debris from your substrate and sweeps it into the filter. Dirt is still there, just not visible.Cichlid_beast123 said:Q5 wil it will only breakdown everything alot faster right its a 450 rio 400 tank
Cichlid_beast123 said:Q6) why do people have 2 heaters and is there a benefit of me having 2 running as well?
Ok this is a very important piece of information can we talk about this so you actually saying 50% of water which is in my case about 212.5 l of water it appears that the nitrates are the keyOld Newbie said:Concerning part of question 2- "really want them to breed and i want to water change as much as weekly 20%."
If you really want them to do well and possibly breed you will need to change more than 20% of your water weekly or your Nitrates will continue to increase to the point your fish will suffer. If your Nitrates are at say 20ppm and you change 20% it will drop the Nitrates to 16ppm; if they then go up by 20ppm the next week you will be at 36 ppm and a 20% change will drop them to about 29ppm, and so on to the point where the Nitrates become intolerable to the fish. At least 50% water change is recommended.
The bacteria are not in the water, they are in and on everything else in the tank, including the glass of the tank, decorations, inside of hoses, filter media etc. Many discus breeders will change 100% of water multiple times a week, sometimes daily. I change 50% of the water in all 3 of my tanks weekly, using the pythons it takes about 70 minutes to complete the changes in the 125 and 180 (60 gals and 90 gals respectively - or for you approx 220 and 330l. I drain both tanks concurrently, then when the 125 is at 50%, start filling. When the 125 is filled, then the 180 has sufficiently drained, and the hose is connected to that tank.Cichlid_beast123 said:Ok this is a very important piece of information can we talk about this so you actually saying 50% of water which is in my case about 212.5 l of water it appears that the nitrates are the keyOld Newbie said:Concerning part of question 2- "really want them to breed and i want to water change as much as weekly 20%."
If you really want them to do well and possibly breed you will need to change more than 20% of your water weekly or your Nitrates will continue to increase to the point your fish will suffer. If your Nitrates are at say 20ppm and you change 20% it will drop the Nitrates to 16ppm; if they then go up by 20ppm the next week you will be at 36 ppm and a 20% change will drop them to about 29ppm, and so on to the point where the Nitrates become intolerable to the fish. At least 50% water change is recommended.
I'm rather confused as some people are saying 25% 20% every two weeks however I'm prepared to do 50% a week if I need to encourage breeding and keep the optimum conditions I'm also confused as some people say don't do 50% as you will get rid of the valuable bacteria I think the answer that you gave me or 50% has opened up a can of worms let's discuss this a bit more please tell me what everyone thinks about 50% water changes for what I'm trying to achieve
Thank you very informative so 50% of water change is absolutely finenodima said:The bacteria are not in the water, they are in and on everything else in the tank, including the glass of the tank, decorations, inside of hoses, filter media etc. Many discus breeders will change 100% of water multiple times a week, sometimes daily. I change 50% of the water in all 3 of my tanks weekly, using the pythons it takes about 70 minutes to complete the changes in the 125 and 180 (60 gals and 90 gals respectively - or for you approx 220 and 330l. I drain both tanks concurrently, then when the 125 is at 50%, start filling. When the 125 is filled, then the 180 has sufficiently drained, and the hose is connected to that tank.Cichlid_beast123 said:Ok this is a very important piece of information can we talk about this so you actually saying 50% of water which is in my case about 212.5 l of water it appears that the nitrates are the keyOld Newbie said:Concerning part of question 2- "really want them to breed and i want to water change as much as weekly 20%."
If you really want them to do well and possibly breed you will need to change more than 20% of your water weekly or your Nitrates will continue to increase to the point your fish will suffer. If your Nitrates are at say 20ppm and you change 20% it will drop the Nitrates to 16ppm; if they then go up by 20ppm the next week you will be at 36 ppm and a 20% change will drop them to about 29ppm, and so on to the point where the Nitrates become intolerable to the fish. At least 50% water change is recommended.
I'm rather confused as some people are saying 25% 20% every two weeks however I'm prepared to do 50% a week if I need to encourage breeding and keep the optimum conditions I'm also confused as some people say don't do 50% as you will get rid of the valuable bacteria I think the answer that you gave me or 50% has opened up a can of worms let's discuss this a bit more please tell me what everyone thinks about 50% water changes for what I'm trying to achieve
Think of measuring Nitrates as a proxy for all the other dissolved solids that occur in a tank. Many of these are not measurable, or are only measurable with scientific grade equipment. Keeping a good water change routine and managing the nitrates in the tank, will serve the fish (and you) well.
I almost never replace filter foam, simply rinse it out regularly, and replace it.