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You can add non-iodized salt to the water, which will kill the free swimming larvae that may erupt from the substrate (encysted stage) to attack your fish. The free swimming stage of the Ich life cycle, is is the only time it is vulnerable to treatment.
- Add a concentration of 1 Tbsp of salt per 2 gallons of water to the aquarium. Maintain the salt treatment for at least a period of 12 - 14 consecutive days. If water changes are conducted during the treatment period, continue to add salt to the re-fill water to maintain the salt concentration,
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And depending on the species, this salt treatment could be a little hard on some aquatic plants if you have them in your aquarium(s). I agree though, that is better to be safe with your fish and ensure the Ich outbreak doesn't spread any further!
 

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Non-iodized table salt is also NaCl, but will sometimes have trace amounts of additives and anti-caking agents added such as calcium silicate, silicon dioxide or magnesium carbonate, which are completely harmless to your fish. The API aquarium salt is not designed to be dispensed for eating purposes (salt shaker), so is more pure in composition.
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I've always just used Non-Iodized Morton Table Salt for these things, because well, I'm Cheap, and have never had any problems with that product killing anything other than the Ich. Salt will act as a WMD (Weapon of Mass Destruction) against water-borne fungus and free swimming parasitic pathogens, as well.
Safe and hugely effective against all kinds of nasty stuff that want to eat our fish, it really should be one of the first things utilized in any freshwater treatment arsenal. ;)
 
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