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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently (yesterday) setup my new 75gal and put 2 - 100ml bags of purigen in the top tray of my Eheim 2075. Says that each 100ml bag will treat 100 gal of water for a few months. My concern is that these bags are only about 2 inches by 4 inches so am thinking that the water will flow right around them and not through them like I want. Do you think that I should get more when I can and put it into a larger filter bag that would cover the entire tray in filter or think what I have will work? I am trying to be patient but have read multiple cases of people putting this in and then waking up to crystal clear water, and mine still seems to have this cloudiness to it that seems to be getting better slowly.

I would say the 2 bags take up about 2/3 of the trays surface so there is still some significant room for the water to flow around it.
 

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Seems like you already figured it out for yourself. :thumb: You have two options, wait it out, or add more. I'm thinking about making the move to use purigen myself. Was also trying to figure out how to maximize it's use.
 

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No. Purigen is supposed to remove impurities in the water, the nitrogen cycle converts ammonia->nitrite->nitrate. Nitrates can only be removed by water changes. Purigen, AFAIK, is chemical filtration, similar to using carbon to remove impurities. The advantage to Purigen is you can recharge it with household chemicals (i.e. bleach) whereas carbon cannot be recharged in the average household.

Reading a little more about it, Purigen, "...controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds."

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... rigen.html
 

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It's ok if there's some bypass in the filter, but it'll work faster if there isn't any.

I've only recently read up about purigen. For those that have used it, what is the advantage of using this. Won't the nitrogen cycle take care of all the things that purigen says it does?
Purigen removes dissolved organics, so the nitrogen cycle doesn't need to break them down. It's effectiveness will depend on how much is used and the level of dissolved organics in the water. I'm not sure how what it does translates into clearer water unless by removing the organics, it removes the yellow tint sometimes caused by them. It does not remove solids that are visible in the water column. Water changes will remove dissolved organics also and make the tank water look more clear, at least they always do for me. Water changes also remove dissolved organics. I guess Purigen can be seen as a water change helper. Think of Purigen as a chemical protein skimmer.
 

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rgr4475 said:
What impurities? I'm playing devil's advocate here, not trying to be a jerk. How does Purigen benefit an established tank such as mine?
If you do adequate water changes and filter cleanings, substrate vacuuming, etc, then it may be of little benefit, and certainly isn't needed. It'll remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and any other dissolved organics, whatever they might be. Seachem calls them 'impurities'. The idea is that if the ammonia and nitrite are removed, then they don't become nitrate. If obviously won't remove all of any of those things. If water is cloudy from excess organics, then there are other ways to deal with that. If I was in a position of not being able to do regular water changes, then setting up a filter full of this stuff would help. Otherwise, I'd do the water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah I do all my Freq WC's, just am trying to get that crystal clear water look that I hear so much about from this stuff. It really bothers me when I sit here and look at the tank and can see that cloudiness in the water. All my parameters are good including nitrates under 10ppm its just that whole cloudiness that bugs me. Will be updating if I see any improvements. Have taken some photos of the tank now, and will be taking some every day or every other day to use for comparison.
 

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Some have had succes with UV. Depends on what the cloudiness is being caused by. Give the Purigen a chance first, I guess, since you have it. I have a tank that's always looked hazy from the side. I read once that it may be infusoria. I don't worry about it, but I'm guessing UV would take it out as it killed it off. The benefit of leaving it is that you have instant food for small fry. If Purigen reduces organics, and what you're seeing is infusoria, then it may kill off the infusoria, thus clearing the water? Don't know, just trying to make some connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
prov356
Im not exactly sure as of yet what is causing the cloudiness, but its getting annoying. I have the Marineland Double brights and can really see the columns of light going down from the top through whatever is in there. My last tank had a cloudiness to it too, but not as bad as this one. I did just switch tanks, (using same water and everything) so might just be a small bacteria bloom. I hope anyhow. I have no particles that I can see floating around in the water column that I can see at all so whatever it is small.

I do have the glass tops on this tank too so no dust should be getting in there, if that matters.
 

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New tanks can be weird this way. I'd suggest patiently trying different things and see if they help. Water haziness is a hard thing to diagnose and cure. Adding super fine filter pads isn't the answer because they'll clog very quickly. Flocculants are a temporary fix. If I were you, I'd bulk up on the Purigen and see if it makes a difference. If not, try the UV. I've read where it can even be chemical and something is falling out of solution showing up as a haze. Hard to diagnose really. And I know that some of these things require $$, so that could be a factor in deciding what to try.

I was going to link a site for you, but the site says it's under maintenance. I was going to link you to a site called 'The Skeptical Aquarist'. It's an excellent site, but hasn't been updated in a while, so this is hopefully a good sign. Google 'skeptical aquarist hazy water' when you get a chance. If the site is back up, it's worth perusing the other stuff he puts out there. I can't recommend it enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Tim,

I think that is what Im gonna do. Try and order some more purigen and add that to see if it helps. It does seem a little clearer today so that is good sign at least. Had a hard time making out the background on the tank just the other day and now I am starting to be able to see it more clearly. I had the purigen in my fluval but until that gets fixed and the flow rate is back to where it should be I put it in my eheim. Hoping the new impeller comes today but not looking good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well today is day 3 with the new tank, and the purigen added to my canister and the water had drastically improved. I can hardly see the columns of light coming from LED's. Getting a good shimmer effect again on the rocks and driftwood and am very pleased so far. Still think I am gonna go ahead and order some more purigen so I have enough to cover one tray in my filter and a batch that is ready to go for when this stuff needs to be recharged.

Have read where other people tried using a normal filter media bag and the holes were to big and would let the purigen out. I do have a cpl extra media bags that look pretty fine, made for the Aqua Clear's I believe so might just try them first and see if it works. Any suggestions on what else I could use? If anybody has gone through this already, what did you use and how much for what size tank?
 

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I love my purigen! One thing to think about though, is that if you don't allow any bypass, the purigen will slow your flow drastically. I have 2 100ml bags that I rotate on a 55G. I keep one wet in a jar when not in use. Only using one at a time works very well for me. Even though water can easily go around it, it keeps the water very clean. I have gone the zero bypass route before, and prefer how I have it set up now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Harkinstein said:
I love my purigen! One thing to think about though, is that if you don't allow any bypass, the purigen will slow your flow drastically. I have 2 100ml bags that I rotate on a 55G. I keep one wet in a jar when not in use. Only using one at a time works very well for me. Even though water can easily go around it, it keeps the water very clean. I have gone the zero bypass route before, and prefer how I have it set up now.
I think that is what I may do since it seems to be getting clearer and clearer each day. As good as it was in my 55 now so as long this keeps up I may not have the need to get more if I can do the same as you and rotate one 100ml bag out for a fresh one when needed.

? for ya tho, Why do you keep the extra one in a jar of water? Is that necessary or would you be able to just put in a zip-lock bag after recharging it? I do have extra jars so that is not a problem just am curious as to why or whether it needs to be stored like that?
 

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I remember reading somewhere that they suggest keeping it wet, otherwise the small beads could crack or something like that. Probably on the Seachem site. Not sure if it needs to be completely submerged, that's just what I do. I couldn't find where I read that though. The thing that I use is more of a plastic measuring bottle with a lid. It's nice, because I can measure the bleach and water in there when I regenerate it as well.
 

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It's dry when you buy it....is it the expansion and contraction of going from wet to dry that is supposed to cause this? Just doesn't make sense in my little pea brain. (bobby butronic reference)
 

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RRasco

Not sure, what the deal is, I just store it wet because I'm supposed to. :-?

xxbenjamminxx

I'm not familiar with the inside of the Eheim, but if the flow is downward with a tube that the water goes up through to the output, you could set it up how I did. Instead of putting the Purigen in a tray, put it underneath the bottom tray directly under the upward tube. Depending on how big the tube is, you may want to cut a piece of egg crate to keep the Purigen bag from getting sucked up in there. This way, there is a lot more contact than just placing it somewhere in the tray.

Even if the filter isn't built like that, it gives you something to think about. The media doesn't HAVE to go IN the trays. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey while boredom was setting in I found this info on another forum where Seachem answered questions about storing Purigen. They said that is best to store with RO or distilled water in either a jar or zip lock bag.

Re: Storing Purigen
Yes; you can store excess Purigen in a Ziplock bag with some water in it to keep it moist (thanks for answering, Aquaticom . It is best to use RO or DI water to store it (to prevent mold from growing); however, you can use tap water, but you may want to change out the water every once in a while. Storing Purigen in this manner will prevent it from drying out; you should be able to store it this way for several months.

Re: Storing Purigen
If stored in bleach for an extended period of time, the bleach can impact the capability of the resin to perform. I would not recommend doing so.

Seachem Sponsor
Location: Madison, GA

Re: Storing Purigen
By letting the Purigen dry out completely, you run the risk of the beads cracking. Not only reducing the efficiency of the product, but also reducing the size of the beads, allowing them to slip out of the media bag.

Now we know, thanks Harkinstein for bringing that up, never heard of that before.
 
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