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PlaGrl 26 said:
I design 3~D backgrounds and started out with All Glass Silicone. I ran out and called All Glass. The customer Service Rep told me it was safe to use any CLEAR silicone. Had to be clear. So I have had great luck with it. It is also about $5.00 a tube cheaper than All Glass. :D
I wasn't paying attention when I bought one of my silicone (GE I Window & Door) tubes and bought WHITE by mistake. I ended up getting some on one of my concrete background pieces (when I was gluing some paint strainer sheet over the hole for the "equipment chamber" area of the background to keep the fish out of that chamber).

Will this be a problem, or am I going to have to remove all the white silicone (now cured unfortunately) that got on the concrete? That will be a huge pain, so I'm hoping not to have to do that. :-?
 

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From what I know the coloring has no effect on whether or not it is safe for aquarium use. Ever see a tank with black silicon???

You should be just fine. The only true thing to look out for is fungicides and mildewicides. thats the reason we state that the Door and Glass silicon is the best to use as it does not contain them.
 

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Thought I'd just add my experiences with silicone.
I was VERY unluckly when buying tanks for my fish house. The first batch of tanks (20 or so) were purchased from a very respected local manufacturer, my step-father also purchased a large tank too. He was first to set up and stock his tank..... all fish died within 24 hours of putting in the tank. The usual tests/self doubt/fish and water supplier blame etc followed, I then loaned him a batch of my juv angelfish...these too were dead in 24 hrs. After eliminating all decor and usuing aged water from one of my mature tanks and finding the problem was still there it was evident the tank was the problem. We contacted the supplier (and checked my new tanks) to find that he had problems with much of his new stock. His sealent supplier had sent him a batch of sealer that had had fungicide added, it was clear and behaved like 'aquarium grade' so couldn't be detected until used. Needless to say we were compensated. 12 months after this I went to another supplier to buy the second half of my tanks only for the same thing to happen !!!! I knew the syptoms the fish showed was poisoning, I contacted the manufacturer straight away but he didn't believe me until the questions and complaints started to pour in. It almost finished him, needless to say he appologised and my tanks replaced.
This was 15 years ago, regulations may be tougher now, and chemicals handled more responsibly, but I am very cautious when using any type of sealer. White almost always contains anti mould/fungus chems which are VERY toxic. I have used a black sealer but bought it from an aquarium manufacturer (I have a bit more faith now :roll: ). I would avoid any bathroom sealer.
The symptoms fish show are:- Staying to the sided of the tank, they never venture into the middle ; heavy breathing ; 'glazed' expression ; listlessness ; death within 24/36 hours.
 

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Yet another question about silicone .... is it necessary to flush out the tank and do a few water changes after it is cured?
Not necessary but I always do a "test-fill" for leaks and this will also rinse out any debris in the tank. Once silicone is cured it's good-to-go (as long as it's the correct type).
 

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I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I have a lot of this stuff lying around so I figured if it works it'll save some cash.

It releases acetic acid when curing, so I wasn't sure if this was the industrial version of GE silicone 1.

Also, how would the adhesion to acrylic be? I've noticed some liquid nails products state good adhesion to acrylics but are not for submerged use. If these products are left to completely cure would they be ok?
 

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just thought I'd add a little something here.
Mastercraft window and door silicone says right on the tube in bold letters
" IDEAL FOR USE IN AQUARIUMS "then in brackets(allow 2-5 days before filling aquarium)
the tube I have is white silicone but it about a year old so I dont know if it still says it on the new tubes.
BTW Mastercraft is a Canadain Tire product.
hope this helps

Terry
 

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After reading most of this thread, I went to Rona (just like Home Depot) and was going to get Clear GE Silicone 1 for Window and Door in order to re-caulk my 45 gal. I was determined that this stuff was the right stuff because so many of you recommended it. To my disappointment when the person that works there finally found it he told me: "oh this stuff is no good for aquariums". Sure enough right there on the label it said, "Not suitable for Aquariums". "Do not use below the water line". Am I missing something? Has GE just gone crazy with their labelling in order to avoid any unhappy customers? Should I really worry about this warning?
 

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What is the black silicone that I am seeing in the oceanic aquariums? I have been to my lfos and they are using a black sealant. I think some of the topfin ones use it as well.
 

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Scott, the GE Silicone I Window & Door is just fine for aquariums, I've used it without any trouble on various applications.
Michael, the black sealant is just black-colored 100% silicone, it's also available in GE Silicone I.
 

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Hi guys saw the thread could not resist, I may be learning about cichlids, but I know a lot about silicone. Yes! ge silicone I is safe for aquariums and dap 100% silicone is safe as well. The reason ge silicone II is not save for aquarium is because it has antibacterial compounds added to it to prevent bacteria growth.

as for other brands of silicone the answer is easy if you know what to look for on the label. Let me back up and first state there are only to companies in the U.S. that are allowed under law to produce silicone, one company is GE the other is Dow Corning so if it is 100% silicone it came from one of these companies.

okay now for the answer somewhere on the label there will be a listing for VOC contents contained in the silicone if the VOC content is between 32-36 it is safe to use if it is above 36 do not use it if it is below 32 it is not 100% silicone again do not use it.

By the way VOC stands for volatile Organic compounds it has to be listed on the label by law and if you cannot find it ask a employe at the store of purchase, under law the employe, if he is certified to work in that area of the store, he is required by law to have access to that info.
 

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Read through your threads and see your confused on the amount arsenic if the VOC contant is 32 their is no arsenic anything higher has small amounts of arsenic added GE I, I believe is about 35 so it is safe for fish tanks. GE II is over 50 do not use it. Sorry do not have labels infront of me so those numbers are approximants so don't hold me to those numbers please! One last thing if it is under 32 than the silicone has been mixed with acrylic and will not hold up under water.

As far as GE says that silicone I is not rated for under water use they are just trying to sell you there comercial grades for a higer price. It is the same thing in a different tube, for more money. Same is true for kitchen and bath and interior exterior silicone I. Kitchen and bath costs more than interior exterior but they are the same silicone. These companies have good marketing strategies.
 

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New2cichlids24 said:
Read through your threads and see your confused on the amount arsenic if the VOC contant is 32 their is no arsenic anything higher has small amounts of arsenic added GE I, I believe is about 35 so it is safe for fish tanks. GE II is over 50 do not use it. Sorry do not have labels infront of me so those numbers are approximants so don't hold me to those numbers please! One last thing if it is under 32 than the silicone has been mixed with acrylic and will not hold up under water.

As far as GE says that silicone I is not rated for under water use they are just trying to sell you there comercial grades for a higer price. It is the same thing in a different tube, for more money. Same is true for kitchen and bath and interior exterior silicone I. Kitchen and bath costs more than interior exterior but they are the same silicone. These companies have good marketing strategies.
Hi,

I was trying to find the VOC info for GE's Contractors SCS1000 silicone.. There's nothing on the tube and I can't seem to find it on the web either? Is this simply Silicone 1 in a different bottle?
 

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1000's have been using ge silicone 1 for years without problems. how much more do we need do dwell on before we start asking for the caramel secret....
(isn't there enough proof to lay this to rest)
 

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how much more do we need do dwell on before we start asking for the caramel secret....
so can ANYONE tell me the caramel secret, I was wanting to make my own choclate bar and I'm pretty sure I could make a million if I could figure it out :lol:

O.K. one more silicone for the record

HOME HARDWARE WEATHERSEAL
SEAL, SILICONE
Model: WS CLR 300ML
HH Item Number: 2031-205
Interior/Exterior Silicone Sealant
- Excellent adhesion to glass, metal, plastic and
tile surfaces
- Superior durability and flexibility
- Will not degrade in sunlight
- Withstands temperatures between -54 degree
C to 204 degree C
- Tooling time is 3-5 minutes, full cure in 24
hours
- Safe to use on aquariums
- 35+ year durability

Terry
 

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I'm quite confused, "GE silicone II Windows and Doors", is it safe? The only ingrediant listed is a fancy silicone name. The VOC is listed as "below 50."

I searched for it on google, GE said that it wasn't safe because:
Which product can I use in my aquarium?

GE does not recommend the use of our CONSUMER products on aquariums. The Silicone II product line releases ammonia as the by-product of cure. The ammonia can change the pH of the water in the aquarium having a negative impact on the marine life.
If it releases the ammonia during the cure, after that, shouldn't it be safe??
 

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If it releases the ammonia during the cure, after that, shouldn't it be safe??
Yes :) I'd still recommend GE I over GE II, it seems to have a slightly better adhesion.
1000's have been using ge silicone 1 for years without problems. how much more do we need do dwell on before we start asking for the caramel secret....
(isn't there enough proof to lay this to rest)
Well put Mars23, just let it go...................
 

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for years i haveused wally worlds silicone mainstays.i have 30 tanks and none leak.100 o/o pure silicone no anti bac in it is the right stuff just rember to let the silicone release all fumes before adding water .
 

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mars23 said:
GEI actually sticks to glass better than II.
Do you have any links that back up your claim? You have made me curious. I thought GE II was stronger than GE I on glass as well.
 
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