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Borsig said:
Is this info still accurate?

GE silicone I window and door?
Obviously you are not asking about the prices.. Prices keep going up even if the consumer price index fails to notice.

Be sure the product you are buying is the same as the one discussed. I would take personal preferences with a grain of salt. Like the last one. The GE may have worked better for him the second time because he learned better how to clean all the old silicone and dirt off the aquarium glass. The dirt factor can have a huge bearing on the strength and durability of a bond.

Some of these formulations may be the same as ever, but now made overseas and imported.
 

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just noticed your question Iggy Newcastle. prolly too late to answer your question.
no i havnt seen it in black... but, the algae and just time ,the silicone on the sides have grown a brown tint to it so it is blending in. :thumb:
 

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I generally have used the G.E. stuff, I know that all larger Fish Dealers near Toronto sell it when you ask for aquarium sealant. Actually, the only two things I definitely rule out when using aquarium silicone is those marked as having a mildew killing product, and those using ammonia (likely safe after a full cure, as mentioned above, I just hate using anything wish ammonia in my fish room) in their curing process. BTW, G.E.'s website says that the product will be basically cured after 24 hrs, but fully cured only after up to a week. For what it's worth, I used it on many aquariums, and never had the slightest problem with a 36-48 hour wait period. Other than sticking to everything I touch for about the first 10 minutes, that is :)----rick
 

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I used GE Silicone I from Lowes to glue my rocks together, cured for 3-4 days, added water. All good for 3 days, until I started fishless bio cycling with household ammonia. I'm at < 1ppm Ammonia, but now I see shedding from the silcone joints on some of the rocks. It took a full day to start doing it, fine pieces on silicone skin coming off of the silicone joints on rocks.

On my Ammonia Alert, I'm on light blue (0.2ppm).

Help! So, maybe I didn't let in cure long enough? Or, take it all apart and do it with the proper silicone? Maybe I added a little too much ammonia? It seems to be shedding most where I added the ammonia. I'm seriously bummed!

 

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I think the issue is/was that I did not dilute the ammonia and put it in right over the outcrop of rocks, and so it got a higher dose and started to break down some of the silicone. The other outcrops are fine.

I took out the silicone'd rocks and stripped the tank down, rinse the filters, and have started over without rocks or gravel/sand. I will cycle the tank with feeder goldfish, re-think the rocks, maybe use them, or not. I rinsed off the one outcrop and it seems fine (now).
 

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I have used Dow Corning RTV 732 for over 30 years (although not every day), and have had no problems. Acetic acid is present and can be a problem to those susceptible (high humidity seems to make the effects worse).

Joe
 

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I recently contacted a custom tank builder and they use exclusively GE 1200 series. He explained that not all silicone has the same tensile strength and that weaker silicones can cause splitting between the panes of glass. I've used the GE 1 in the past but never on any tanks bigger than 45 gallons.
 

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You may have trouble finding the GE 1200, as it is normally only sold in bulk packs. It is usually sold in places that supply trades rather than retail. If you cab find a jobber who breaks up the pack, it should be only a little more than Silicone I. As far as the interior fillet goes, it probably doesn't matter if you use Silicone I or GE 1200. For the butt joints, the stronger silicone is probably better, because the glass is not as thick as it once was, so the bonding area is less than tanks built 40 years ago.
 

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Just pulled this from a Home Depot review of ge1 silicone door and window
I was looking for 100% silicone with no additives whatsoever. After calling the help number on the tube, customer service informed me that there is indeed a mold inhibitor in this formula although it doesn't state so anywhere on
 

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Pdxmonkeyboy said:
I have always wondered what the effect of the mold inhibitor actually was. I mean, the silicone itself would not mold, but what it leach out into the tank water??
It appears to leach out into the water, killing fish and plants.
 

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Use momentive rtv 103 (or 108 if you want clear). Same as GE 1200 series.

GE silicone 1 comes in black and is in stock at my local Walmart. I haven't used it for in task applications.

I used the momentive 103 to reseal a 6 ft tank this spring. Worked great.
 

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It's really not worth the effort anymore. I'd rather spend a little more and not have to deal with the headache lol! The only occasion that I've found a diy tank to be worthwhile and cost effective, is when it's a really large tank and all but one side is plywood.
 

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I'm actually building a large tank myself, built the base out of 6/2 And dressed it in 15mm ply that acted as sheet bracing,
The timber and glass cost $1000 in total but at 280 gallons I think it's a bargain.

Actually paid for the glass today, can't wait!

I have prosil 20 professional 100% acetic silicone to bond the glass.
Anyone know how good that is?
 
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