It smells just like vinigar. I think all silicones have this smell. Usually after 24-36 hours or so, when it fully cures, the smell will go away. If you can still smell it, wait a little longer. Might even want to wait a few more days after the smell is gone, just to be on the safe side.
I got ge silicone bath and sink from home depot in the paint section and i have used this before and I have had no problem. It does smell like vineger(ALOT ), dont get that stuff on you because it stays for about a week(it has to wear off, nothing gets it off)
Silicone I gives off acetic acid while curing. This is the vinegar smell. A friend of mine worked in Axelrod's aquarium building company many years ago and still has problems from the damage it did to his sinuses and lungs. Your body gives you no warning of the dangers of breathing in acid vapor. The hazard of smelling this stuff prompted the development of Silicone II which instead gives off ammonia. Your body knows about ammonia. II has about 80% of the strength of the original formulation, plenty for building a tank. Once the II is completely cured, it no longer gives off ammonia, but until then it is not safe with fish. If you do all your assembly and curing in a separate place from your fish, there should be no problem. However the company is off the hook with their disclaimer. I always use the original stuff but make sure have ventilation in the area, and a fan blowing fresh air right at my work site.
Someone mentioned bath and tub caulk. That contains a mildewcide which will leach out into the water affecting fish and plants. The most common mildewcide used in this product is arsenic, a slow acting cumulative poison.
Okay, so I need to know what the difference is between the silicones. I bought the GE silicone II - gutter and flashing. Is there a difference between this and the kitchen & bath version? I am putting rock onto pvc for caves in my aquarium.
Please let me know if there is a difference. I haven't finished this project and would like to know if I can continue.
Yes there is a difference the bathroom,kitchen,silicone most times they
have fungicide in them and are toxic to fish
that is why you want to find the one I reccommended it is food safe and says so on the label. I t also is clear with no additive for coloring..there is a silicone which is black and safe to use it has the same cartridge number as the clear i posted...
KMbrush, the Silicone II gives off ammonia while curing, so use it and cure it in a spot far away from all fish tanks. It does not contain arsenic or any other mildewcides. It is not as strong as original silicone but safer for you to use since breathing the acetic acid fumes from the original formulation is harzardous. Even the stronger formulation does not stick well to plastic pipe and many rocks. You could try Oatey brand all purpose cement instead. You can score the rocks and put some cement there to dry out before assembling the whole thing. http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_2637 ... 6-oz-.html
I spoke to Tom at GlassCages.com and he said that they DO sell 10.4oz tubes of aquarium silicone, though it is not listed on their web site. Price is $6.00 each. All you have to do is pay shipping (varies, depending on where you live). I ordered 4 tubes today to secure my foam background (when I get it finished) and to have some extra in case I need it. IMO, it is worthwhile because I KNOW this is the correct stuff and the price premium is only about $1-2.
Tell him I sent you.
PS. I have no financial interest in GlassCages.com and I am not receiving any type of compensation for this. I DID buy a 115g tank from them about three weeks ago.
A lot of questions in this post, Yet they all seem to revolve around a common thread. What type of silicon to use in a aquarium. Obviously, anyone that is list for aquriums will work. They are expensive compared to other ones though. Stay away from kitchen/bath, they have a fungisided to kill molds, and mildew. I use the least expensive 100% clear silcon I can find. This must cure for at least 48, before having water put in the tank, I also rinse the joints first, with water, then drain, and let dry over night. I have never had a lost fish from this method. If you are building the tank, and not just repairing a leaky one, it is more in how the joint is filled with the silcon then with anything else.
Ever tried gluing rocks together with silicon? I have. It sucked. Not to be confused with stuck, which it didn't.
Alas, there is another choice.
There is a foam product similar to that used to fill/insulate cavities in walls etc that you can find in the water garden section of most builder supply stores like Lowe's or Home Depot. It is primarily designed for pond water fall construction, comes in black, and is listed as fish safe. Costs about $14 a can, American.