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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered a FX5 thats being delivered tomorrow and I want to make a spraybar for it. Im also using a Hydor ETH300 inline heater so I wont be using the FX tubing.

When I build the spray bar I'll have to use a "y" reducer splitter since the connections on the ETH300 are 5/8". Should I go with # 1 or #2? Im pretty sure #1 but wanted to ask.......

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My initial thought was to put some inline valves to help balance the water flow through the two paths, or even to reduce the water flow through the side with the inline. The FX5 really can kick water out and you are going to generate some real pressure on all the joins.

As an aside, why a spray bar?
 

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I don't see the need to rejoin the split hosing at the spray bar. One of the spilt hoses would do the trick and the other one could cover a bit of the role of a powerhead...

I am also splitting my FX5 output, but as noted above, I am using ball valves to control flow a little better.

kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Britnick said:
My initial thought was to put some inline valves to help balance the water flow through the two paths, or even to reduce the water flow through the side with the inline. The FX5 really can kick water out and you are going to generate some real pressure on all the joins.

As an aside, why a spray bar?
I'll take a look at some valves. Why spray bar? Because Id rather make a spraybar to agitate the water than using fluvals nozzle. My oceanic tank has 2 big glass panels in the middle so its hard to have a powerhead etc. on the left side of the tank that will also agitate the water on the right side of the tank. Hope that makes sense. :D

ridley25 said:
I don't see the need to rejoin the split hosing at the spray bar. One of the spilt hoses would do the trick and the other one could cover a bit of the role of a powerhead...

I am also splitting my FX5 output, but as noted above, I am using ball valves to control flow a little better.

kevin
I definitely dont want to output hoses. I'll try to find the right side ball valves at homedepot, hopefully theyll have them in stock.
 

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My tank is the same. My output of my FX5 has one nozzle pointed almost directly at that middle glass area, the other at the corner of the tank.

I have a cheap sponge filter in the opposite corner angled towards center of tank.

I have a Aqueon 1250GPH circulator in the back right pointed to opposite corner.

I've watched poop float and it always ends up in the intake! It feels like making a full court basketball shot!

(I didn't want the noise of a spraybar)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My Eheim universal spraybar doesn't make any water noise. I have it below the water line with it pointing slightly upwards.

The FX5 was delivered this morning so maybe I'll just try the fluval output nozzle first...who knows maybe I'll like it!
 

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Remember you can turn them (individually of course) from horizontal to vertical depending on what you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im so frustrated Im about to return this FX5. :lol:

I went to lowes, homedepot, autozone, oreillys and NOBODY has a "Y" splitter. Lowes has "T" fittings but theyre not the size I need!!!! Anyone know where I can buy 2 "Y" splitters that will fit 1" x dual 5/8"?????
 

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Here's what you will end up with to make this work.

2 ball valves
T splitter
reducers that you end up gluing into the T

Even if you find a Y you need a way to balance the flow. Also if you are going with picture number 2 I would instead make that spraybar actually 2 pieces. That way you can visually gauge if you have balanced the flow. Wouldn't it suck to burn your heater out due to a severely reduced flow through that leg?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I see what you mean about using a valve, glad yall helped me with that so my heater didnt burn up. :thumb: :thumb:

Im going with #1 and I found some "Y" reducers and ball valves online. :dancing: I ordered:

2x "Y" barb reducers: 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2"
2x: Two little fishies barb ball valves: 1/2" x 1/2"

Hope that works :popcorn:
 

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Unfortunately for us, 5/8" is not a standard plumbing size. :(

Trust me, been there - done that.
 

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I split mine and used Ts. I used a 1x3/4x3/4 T. You have to really stretch the fluval tubing over the 1" barb but it worked. I did however use a 10" piece of fluval tubing from the filter to the T, and clear tubing for the rest. I made my own inline heater though, so that 3/4" would work. Saved me a bit of cash though. My hydor was around 80 bucks and the DIY was about 20 plus the heater I already had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After buying those parts I dont even think I need them. I was originally going to just run the FX5 but after setting it up I think im going to keep the Eheim 2217 running as well. And since thats the case I already have 5/8" - 1/2" reducer barbs that I can hook the ETH300 up to the 2217 with. :lol:

So now that thats figured out I went to HD and got some gray PVC parts to make the FX5 spray bar. Before I start I came across a picture of a guy using a "T" section in the middle of his spray bar. Is there any advantage of going that route as opposed to having the water come in from one end only and capped at the other end??



Im going to make a 36" spray bar with 1/4" holes.
 

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You'd have to test, or know an engineer to see if the water flow would push through 36" of tubing with 1/4" holes (and how far apart, etc) with a decent amount of force. I would imagine the flow out each hole will likely decrease as you get further down the tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Glaneon said:
You'd have to test, or know an engineer to see if the water flow would push through 36" of tubing with 1/4" holes (and how far apart, etc) with a decent amount of force. I would imagine the flow out each hole will likely decrease as you get further down the tube.
Theres a guy w/ a 90 gallon that did a 36" with 5/16" holes and he said its fine and hes also using sand. So the length shouldnt be a problem. I just though maybe having the water coming in through the middle "T" will help the pressure be equal on both sides of the spray bar and it would have the same force spray on both sides of the "T" and not diminish like it could with water coming in from one side only.

Guess I'll try it out both ways and see......
 

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Depends on the size of the holes.

I would think if you divide the flow (600GPH+) by the number of holes, and the size, you're going to lose significant force not far from the spraybar.

I find with the nozzles (that came with it), if directed to not ripple the surface, the flow is just enough to cover the entire 6' tank.

I put a 1250GPH circulator at one end and it pushes water/debris/fish, etc until it hits the flow at the other end of the tank (about 4.5' down the tank) - and would keep going had I not have a different flow there (which forces anything in that flow to be directed to the back of the tank to the intake!).

I got a diagram in work now :)
 

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Here's mine..



What I'm worried about with reduced pressure out each 1/4" hole would be it would only produce a decent flow out to about 6", and definitely have a harder time moving any of the water near the bottom of the tank (unless that's what your eheim is doing).

I meant to draw your proposed but I ran out of time :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thats some good stuff right there. :D

I ended up making using the "T" for my first trial. I'll have to mess around with it maybe tonight and see if it works.
 

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T fittings have pretty large pressure drops. My bet is you will find no difference between the two. Go with whichever one is more convenient to plumb in your tank.
 

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Oh and yes use small holes relative to the diameter of your pipe. You want your filter pump to pressurize the whole tube before the water is then pushed out of the holes. Think of it as though you are trying to get smooth laminar flow in the pipe so that pressure gradient is not along the length of the pipe but rather from one side of the pipe to the other side with holes and then out the hole.

Hope I'm making sense, it is clear as day in my mind :wink:
 
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