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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had my fish tank cycled for 2 months and then 3 weeks ago i added 12 johannis - added prime and stability daily (for 5 days) to ensure no ammonia spikes and so the BB would catch up.
3 days ago i did a 40-50% water change and added 2 nerite snails to combat the diatoms and now this morning a female johani died - now *** already lost 8 yellow labs 2 months ago in another tank so I'm very concerned.
here are my water parameters
ammonia - 0
nitrite -0
nitrate 5-10 (i have plants and use co-op green fertilizer - added 3 pumps at time of WC)
ph - 8.2
gh- 320
hk- 160
i use prime and stability at every water change
55 gallon tan with anubias and java fern on dragon rock

*** ordered some general cure but since im in Canada i dont even know if it will cross the border or in time for that matter.

Please help im desperate
 

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Your caption says fish not eating and dying. Are they all not eating? How long have they not been eating? Is there anything else you might have noticed that is strange about their behavior? Rapid breathing? Flashing? Aggression?

Are you dosing for the full tank volume when you are doing water changes if adding water directly to the tank? Do you make sure your hands and arms are free from any soap, hand sanitizers or lotions before you work 8n your tank or feed the fish? Its almost impossible to pinpoint what is wrong right now without actually seeing the tank and your maintenance of it or without more information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
none of them have been eating for 2 days - a couple are breathing heavy and hiding and some are flashing but no signs of ick
some signs of aggression the day i did the water change but i chalked it up to them mating as my tank boss was doing his shimmy

i am dosing prime and stability for the full tank amount and not just the wc amount - hands are always washed prior t putting them in and make sure there is no residue of soap
 

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How often are they flashing? Is it constant? Make sure you have enough surface agitation and water movement throughout the tank. Direct any filter outputs to break the water surface. Do you have an airstream you could put in as well or a powerhead or WaveMaker? If they arent eating and are passing white stringy feces you can add epsom salt to the tank at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. API General Cure might be a decent medication to use as it is won't effect the biological filtration and treats a wide variety of ailments. These fish weren't quarantined before putting in your tank correct? Also, what temp do you have the tank at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they were the only fish in the tank at the time of adding

rarely flashing TBH and i also have a powerhead, 2 HOB, and a sponge filter and i turn off the powerhead at night

going out now to get some epsom salt unless aquarium salt works also? aquarium salt i have on hand

they are definitely passing white or clear poop and hope i can get the General cure into Canada in time - our government has banned it
 

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Are you using the Easy Green All-in-One fertilizer in both tanks? Have you been using it all along?

What are your tap water test results for the parameters you listed in your 1st post?

Just curious it the fertz has anything to do with it.

Not aquarium salt, just plain unscented Epsom salt to treat for the whitish stringy feces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
going to get epsom salt now :(

straight out of the tap my water gh is less than 20 kh is also very low and ph 7.5 ish so i have to use cichlid salt and buffer along with the prime and stability

*** always use the easy green with every water change since the beginning

just did another 50% wc and did not add in more fertilizer just in case
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
just want to also say thank you so much for the help! new to this forum and I truly appreciate all the responses
 

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Has to be plain epsom salt with no fragrances or anything else added. Different than aquarium salt. And you have to slowly add the epsom salt over a period of 6- 10 hours so you don't shock the fish. You have to replace the epsom salt with every water change so if you take out 10 gallons you need to add 2 tablespoons to the water going back in. Always mix in a bucket, never add the salt directly to the tank. Lower the volume of your water so the output of your HOB's break the surface. You're probably dealing with a parasite as well, maybe you just don't see the ich yet. Have to be careful about using different medications together. I have used Kordon Rid Ich plus and General Cure together successfully in quarantine. To treat what sounds like Malawi Bloat you need metronidazole which is in the General Cure.
 

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Another possibility for the flashing could be if you are having pH swings or possibly increasing the gh and kh too quickly. Does the flashing happen more when you are doing water changes then go away or has it been constant flashing? Short answer is the fish are irritated by something, just have to figure out what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
should i be adding in the cichlid salt and buffer slowly as well when doing a wc? I've been dumping it all in at once, once the tank is refilled of course
 

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I dont use any buffers or salts regularly for my tanks so i can't comment too much but i would think if they are used to it and it is the same exact parameters as the water in the tank it should be fine. Its my understanding that you should always premix in a bucket and not add directly to the tank, though.
 

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patcage, you didn't mention that you are adding cichlid salt and buffer to the tank already so I'm not sure if adding Epsom salts is going to screw things up further. You may have to stop using those products while you are treating with the Epsom salts but should wait until you get confirmation from someone with experience using all three products at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
fishboy75 said:
I dont use any buffers or salts regularly for my tanks so i can't comment too much but i would think if they are used to it and it is the same exact parameters as the water in the tank it should be fine. Its my understanding that you should always premix in a bucket and not add directly to the tank, though.
so your tape water comes out at the parameters recommended for cichlids? i always remix in tank water and then put it in the tank - it dissolves better
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Deeda said:
patcage, you didn't mention that you are adding cichlid salt and buffer to the tank already so I'm not sure if adding Epsom salts is going to screw things up further. You may have to stop using those products while you are treating with the Epsom salts but should wait until you get confirmation from someone with experience using all three products at the same time.
*** already added some epsom salt in but you are probably right maybe i should wait for someone who has used all 3 - but then again the cichlid salt and buffer just mimic the water parameters of the great lakes (which they've never been in lol) along with the mineral nutrients they need....i would think its ok since I'm using it as a laxative to get this parasite out...i think??

ill watch them closely and see if there is any improvement before adding the remainder of the epsom.
 

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You have help on how to make the fish better, but something to consider is what caused the problem in the first place? What are the dimensions of your tank and what are the species and genders of your stock?

Is it a 48x12 rectangle 55G? Are the 12 johannii the only fish? Are you sure they are johannii and not cyaneorhabdos?
 

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[/quote]
so your tape water comes out at the parameters recommended for cichlids? i always remix in tank water and then put it in the tank - it dissolves better[/quote]

Close enough for me. 7.8 pH, KH 7 and GH 10. I would rather have consistent parameters than chase "perfect" ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
DJRansome said:
You have help on how to make the fish better, but something to consider is what caused the problem in the first place? What are the dimensions of your tank and what are the species and genders of your stock?

Is it a 48x12 rectangle 55G? Are the 12 johannii the only fish? Are you sure they are johannii and not cyaneorhabdos?
After a lot of research I'm wondering if its bloat without them being bloated? or an internal parasite from possibly over feeding? its a regular 55 so 48x12 nd they are definitely johanni and *** always done weekly water changes but with over feedign maybe it was not enough - i followed the feeding on the back of the northfin. "feed fish as much as they eat in 1-2 mins". i feed a mix of northfin pellets, spirulina flakes and a nortfin algea wafers.
 

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patcage said:
should i be adding in the cichlid salt and buffer slowly as well when doing a wc? I've been dumping it all in at once, once the tank is refilled of course
I'm addressing your above question only: yes you should add this gradually. Some people use a constant drip from the buffer solution container throughout the tank refilling. I pour a scoop of buffer solution in every 2 minutes.
 

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patcage said:
DJRansome said:
You have help on how to make the fish better, but something to consider is what caused the problem in the first place? What are the dimensions of your tank and what are the species and genders of your stock?

Is it a 48x12 rectangle 55G? Are the 12 johannii the only fish? Are you sure they are johannii and not cyaneorhabdos?
After a lot of research I'm wondering if its bloat without them being bloated? or an internal parasite from possibly over feeding? its a regular 55 so 48x12 nd they are definitely johanni and I've always done weekly water changes but with over feedign maybe it was not enough - i followed the feeding on the back of the northfin. "feed fish as much as they eat in 1-2 mins". i feed a mix of northfin pellets, spirulina flakes and a nortfin algea wafers.
I would put them in a larger tank if you can because they are very aggressive. You would want one male and 7 or more females, just of the johannii. Females and juveniles are yellow-orange.

Bloat is not caused by food or overfeeding. Other problems could be caused by overfeeding...what they can eat for 30 seconds is what I do. Your water quality would show if the food was rotting, so food is not the cause of your illness.

The most likely suspect is stress caused by aggression. IME this is the single most common issue with Africans. Are any individuals lurking under the surface or behind filter intakes or heaters?
 
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