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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a reef ready setup 150g with 55g sump this weekend for $400 which is really nice, but I'm trying to decide how to filter my new setup. It will be for a frontosa/gibberosa colony.

Sump: I'm concerned about weight. The tank is perpendicular to house joists and against an outside wall. Still, it's a 99 year old house (newly renovated) and I really don't want to worry about the floor or putting in floor jacks ( crawlspace is on other side of the house and it's a 30 foot spelunking job with 3' max headspace to get over to where tank is ). I pulled the overflow out and about to cap the drilled holes but want to research before.

Canister: looking at a pair of Filstar XPL. The Fluval FX5 look nice but pricey. Will 2 canisters be ok for a tank of eight 5-8" fish?

HOB: these are a little old school and wand to stay away from the noise, unsightly intake tube, and having to bring tank out from wall. But they do offer good mechanical filtration.

What are you guys using on your 6 foot tanks? Wonder if id be ok on the weight with sump but who wants to call a structural engineer???
 

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I use two Eheim 2262's on my 6', 210g tank. I also run two Hydor 1500's but that is a 29" tall tank. You could probably get away with one on a 150.
I used to run two Eheim 2217's on each of my 120's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I was hoping I could get away with just two canisters since I won't have a crazy overstocked tank. Just 8 big fish.

I'll probably order the two Filstars and use the sump as another tank. I'm just too worried about the weight now imthat I just bought my first property vs renting from a place that wasn't mine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For canisters I'm thinking sponge, ceramic rings, polishing pillow stuffing, and crushed coral to buffer the ph and hardness
 

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I run sumps on my 6' tanks. One thing that is not obvious in your posting is that a sump does not run full. Meaning, you will not have 55 gal of water in it. At the least, a sump should have the capacity to absorb all the water that will drain from the main tank in event of power failure. But you can set it up to run with much less water, which should negate part of your weight concerns. As example, one of my sumps is approx 45 gallons, and might have 20 in it at any one time.

Just something to consider.
 

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Are you 100% certain that the floor will support the weight of the tank+stand, never mind the sump? No experience with tanks on pier and beam construction personally, but I've been in older pier and beam homes, and they frankly didn't always feel all that solid. I'd be suspicious in particular of shearing stress - the loading of one area can have nonlocal impacts as downward/upward stresses translate across the joists/beams. Sump or no, you might want to call a structural engineer anyway, if only for peace of mind. Remember water weighs over 8lbs/gal, so for your 150, inclusive tank/stand/decor, you're looking at 1500ish pounds, possibly more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. I've capped the drilled holes but I could always go back if I wanted- it's not filled yet.

As for the weight, I've read quite a bit and I do have the tank positioned perpendicular to the joists and against the outside, load-bearing wall. Most of what I've read says I should be fine. When I looked in the crawl space (and crawling is all you could do) there are blocks down the center of the house and joists connected to them from the outside walls. I know my foundation is really solid from my home inspector. I'm not sure what size the joists are or the spacing. It's not easy to get under and measure. Perhaps I need to try again to assess their size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will also add that my stand has a flat bottom with styrofoam beneath it, which is what touches the floor. There are no legs or even a perimeter around the base- it's perfectly flat which would help distribute weight.
 

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eighteighty said:
Thanks for the replies. I've capped the drilled holes but I could always go back if I wanted- it's not filled yet.

As for the weight, I've read quite a bit and I do have the tank positioned perpendicular to the joists and against the outside, load-bearing wall. Most of what I've read says I should be fine. When I looked in the crawl space (and crawling is all you could do) there are blocks down the center of the house and joists connected to them from the outside walls. I know my foundation is really solid from my home inspector. I'm not sure what size the joists are or the spacing. It's not easy to get under and measure. Perhaps I need to try again to assess their size.
For something like this and the peace of mind, I'd take the step to go under. Looking at several things. Size of the joists, spacing of the joists. Then under where the tank will be, how are the joists connected to the sill? do the completely overlap the sill, (assume so, as it is older construction) but they could be notched. How long a span do the joists go before getting to the center blocks?

Assume they would not be held up by the modern metal joist hangers. IF you are not familiar with construction methods, it would be worth a few google image searches to get a sense of what you are looking for (and NOT looking for)

There is a also a article here in the library about tanks and structures which if you've not read, would also be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks. I have a hectic schedule but I will respond with what I find with photos. It looks like it's really difficult to get to the other side of the house where the tank is but I'll look on the easiest side again and take measurements of joists and try to look across and see if it's the same.
 
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