I keep Tanganyikans, but the proportions of the mix depend on your base water quality plus any buffers in your tank. What works for me or anyone else won't necessarily work for you. I experimented over 3 months or so recording ph, gh and kh levels in a log with every weekly water change til I found what worked. I wanted a mix that would get me to 8.4 at least in ph with gh and kh levels in the mid to high teens. I noticed strong color changes in my fish, especially the cyprichromis once I got the hardness to those levels. If you are more concerned with accurately matching the lakes (it's debateable if this is necessary, but many do it) then you might be better off buying one of the commercial buffers designed to match the three lakes. I think Seachem sells them, among others. If you are more inclined to adjust your ph, kh and gh levels, you have to create your own mix of ingredients. It's not a set recipe for everybody.livebearium said:Charlutz,
Thank you. But I am hoping people have different recipe for different lakes. Which does your represent best?
I have an old book that includes a chapter with water analyses for the rift lakes. The biggie is that all of these lakes have a higher level of iodine than typical fresh waters. The level in Tanganyika is very high. Adding a reef iodine product to your rift lake tanks is very important since it depletes from the aquarium quickly due to biological activity. Following the dosing directions for a reef tank will be very safe and yet adequate for even Tanganyikan cichlids. It is amazing what a difference this makes in fry growth and development, and in the behaviors of adult fish.livebearium said:Does anyone have recipes that they use to replicate the different salts found in Malwi, Tanganyika, and Victoria?
If you can find a source of water such as a well or spring that already matches the characteristics of the rift lakes. Most of the rift lake fish, especially the cichlids are very adaptable but the critical factor is iodine, which is not well addressed inthese formulas here. It is used up rapicly inthe aquarium and needs to be replenished, while some of the other minerals here would only need to be replenished for what is removed during water changes. Kind of gives you an idea of how biologically active they are compared to minerals that get used and used up by life in the water.Charlutz said:I've found it more convenient to keep them in a sealed bucket. I don't know how many tanks you have or how much buffer you will use, but I use 3 cups a week of the buffer for my 2 tanks (250g total). I'd need at least 5g of water to keep it dissolved, if not more, just for one week. That doesn't seem very efficient to me. I note that the mixture does cake readily even though I store it in an airtight bucket, which means I need to stir it before use.
Yup. I just dump them into the sump or put them under the fill hose during water changes. One time I added too much to my 40g and the fish flashed a bit, but they otherwise ignore it.ssam said:So you say its okey, if you mix all 3 ingridients in the dry state, and dissove them when you use them?
The Cichlid Fishes of the Great Lakes of Africa, Fryer & IlesGerry Binczik said:
As a rule, reef salts, as opposed to marine salts for fish, have more calcium in them. Marine salts that claim high numbers of trace elements as another rule include all the contaminants from their recipe ingredients. These may but probably won't be in proportion to the amount of that element found in real sea water. Calcium is used by growing corals but won't be used up by fish in a marine reef only tank. Salts and minerals do not evaporate, so unless they are being absorbed by a life process, they will build up in the water with every bit of evaporation.ssam said:As i sayed before, Iodine umongst more that 70 other minerals and basic elements is in most reef salts ? Thats why im using the special reef salt, and the improvement in the fish is awesome with this buffer. The colour up much more, and the black spots (wich i had a problem with) are almost gone on the fish!!
Also they have a greater appetite i think. Grazing on algee much more...