@erkcichlid make sure you're still adding ammonia at least every other day to keep feeding your ammonia-nitrite converting bacteria (nitrosonomas). It is a different type of bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate (nitrobacter) and it should take about the same amount of time for nitrite to drop to zero as it took ammonia to drop to zero.
You can do water changes if you'd like - most have always said that nitrite in too high concentrations can slow the beneficial bacteria growth and make cycling take longer. Other research says the concentration doesn't really matter (in fact that higher concentrations might speed growth) but you do need to watch your pH as the conversion of ammonia to nitrite can cause pH to drop and lower pH does slow and eventually stop bacteria growth if it gets too low. So the water changes can be a benefit by replenishing your buffers and making sure pH doesn't drop while waiting for the cycle to finish. You could also add baking soda to keep your pH up as well.
You're doing well and right on track with what I'd expect IMO. I've currently been waiting 4 weeks for nitrite to appear in my sump I'm trying to fishless cycle and not really understanding what's taking so long.
Also final note, not sure if you're using API or some other test kit but be aware that you should not usually run the nitrate test while nitrites are present. It will not give you a real result. Nitrites show up in the Nitrate result. What I remember was that the Nitrate test works by first converting the nitrate to nitrite and then measuring the color by the nitrite concentration, which is why both nitrite and nitrate show up in the nitrate test. You're cycled once nitrite drops to zero, not when nitrates show up.
Thanks for the feed back. Yes i am using an API test kit. My Ph is about 7.6 i believe as high range shows light brown colour and normal ph drop shows dark blue. I am dosing fish food on a daily basis and have a mystery snail in the tank that has doubled in size last 2 weeks. Ammonia reading shows 0. I tust about 24 hrs after feeding tank. I think i am going to just wait it out without doing water changes. Hopefully i test one night and see nitrites coming down.
When i see ammonia and nitrite at 0 for a couple days in a row i was thinking of doing a 90% water change. Would that be the right approach.
After water change i will work on kh currently at 4 drops and gh which is at 5 drops. I was thinking of making mixture of epsom salt, baking soda. Would you have any idea on quantities required to increase kh and gh by 4 degrees. My tap water tested at 1 drop for kh and 1 drop for gh.any ideas
I think it took about 26 days for nitrite to read 0ppm, on my tank. You will start to question if your cycle has stalled but just persevere. I was performing 25% water changes daily and adding ammonia every 2nd day. It takes time but does eventually get there. I also had similar parameters
PH - 7.6
KH - 2
GH - 4
In a 5 U.S gallon bucket I added 1 teaspoon of bicarbonate soda and 1 teaspoon of epsom salts this took parameters to
PH - 8.2
KH - 11
GH - 11
Start with 1/2 teaspoon then check parameters.
I can't comment on coral etc as I don't use it. If you do use it you will just have to keep checking parameters and adjust amounts accordingly
GH and KH of 8 is fine, I would not tinker further with your parameters.
What are the dimensions of your tank? 25 is a huge number for an all-male tank...even if your tank is 72". If you have cycled with ammonia I would add them all at once so that you don't lose the bacteria you have built up.
For all male you want no fish that look alike. It would be hard to get 25 peacock males that look nothing alike.
Congrats on finishing cycling! Looks like it only took about 10 days for the nitrite to disappear. That's a truly envious result as I'm 34 days in and still waiting for ammonia to turn to nitrite.
It sounds like your crushed coral and shells are working if they've raised your KH and GH to 8drops from 1drop out of the tap. But, that is after weeks of cycling with probably minimal water changes? Not sure if it will be as effective once you have fish and switch to a weekly w/c schedule. Your tap ph of 7.6 should be fine for peacocks so as long as your coral and shells add KH faster than the bioload removes it (KH is used by the nitrifying bacteria) my advice would be don't buffer unless you really have to. With "have to" being defined as, if there is a big difference in pH before vs. after your weekly water changes.
I'd be interested in hearing what peacocks you plan to stock with. Are you going to have multiple males of the same type? I was finding it difficult to identify more than a handful of individual species without duplicating or choosing a species to close in appearance to another already selected.
Any reason not to add them all at once? Usually you can with fishless cycling. But iirc you cycled with food so it's harder to know what bioload you were simulating during cycling.