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I own the Eheim 2217 (Classic) and I was wondering how i should place the media?

The classic canister is just one BIG canister, no baskets. So, You have to stack the media in the canister freely (seperated by coarse/fine sponges)
I will be using this filter primarily for Biological AND the intake will have Pre-Filters on them.

I was wondering what would be better?
Place the media in bags all the way to the top with NO sponges? Or, Stacking the media freely, separated by sponges within the canister?

I will be using more then one canister in my setup, I figure with the amount of fish I will keep, the tank will be overstocked and I want to have enough biological filtration.
So i figured (2) 2217 filters run with MEDIA and the other single 2217 will be for MECHANICAL filtration (Only Course sponges with a fine sponge at the last stage)

I'm figuring with this setup, i'll only have to clean the "Pre-Filters" when the output slows and rarely have to clean the 2217 canisters with the MEDIA.
However the single canister with the MECHANICAL filtration and "Pre-Filter" will have to be cleaned more often.

So the question is...

How should I place the MEDIA in the canister filters?
 

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I would place the media loose since bags take up some room and also use at least one Eheim blue coarse sponge at the bottom and one fine white pad before the bio-media.

IMHO even with a pre-filter on the intake strainer, fine debris will still get into the filter so you will need to monitor a bio only set up to avoid clogging the bio-media.

Don't count on using mostly bio-media to overcome a heavily stocked tank.
 

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Deeda said:
Don't count on using mostly bio-media to overcome a heavily stocked tank.
Can you clarify what you mean by this Dee?

I had a Sun Sun 302 **** out on me, so I picked up a Fluval 306 for my 55g. They factory stock with a huge course sponge that runs vertically in canister, folllowed by 3 trays. I took the medium sponge out of bottom tray in favor of more bio media and put filter floss at bottom of the middle and top trays.

Water clarity has been amazing and I have seen huge declines in Nitrite and Nitrate (previously 2ppm and 80ppm. Now 0ppm and 20ppm).

I thought more bio media (I use mix of Biomax and Hydroton) means even more surface area For denitrifying bacteria to grow. Wouldn't that overcome bad bacteria created by large bioload?
 

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doosty said:
Deeda said:
Don't count on using mostly bio-media to overcome a heavily stocked tank.
Can you clarify what you mean by this Dee?

I had a Sun Sun 302 #%$& out on me, so I picked up a Fluval 306 for my 55g. They factory stock with a huge course sponge that runs vertically in canister, folllowed by 3 trays. I took the medium sponge out of bottom tray in favor of more bio media and put filter floss at bottom of the middle and top trays.

Water clarity has been amazing and I have seen huge declines in Nitrite and Nitrate (previously 2ppm and 80ppm. Now 0ppm and 20ppm).

I thought more bio media (I use mix of Biomax and Hydroton) means even more surface area For denitrifying bacteria to grow. Wouldn't that overcome bad bacteria created by large bioload?
Are you currently cycling your tank / filters? If not, you shouldn't have ANY nitrItes in your tank if it's cycled.

As far as overcoming a bioload, no matter how many filters and no matter how much media you use you still need to do water changes to bring down nitrAtes. 80ppm is on the high side. Your tank is telling you that you need to do more water changes.
 

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Doosty, nitrate is the end result of the nitrification process so there really aren't any more good bacteria to consume it unlike ammonia and nitrite.

For all practical purposes in freshwater aquariums, the ways to remove nitrate are through regular water changes, more frequent cleaning of filter media or the use of live plants that consume enough nitrate so that you don't see much of an increase during the week.
 
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