Cichlid Fish Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have 2 fishes in a 35 gal tank - blood parrot and a red tailed shark. Both are 10 years old. Few weeks back, blood parrot was showing symptoms of swim bladder as she was swimming vertically with nose down. Based on suggestion from a nearby pet store, I did a couple of weeks food based treatment of Seachem kanaplex and Seachem focus. There have been couple of water changes as well since then. But now the blood parrot is staying practically near the top of the tank (picture below). She used to roam around and sleep inside the house but she is not moving from that spot now. She is still eating though. After eating, she goes back to that spot. When she tries to come down, her swimming pattern looks unstable and then she goes back there. Pls guide.

Water Vertebrate Fluid Organism Pet supply
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,176 Posts
Sorry your Blood Parrot is not feeling well.
Your 14-day, food-borne treatment of the Seacheam Kanaplex and Focus looks like it produced some beneficial results. And, treating through a full, 14-day cycle is a very good thing when using anti-biotics.
I would personally do the following to continue treatment....
  • Give the Blood Parrot a break from the medication regimen for 5 - 7 days. Continue to push high percentage/high frequency water changes through his aquarium. The idea being to flush those Nitrates, Phosphates and other undesirable things out of the water of the tank, to lower the bacteria growing in there to as low an amount as physically possible.
  • After the 5 - 7 day rest period, begin food-borne treatment with Seachem Metroplex. Same protocol, and continue the treatment regimen for a full 14 to 17 day period. During treatment, continue the heavy tank maintenance routine and do not hold back on those water changes. Keeping things as scrupulously clean as possible in the tank and water will definitely help to promote healing in your sick Blood Parrot.
After full treatment with the Metroplex (Metronizadole), give the Blood Parrot another 5 - 7 day break and observe closely. Hopefully, any remnants of the internal infection will have been removed at least.... But unfortunately, a fish that has experienced heavy damage from a severe internal infection may not be physically able to come 'all of the way back'. That is, scarring or other damage may have so adversely affected the swim bladder or other internal organs, that full recovery from the infection just isn't possible. A Cichlid or other fish that has been damaged severely by an internal infection like that however, can still have a pretty normal (if obviously a bit different) sort of lifestyle in the aquarium. And can live pretty comfortably for several more years, if kept correctly. :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,176 Posts
Who knows?!!
Those crazy, man-made hybrid things are just chock-full of more questions, than answers it seems.
I've seen some (exceptional?) ones push past 13 - 14 years. Others, lucky to hit 8 years before they have checked out.
-
And yes.... it is entirely possible in this case that the sick Blood Parrot is just a geriatric fish, that may not have much 'gas left in the tank'. :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the response folks. Really appreciate it. I totally understand that they are old now but I have to try my best to keep them comfortable.

Couple of questions on the Metroplex treatment:
  1. Can you pls confirm if this is the right approach to give food-borne medicine?
    1. In a small quantity of water, mix a scoop each of metroplex and focus
    2. Soak food in this mixed water. I usually give peas or flakes which I can soak in this medicine water for 15-20 mins.
    3. Give them this food.
  2. Is it OK to pour the remaining water (with meds mixed in it) into the tank? I am not sure how much med intake actually happens through food.
  3. Should I keep the carbon filter layer during the 14 days treatment? I am using chemi-pure as the carbon filter.
  4. Lately I also started epsom salt bath for the blood parrot where I take her out of the tank into a salt bath for 15 mins. Frequency of this is 2-3 days. Should I continue doing this? It does seem to help her even if for a few mins.
And it seems I can do water changes during the treatment as you mentioned above. I do a ~40% water change every 5-6 days.

Thank you!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,176 Posts
Well....
I think I now understand why you have such a long-lived Blood Parrot. ;)
Here's some A's for those Q's,
1. I mix the food-borne medication just like you are doing. A bit of RO or tank water is pre-mixed with the medication first. Then dry flake or pellet is placed in the bowl to absorb the medication. Feed it out!
2. I don't recommend adding any additional meds to the tank. Fish don't drink water. And very little, if any, medication is absorbed through the skin or gills from the water. Getting those antibiotics into their gut/internals is the best way to treat them for a problem like yours is experiencing.
3. Yes. But, be careful. Long-term Activated Carbon/Charcoal has been proven to be a known causal agent in HLLE/HITH in Cichlids. Your Blood Parrot is a New World type of Cichlid that is prone to that problem. I reserve the use of Activated Carbon/Charcoal to remove water-borne meds (Anti-fungals) or to clear up possibly undesired 'tea stained' water from new wood pieces or some other thing. I don't recommend leaving Activated Carbon/Charcoal in the water of the aquarium longer than a maximum of 30 days.
4. The Epsom salts are great to use in a gentle treatment for Cichlids. If yours seems to respond to that Epsom Salt bath in positive fashion? Then sure, keep doing it!
5. Won't hurt to check your water for the measured level of Nitrates after doing one of those 40 percent water changes. If you are bringing the measured Nitrates down below 20 PPM in the water immediately after each water change? Then you're on the right track!
-
Otherwise, it seems like you are doing pretty all you can for this old-timer. Keep up the great work! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi folks, updates so far. Today was day 14 of the Metroplex + focus food borne treatment. There have not been any major improvements in the health of the blood parrot unfortunately. She is still hanging around the top surface of the tank. She is still eating though so I guess that's a good thing. Even when she goes inside the house for sometime, she barely moves. I wish I could do more to fix this swim bladder issue but this one doesn't seem to go away.

I have a question on the points you had mentioned about the activated carbon layer. In the filter, there are 3 layers and the middle layer is of activated carbon. Recently I started using chemi-pure as the carbon layer. Are you suggesting to by default keep only 2 layers in the filter and add the activated carbon layer for meds removal, etc., and then take it out again? Pls clarify.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,176 Posts
Sorry to hear that your Blood Parrot is just not responding to that treatment. Old things have a much harder recovery process from these problems, than younger ones do.
So, Activated Carbon/Charcoal. Chemi-pure? This posting thread get's into that a bit towards the end,
And, my observations about Chemical Filtration in that thread,
Oh yes.... the water clarity thing.
And yes, Activated Carbon/Charcoal media will clear up your water a bit, if you aren't happy with it. Typically utilized to clarify 'tea stained' water with tannins in it to reduce the PH, the Activated Carbon/Charcoal media will work to remove that (harmless) stuff and clarify your water. The problems start happening when that chemical media is left in service too long.
To explain - over time, that media will sort of 'fill up' with the stuff it has captured from the water. When that happens, that old stuff in the media will start leaching back out of the chemical media and in to the water of the aquarium. And after weeks of being worked on in that media by various bacteria and some potentially harmful other pathogens... that old stuff crawling back into the water of your aquarium, is gonna be REALLY nasty.
That's why I don't recommend using ANY chemical media product longer than is absolutely necessary. And certainly no longer in duration than a maximum of 30 days.
Hopefully that helps?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top