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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At first when I setup the tank, I was told by the breeders I bought the fish from to keep the GH at 300 ppm, KH at 300 ppm and PH at 8.2.

My tap water is naturally 7.0, GH is 50 ppm and KH is 100 ppm. I have 75lbs of aragonite as substrate and 100 lbs of rocks with buffering properties. At first I was keeping both GH and PH at 300 ppm but after a few months, the buffering effect in the tank was good enough that just 1 teaspoon of Seachem buffer would keep my PH to 8.1 ppm.

When I do my weekly 50% WC, I add 6 teaspoons of cichlid salt and 1 teaspoon of Seachem buffer, which gives me these parameters : PH 8.1, GH 308ppm and KH 126 ppm.

After the water change, the fish flash for a few days. I make sure to match temperature, so what's bothering them must be the PH, GH or KH fluctuation.

So here's my question : what should I do to diminish or ideally stop the flashing after a water change ?

Thank you !
 

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Idech said:
When I do my weekly 50% WC, I add 6 teaspoons of cichlid salt and 1 teaspoon of Seachem buffer, which gives me these parameters : PH 8.1, GH 308ppm and KH 126 ppm.

After the water change, the fish flash for a few days. I make sure to match temperature, so what's bothering them must be the PH, GH or KH fluctuation.

So here's my question : what should I do to diminish or ideally stop the flashing after a water change ?

Thank you !
What's the pH, GH, and KH of your tank water right after your weekly wc? I personally think buffering substrate/rocks are a waste of time for those of us who do large weekly wc because they take too long to buffer the water.

My tap water is pH 6.4, GH 0, KH 0. I keep my tank water at pH 8.2, GH 12 (215ppm), KH 8 (143ppm) by adding a homemade buffering solution gradually throughout my tanks' refilling. I do 75% wc each week, never any fish flashing.
 

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I would add as the smallest amount chemicals possible to bump KH up over 5 drops and pH at or over 7.6 or higher. Minimizing the amount of chemicals you add should eliminate the irritation because the new water will be closer to the old water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ken31cay said:
What's the pH, GH, and KH of your tank water right after your weekly wc? I personally think buffering substrate/rocks are a waste of time for those of us who do large weekly wc because they take too long to buffer the water.

My tap water is pH 6.4, GH 0, KH 0. I keep my tank water at pH 8.2, GH 12 (215ppm), KH 8 (143ppm) by adding a homemade buffering solution gradually throughout my tanks' refilling. I do 75% wc each week, never any fish flashing.
I don't know, I usually wait 24 hours before testing. I'll test next time and report.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DJRansome said:
I would add as the smallest amount chemicals possible to bump KH up over 5 drops and pH at or over 7.6 or higher. Minimizing the amount of chemicals you add should eliminate the irritation because the new water will be closer to the old water.
My natural KH is about 5,5 drops (100 ppm) and GH is 2,8 drops (50 ppm). If I stop adding salt and buffer altogether, this is what my parameters would be. I'm pretty confident my PH would be 7.5-7.6 but I'd have to test.

So what you're saying is I could stop all chemical and just go with my tap water ?
 

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Idech said:
My natural KH is about 5,5 drops (100 ppm) and GH is 2,8 drops (50 ppm). If I stop adding salt and buffer altogether, this is what my parameters would be. I'm pretty confident my PH would be 7.5-7.6 but I'd have to test.

So what you're saying is I could stop all chemical and just go with my tap water ?
Yes I would stop all chemicals as your pH and KH out of the tap are fine. But transition back to your tap water very gradually, I would do this over change over a few weeks' 10% wc every other day.
 

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ken31cay said:
Idech said:
My natural KH is about 5,5 drops (100 ppm) and GH is 2,8 drops (50 ppm). If I stop adding salt and buffer altogether, this is what my parameters would be. I'm pretty confident my PH would be 7.5-7.6 but I'd have to test.

So what you're saying is I could stop all chemical and just go with my tap water ?
Yes I would stop all chemicals as your pH and KH out of the tap are fine. But transition back to your tap water very gradually, I would do this change over a few weeks' 10% wc every other day.
 
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