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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
They are on the aggressive side, but OK in a 55G and with yellow labs.
Am I gonna have much trouble mixing them? And would you say I MIGHT (once both are established) be able to pull off a 1:4 Demasoni with them or any other species?

Also, if I do Socolofi, could I put them in before the Yellow Labs (I only ask cause I only found ONE store that has them and they're on sale soon but if it's a bad idea I won't)
 

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I've never done it in a 55G but I've had them together no problem. Demasoni are not ideally kept in the 1m:4f grouping. They are a more difficult fish to keep than most mbuna and are best kept in groups of 12 or more.

When you stock species group by group you usually put the least aggressive species in first to let them claim territories and brace for the more aggressive species to come later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I've never done it in a 55G but I've had them together no problem. Demasoni are not ideally kept in the 1m:4f grouping. They are a more difficult fish to keep than most mbuna and are best kept in groups of 12 or more.

When you stock species group by group you usually put the least aggressive species in first to let them claim territories and brace for the more aggressive species to come later.
Ah gotcha. And I guess a few Saulosi would not really work with yellow labs and Socolofi eh?

So I'd want the Yellow Labs first and then the Socolofi? How long did you say to wait apart? Like if I got 8 Yellow Labs let's say to start (in hopes of having 1:4) would it be like 2-4 weeks until adding Socolofi?
 

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You could do 1m:4f saulosi with white labs but not much intense blue. You would want to wait a month for 2 reasons: To allow the beneficial organisms to grow to support the new fish, and you would have to quarantine the socolofi for 3 weeks first in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You could do 1m:4f saulosi with white labs but not much intense blue. You would want to wait a month for 2 reasons: To allow the beneficial organisms to grow to support the new fish, and you would have to quarantine the socolofi for 3 weeks first in any case.
Wait so could Saulosi go with Socolofi or are those too similar in blue? The Yellow Labs are too similar to the female which is why you said White Labs?

So would 1:4 Saulosi, 1:4 White Labs, 1:4 Socolofi work together or no?
 

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Hara and saulosi are both blue barred fish, you would choose one or the other.

I personally like socolofi, although they do have a similar look to acei which you said you didn't like. An alternative to socolofi would be Metriaclima callainos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hara and saulosi are both blue barred fish, you would choose one or the other.

I personally like socolofi, although they do have a similar look to acei which you said you didn't like. An alternative to socolofi would be Metriaclima callainos.
Ah that's unfortunate, okay.

I think the Socolofi look nice (the blue powder one, right?), and the Acei do too I just found the Acei have more of a faded looking colour from what I've seen, but that seems to work in the Socolofi favour since they're more of a baby blue so it doesn't have the same effect from what I can tell (unless I'm looking at the wrong fish lol).

So I guess I have 2 stocking options then:
1. 5 White Labs, 5 Socolofi, 5 Saulosi (which gives me 1 normal blue barred and 4 yellow females).
2. 5 Yellow Labs, 5 Socolofi, and 5 of something else but what else could this option be?

Also, with this sort of stock, could I put 2-3 Synodontis Lucipinnis or would that be too much bioload at that point?

Lastly, if I CAN put the Syno catfish, would they be the first fish to add in? And with both Option 1 or Option 2, I assume that would be the correct order (the order I listed them in) to add them?
 

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Yes to 3 Synodontis lucipinnis. If you want the "something else" to be a blue barred mbuna, you have hit and rejected all the options:
Cynotilapia zebroides drab females
Demasoni does not often work in groups of five.
Dolphins too big
Saulosi, not sure what the problem is with them
Maison Reef, too aggressive

If you are OK with white for the something else, there is a Metriaclima callainos Pearl.

Personally I would do a saulosi species tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Yes to 3 Synodontis lucipinnis. If you want the "something else" to be a blue barred mbuna, you have hit and rejected all the options:
Cynotilapia zebroides drab females
Demasoni does not often work in groups of five.
Dolphins too big
Saulosi, not sure what the problem is with them
Maison Reef, too aggressive

If you are OK with white for the something else, there is a Metriaclima callainos Pearl.

Personally I would do a saulosi species tank.
Hmm good point.

If I did go with Acei, could I go Yellow Labs, Socolofi (Powder Blue), and Acei?

Also, does it matter which Acei? I see there's the standard Yellow Tail Acei but also the White Tail Acei which seem nice.
 

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Acei are too large for a 55G...I mentioned them as similar in appearance to socolofi...that does not mean they can substitute for socolofi in a 55G.

In my 72" tank I had acei and socolofi together. I wanted more contrast so I swapped out the socolofi. Later in my fish keeping career I also found the hara looked too similar to acei for me to have both in the same tank.

For a 75G acei (either Luwala or elegans Ngara) would be an option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Acei are too large for a 55G...I mentioned them as similar in appearance to socolofi...that does not mean they can substitute for socolofi in a 55G.

In my 72" tank I had acei and socolofi together. I wanted more contrast so I swapped out the socolofi. Later in my fish keeping career I also found the hara looked too similar to acei for me to have both in the same tank.

For a 75G acei (either Luwala or elegans Ngara) would be an option.
Oh..ugh...so realistically, what are my options for a 55G?

Yellow Labs, White Labs, Socolofi, Saulosi, Rusties, any other options? Demasoni seem to be a bad idea unless it's strictly a Demasoni tank only it seems?

One Option of 3 Species stock seems to be: White Labs, Socolofi, and Saulosi, right?
Is there a 2nd option with Yellow Labs and possibly Socolofi?

I'm getting so lost at this point, sorry lol
 

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I do feel we are going in circles, LOL. Basically any mbuna that is not too large or aggressive will work in a 55G. You personally have the additional requirement that the males and females be brilliantly colored.

These genera have species that would work:
Pseudotropheus
Cynotilapia
Metriaclima
Labidochromis
Chindongo
Iodotropheus
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I do feel we are going in circles, LOL. Basically any mbuna that is not too large or aggressive will work in a 55G. You personally have the additional requirement that the males and females be brilliantly colored.

These genera have species that would work:
Pseudotropheus
Cynotilapia
Metriaclima
Labidochromis
Chindongo
Iodotropheus
LOL I sincerely apologize!

The females don't have to be as vibrant as the males per sae, just preferred if they are since there's gonna be so many females, or at least decent coloration haha

Pseudotropheus includes Demasoni and Acei though, does it not? Which Acei are too big for a 55G you mentioned.

Cynotilapia are the lighter blue with some yellow in them?

Metriaclima I can't seem to find much info on strangely?

Labidochromis would include Yellow and White Labs right?

Chindongo are the Saulosi or are there other Chindongo? But again they fall under Pseudotropheus do they not? That's where I'm getting confused lol

And Iodotropheus would be Rusties or anything else?
 

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Cichlid-forum has species profiles for Lake Malawi here:
(76) Lake Malawi Cichlids | Cichlid Fish Forum (cichlid-forum.com)

We have considered most of the species that will work in your tank and fit your criteria. All you have to do is choose.

Genus names are changed fairly often as scientists "describe" the fish and assign it to a genus and species name. For example saulosi and demasoni were pseudotropheus and now they are chindongo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Cichlid-forum has species profiles for Lake Malawi here:
(76) Lake Malawi Cichlids | Cichlid Fish Forum (cichlid-forum.com)

We have considered most of the species that will work in your tank and fit your criteria. All you have to do is choose.

Genus names are changed fairly often as scientists "describe" the fish and assign it to a genus and species name. For example saulosi and demasoni were pseudotropheus and now they are chindongo.
Thanks, I'll check the link!

Oh, why did they change those fish name?

What about cycling? My QT is 20G and I'm using a piece of sponge from my Dad's established tank (though it was sitting in a baggy with water for 3 days then was in my Son's new tank for a week so unsure about bacteria culture in it), with Seachem Stability + Prime. I dosed 0.50ppm ammonia with Dr Tim's Ammonia 2 ish days ago. Last night readings were all the same. This morning they were 0.25 Ammonia and 0.25 Nitrites (0 Nitrates). My LFS has a 20% off this weekend. I heard mixed things about Stability + Prime, but do you know if I could get away with 8-9 Juveniles (1-2inches) in my 20G QT with these readings and using Stability + Prime? Or would it be a very bad idea and wipe the fish out?

I heard Prime makes the ammonia (and possibly Nitrites?) non toxic for 24-48 hours so I figured if I dose Prime daily maybe with the Stability and keep checking water parameters, and maybe some 25% water changes every 2nd day if need be if that would help. But would that work or would you recommend against that?
 

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I would recommend you have the 55G cycled with ammonia before buying any fish. Wait if you only have a 20G QT at this time. Allow at least six weeks for the cycle.

Prime does not completely remove these toxins, it is not meant to alleviate the need for cycling. Stability does not work IMO from reading posts on Cichlid-forum from people who have tried it.

What would happen if you THOUGHT the cycle was done, you bought fish and then found out you were still getting ammonia and nitrite? You would be facing daily 50% partial water changes (or 2X daily if test results so indicate) for the next 40 days or more. Our first recommendation when people ask what to do in this situation is to tell them to take the fish back to the fish store until the cycle is complete.
 
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