[John Doe]

within the past 3 weeks or so I stocked a 125 (26 juvie and sub-adult cichlids + 5 syno's), pulling the eheim 2217 I've had running for close to 10 years off the 75 that held my 5 remaining cichlids from years ago.

Last weekend I added a second brand new 2217. I seeded the new filter's bio-media using the "pre-filter" I have on my old canister (half the coarse filter from an aquaclear 500 - the big ac filter) I also switched pre-filters putting the new pre-filter on the old filter, and the established pre-filter on the new filter.

In the process of switching things up, I moved the existing filter to the opposite end of the tank, where I plugged it into the wrong powerstrip. It's on the one that controls the lights, so for the past couple of days every time I turned off the lights I turned off my primary bio-filter. It remained off for periods between 4 and 12 hours periodically for the past few days.

Have I killed the bacteria? I am buying a test kit today to monitor the water. Two of my new peacocks are dead this morning - a ngara and ruby red, and I see a bit of ich on a couple others, and several lethargic fish.

Any advice or info would be appreciated.

 

[prov356]

You may have lost some bacteria and you also may have pumped nitrite into the tank that was produced during the outtages. Run the ammonia and nitrite tests as soon as possible. In the meantime, I'd do some large water changes. It might be a good idea to pick up some ick medication, but check this article for methods of treating ick.

 

[John Doe]

Thanks, I am using the salt and high heat technique for the ich - I noticed the ich before realizing what was going on with the canister. hopefully neither will interfere with the bacteria recolonizing.

temp is 88, 3 tblspns of salt per 5 gallons, will do a waterchange after work, but will also need to readjust the salt

 

[Swerved]

Thanks, I am using the salt and high heat technique for the ich - I noticed the ich before realizing what was going on with the canister. hopefully neither will interfere with the bacteria recolonizing.

temp is 88, 3 tblspns of salt per 5 gallons, will do a waterchange after work, but will also need to readjust the salt

I've used this method with success, though my temperature was a couple of degrees less (~85 or so). My tank was cured in about 2-3 weeks. I stopped treatment and returned the tank to normal conditions gradually about a week after I saw the last signs of parasites on the fish. In doing this, I gradually brought the temperature down first. Afterward, several water changes (~30% every other day) for a few days, followed by one last big change (~50%) for the last one.

The only downside is that it generally takes a bit more time for this method to work, whereas your fish (depending on level of infection) may not have that luxury.

As for the bacteria, from what I've read it should be ok.

Good luck! :thumb:

 

[Glaneon]

I've had great luck with the no-copper ich treatment, called Kick-Ich. Had some Silver Dollars get it - never had to raise temp and didn't increase the amount of salt. It's a 14 day treatment - and not cheap, but it works great.

 

[John Doe]

I'm not the best at reading these test tubes, but ti looks like:

ammonia - 0.25 ppm
Nitrite - 0.5-1.0 ppm
Nitrate - 10 ppm

The fish seem more energetic now than the past 2 days.

 

[prov356]

I'm not the best at reading these test tubes, but ti looks like:

ammonia - 0.25 ppm
Nitrite - 0.5-1.0 ppm
Nitrate - 10 ppm

The fish seem more energetic now than the past 2 days.

Those aren't bad readings but keep up with the water changes, as they can work wonders. You can also try a detox product like Prime or Ammolock.

 

[John Doe]

thanks, still have to deal with the ich, and the dragonblood looks like it has a growth and cloudyness on its eye.

i think the bacteria must not have completely died off in the older filter leading to the ok readings now that it's running constantly.

 

[John Doe]

wrong thread