Cichlid Fish Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a month ago i noticed the ammonia on my cycled 55 was at .25 ppm.
I went out and bought ammonia remover/activated carbon for my AC and just stuffed it into my filter.

Since then it has been about 3 to 2 weeks and my ammonia levels still read .25ppm

I also have a 40 gal that I am sure is cycled but again it also shows .25ppm of ammonia

Tank readings
55gal/ph 8.0, temp 78, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 20ppm, ammonia .25ppm, GH 150ppm, KH 180ppm
40gal/ph 8.0, temp 80, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 10ppm, ammonia .25ppm, GH 150ppm, KH 180ppm

tap water conditioner- nutrafin aqua plus

what can i do?
thanks in advance
jasson
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,006 Posts
Double check the test kit against a known 0 level source like bottled spring water.

Then some info needed:

Does your tap water source contain chloramine?

Tanks size, filters, filter media?

Fish, species, quantity, and sizes?

Maintenace schedule? Filters? Water changes?

Do you get this reading even in between water changes? Does it ever vary?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not my kit, gave a reading of 0 on bottled water.

I don't know about the chloramine i would have to call the water company (will do)

55 gallon tank, two 50 aquaclears, from bottom to top, sponge, carbon, biomax one of the filters has a carbon/ammonia remover cartridges in it.

8 fish (aluonocara, livingstonii, steveni, accei, compressiceps, OB peacock, venustus, Copidichromis borleyi "red fin" and a skunk loach that i revcived today)

10 gallon water change every sunday, I rinse the filter media off with tank water every month) scrub the glass every other week for algae

never tested once *** taken out the 10 gallons but once i re-fill i check 3 hours after everything is settled and still .25ppm of ammonia
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
Test 24 hours after a water change. You should be reading zero with almost 10x filtration . Any dead fish or left over food in the tank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,006 Posts
never tested once I've taken out the 10 gallons but once i re-fill i check 3 hours after everything is settled and still .25ppm of ammonia
If your water supplier uses chloramine, the timing of the test could be the issue. Chloramine is an ammonia/chlorine bond. It's often used now because it's more stable then chlorine. The nutra fin breaks that bond and then binds up the ammonia into ammonium while neutralizing the chlorine. After a water change using water with chloramine, it's not unusual to get a slight ammonia reading. Try a series of tests to see if the level varies.

I don't see any other reason for your ammonia level, and considering the other tank is exhibiting this also, the common denominator may indeed be the source water. Your water supplier may have changed things, which may explain why this just showed up a month ago.

I'm not a fan of ammonia removers, btw. It's a bandaid really. The ammonia issue should be handled by your biofilter without the need for the remover. If this turns out to be from chloramine, and the ammonia zeroes out at some point after the water change, then it's really not a concern. Many deal with this as chloramine is in common use today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
flippercon:
I have had fish die from bloat, but after the last fish died i did like a 75% water change and which was like a month ago... no one has died nor has anyone had issues.
my fish never leave any food left over.

prov356:
So if its straight from my tap like that what should i do? i also have a live plant since a friend told me they take up ammonia but they take up alot of oxygen?

Should i get a buffer of some sort for the ammonia?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,006 Posts
We need to first find the source. You should be able to find your water report online. Google 'water quality report' and your supplier. Like for me, it'd be 'Cleveland water quality report'. See if there's chloramine in your tap. Then take readings a couple of times per day apart from water changes. The low level is probably bound up, so not a serious issue right now. If it's from the chloramine, nothing you need do except what you've been, dosing with the nutrafin after water changes. But, if it is chloramine, then the reading should go to 0 relatively quickly, say within a few hours after a water change. If it's a constant reading all the time, then we've got to look at some excess organic load or inhibition of nitrifying bacteria. But, find out about the chloramine and take some ammonia readings several hours apart over the course of the day and report back.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top