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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I have just about completed setup of 220gal tank. Currently I have a 75 with and eheim 2229 running about 5litres of substrat pro. I use a magnum 350 for mechanical. This has been adequate for the last two years with a bio load of 1 10" oscar, breeding pair of dempseys, 2 Chocolate chiclids, 2 parrot things, and one gold flake synodontis. I do about a 40% waterchange every two weeks, about ten% detritus pickup in between. I have lost one oscar to hole in the head, and other fish periodically. I know all along I should have been checking water quality, but the filter being established for two years caused my complacency.

The reason I bring this up is I just got ammonia and nitrite test kits as I will be moving fish into a 220gal. I tested the tap water to find close to 2ppm ammonia! Some recent research online has suggested to me the water company may be treating with choramine.
How do I get rid of it? Is this why I could do a 40% water change and upset the cycle of my tank and have losses? Or have the water smell like urine?

I have not found concrete answers online. Some suggest that chloramine will not leave the water naturally. That a chorine treatment must be given and then deal with the leftover ammonia. What complicates these findings is the "free amonia" vs "locked ammonia" terminology. Help! Chemist!

My 220 gallon has a eheim 2262 running almost 12liters of substrat pro and an fx5 for mechanical. I am trying to decide on fishless cycle for this tank or introducing the media from my 75 gallon in the fx5 and xfering the inhabitants right away. This find has caused me to stop and do some more reasearch.

Do I have to treat my water with chlorine removers and then have a sepparate bio filter to remove the ammonia? Is that ammonia a bio load in itself? Or is it trapped, or free or ????

I know this was a long post I appreciate any advice.
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