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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2 mature Cory's in a 60gallon tank of mixed African Cichlids. But all the algae takes away from the aquariums appeal. Is it possible for me to chemically rid my tank of "some" of this algae? I do not want to harm my Cory's.....I am not fond of the algae green/brown that sticks to ALL of my plants(plastic and cloth), and my rocks..... :fish:
 

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I would not add chemicals, there have been unconfirmed stories of them harming the fish. Better to solve the problem that is causing the algae.

Too much light? Only turn on tank lights for viewing, position tanks away from sunlight.

Too many nutrients? Partial water changes to keep nitrates below 20ppm. Make sure your substrate and filters are clean too. Feed less.

A bristlenose pleco can help with the glass.

My best success has been adding live plants, but that brings it's own associated work with it so there are easier ways to reduce algae. Just maybe not quite as effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, Plants are not something I had planned to add. This is due to my male cichlids are always digging.....I was trying to get either two Otocinclus or a school of Siamese algae eaters....Not so easy to find. The glass is not an issue, it is my plants and rocks need to be cleaned.....Anything wrong with either of these choices....? Thanks for your help.
 

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How long has the tank been running? Could the brown "algae" be diatoms? If yes they will go away on their own in a couple months.

Otos are generally too delicate to stand up to African cichlids. Siamese algae eaters should work if you stock 6 of them and have a large enough tank (75G or larger). I don't know how the SAE will work compatability-wise with cories...in fact cories are also generally too delicate to stand up to African cichlids and are not very happy at the pH=8 that the Africans enjoy.

Lots of water changes to keep nitrates (algae nutrients) under 20ppm and limiting your light should eliminate the green algae for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, I am sorry....I have two mature Synodontis with my cichlids. They all have been in the tank, since they were very young. It has been over 1 year....My water is crystal clear, but I get the dark algae build-up on the LimeStone rocks, which turns my white rock setting--- very dull in comparison to my colorful Labs and Zebras.....I find that taking these large rocks out to brush off the algae, upsets the tank mates and takes hrs. to settle everything back to a calm enviroment, again. I was hoping that settling in additional tank mates would just make life easier for all...in my tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would like to mention that I have tried Mystery Snails....They ate up that algae problem I had, but they were loved by my Labs, too much....That was a tough lesson, at the cost to the snails.
 

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DJRansome said:
Lots of water changes to keep nitrates (algae nutrients) under 20ppm and limiting your light should eliminate the algae for you.
How about this? I don't think you will be able to keep rocks white however.
 

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IME, CAEs and SAEs only harass fish that are aggressive themselves. My Cae now stands up to my cons, but leaves my danios alone. Once your Africans get big enough that the algae eater fits into their mouths, it'll be lights out for the SAE soon enough. I don't think they eat alot of algae though. I'd probably go with a bristlenose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks,

I have been getting conflicting infoe on everything I have read the past week. I want to do my homework, before I buy "anything".

Would you suggest one bristlenose Pleco for my 55G tank?
 

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Yes one bristlenose works for a 55G. I have one in every tank. I find mine do not eat algae from the plants though...because they are too heavy to rest on the leaves. They try, but it does not work.

Oh, just a note. Bristlenose don't always survive with Africans, especially mbuna IME. I have about a 60% success rate. The Africans are curious and nip. If the bristlenose is saavy enough to hide and he survives the first couple months, he should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK...I have added plants, but my pH keeps dropping! I added 4 plants: 2 Anubias nana and 2 Microsorium pteropus, with rubberbands to my limestones. I have needed to add my pH buffer 8.2 which I have always done, 2 days in a [email protected]$

What gives? The fish are fine, until the pH drops and many are at the surface, gulping.....
 

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The tank has been running for a year and the pH did not drop until you added live plants?

What is the measurement of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?

How long since substrate vacuuming and filter cleaning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Zero...for all three tests...

I had vacummed the gravel 1 week ago, and my fluval cleaned about 2 weeks ago. Should I remove the plants and rubberbands?

Thanks for your help......... :x
 

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If the tank has been running for a year, the nitrate test is probably wrong. Test that again but this time following the directions closely. People often get a false zero if they fail to shake hard enough for a full 30 seconds before mixing and a full 60 seconds after mixing.

If you have algae, there have to be some nutrients (nitrate usually) for it to live on.

I'm not sure what to tell you to do. This usually happens when your KH is low and your pH from the tap is high initially and drops 24 hours after it comes out of the tap. But people find out about this when they first set up the tank...not a year later. Because it would have been happening all along.

Weird that pH has been stable all this time and now you have the fluctuation.

What is the pH out of the tap immediately and again test it after it sits on the counter for 24 hours.

Sometimes too much organics in the water causes pH drop and that's why you are testing nitrates and let us know about filter cleaning, etc.

The plants should have nothing to do with a pH drop. If you had added CO2 maybe...but you did not mention that.
 

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Get yourself two or three small plecos or clown loaches. Both will keep your tank clean and control the algae
 
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