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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi People

As the title says so I have few questions

I will try and run the tank which is a 3x2x2 plus sump with most of the same equipment as I did when it was a Reef Tank less the skimmer .

The equipment which I will maybe use :-

2 X Mp40 circulation pumps ( Is this too much flow)

3 X Hydra HD26 Led lights ( not sure on lighting profile yet)

1 X Vectra M2 Return Pump

2 X 300 W heaters + controllers

My main worry is the sump and what to put in it
 

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What does the sump have in it now? When opting for fresh water vs. salt in my two sump setups everything remained the same except that I had no need for the skimmer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The sumps empty as now just with the usual baffles . It housed a skimmer + a Rowa reactor + ClariSea SK-3000. fleece filter which I dont think I will use .

Its what to put in each chamber to filter the water from the tank
 

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Welcome to the fresh water side of things. 8)
I like your system, esp. that sump filtration. And as mentioned, it's all about simplification now. For the sump, I would just fill one of the chambers with this porous rock stuff called 'Matrix'. Seachem makes and markets that product, I believe. But many other porous rock type materials are made and sold that would work just fine for this. You'll need a bit of pre-filter foam for the water to run through before it gets into your rocks. Cut down sheets of pond filtration foam worked for me, because it worked great and was cheap.
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As far as water current goes? Once again, that depends. If you are looking to set up a built-up rock mound to represent the hurly-burly conditions of an African Rift lake setup? You may want to keep all of the water flow in there. Many African cichlids on those freshwater reefs seem to enjoy that kind of thing, and there are always pockets of quieter water they can retire to in a tank like that when its time for a break from the games in there. :)
But, if you are looking to dive into New World cichlid stuff? Live plants and stuff like that are something to possibly consider, and your current light setup won't work very effectively for them. Plus, a 3X2X2 sized aquarium will be challenging to stock with very many South (or esp, Central) American cichlids in it. New World cichlids tend to be quite a bit more pugnacious than their African, freshwater reef counterparts, in enforcing territory and dominance with each other. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Auballagh said:
Welcome to the fresh water side of things. 8)
I like your system, esp. that sump filtration. And as mentioned, it's all about simplification now. For the sump, I would just fill one of the chambers with this porous rock stuff called 'Matrix'. Seachem makes and markets that product, I believe. But many other porous rock type materials are made and sold that would work just fine for this. You'll need a bit of pre-filter foam for the water to run through before it gets into your rocks. Cut down sheets of pond filtration foam worked for me, because it worked great and was cheap.
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As far as water current goes? Once again, that depends. If you are looking to set up a built-up rock mound to represent the hurly-burly conditions of an African Rift lake setup? You may want to keep all of the water flow in there. Many African cichlids on those freshwater reefs seem to enjoy that kind of thing, and there are always pockets of quieter water they can retire to in a tank like that when its time for a break from the games in there. :)
But, if you are looking to dive into New World cichlid stuff? Live plants and stuff like that are something to possibly consider, and your current light setup won't work very effectively for them. Plus, a 3X2X2 sized aquarium will be challenging to stock with very many South (or esp, Central) American cichlids in it. New World cichlids tend to be quite a bit more pugnacious than their African, freshwater reef counterparts, in enforcing territory and dominance with each other. :oops:
Cheers for your reply Auballagh
All of what you mentioned has just confirmed what I thought .
African Cichlids I feel will be the best option and that fits in nice with the two MP40's working apposed bit like a reef set up and as they have numerous settings I'm sure we can find something that suits.

The lighting was always going to be a makeshift as the fish dont seem as light dependant as marine fish but I feel that plants will not be added (not yet) so the light spectrum will not matter (I hope)

What sort of rocks and sub straight would you use in the display ?
 

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Awesome!
- Rocks/Structure: Go BIG baby! By that, I mean larger pieces will look more realistic, will stack easier together, and be much safer (Rock falls.... yikes!!!!) in the aquarium. In the former colonies, *ahem* we have access to this wondrous geologic material called 'Mountain Lace Rock'. It is gnarly, big and looks absolutely beautiful in an aquarium, (Google it!). Used as base material for saltwater reef tanks, it is the Prime Element in African Rift Lake setups. With the rocks, build all the way to the waters surface - and even a bit beyond! (open top tanks look extremely cool with internal structure that comes up ad out a bit like that). Unfortunately, the larger sized rock pieces will be more expensive to source out... But trust me, they are worth the investment and will look absolutely amazing in your aquarium.
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- Substrate: The really white and fine particle 'Play Sand' used to be the Hot Ticket to use as aquarium substrate material. Everyone found out though, that stuff easily winds up in electric filter impellors from constantly digging cichlids, and looks a little monochromatic (Too White?) for more well, 'informed' tastes these days it would seem. So, I have always used the larger particle Pool Filtration Sand (PFS). It visibly looks a lot more natural, doesn't come out as blinding white and just seems to look better in my opinion. I actually took things a step further with my own PFS, and mixed in very small diameter, natural colored gravel to it. The final look was almost exactly identical to what I had seen on cichlid collecting expeditions to Honduras and Mexico, in those rivers and streams. Perfect. :)
 

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Hmmmm... This may help:
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110G XH tank. African Rift Lake Cichlids, Mbuna. BIG Pieces of Mountain Lace Rock, w/Pool Filtration Sand... Wow, imagine that! :eek:
Hope this helps?
 

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With a 36" tank I would go with Tanganyikans. You may wish to decide on your species before you aquascape because some want shells, some want low caves, some want high caves, etc.

Agree 100% on pool filter sand. For me I like the rounded shapes of the river rocks and the smooth surface makes it hard for fish to injure themselves.
 

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I just don't think there's anything like cichlids. Some have more personality then some people I know. I think you'll be very happy with the choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Guys

Many thanks for you help and input and yesterday I bought some different pieces of Sandstone which will keep the Ph high and also its full of holes and caves . :D

I also got some blocks of different foam for the sump.

One question if I have a 3x2x2 plus sump who much Matrix do I need also does it need to be in a bag ?

Today will be looking for sub straight
 

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Wow, those are some good looking rocks! Were they naturally formed like that, or carved to create all of those holes and shapes?
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As far as the Matrix goes - I'm not really sure how much you'll need. If you are purchasing that stuff at a local fish store, it may be pretty easy to get more than you need and just return any unopened, unused containers. If you are sourcing that online, you may have to make a couple purchases to build up to the amount you need if you are worried about going over. As far as the bag thing goes, I've only seen that done with canister filters (Eheim esp.). For my own sumps, I just poured the matrix rock loose on top of egg crate for wet/dry filtration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just bought the below bits for the install
Caribsea Seaflor Special Grade Sand (40lb)
Seachem Matrix 2L
Eheim Ehfimech - 5 ltr (Mechanical Filtration)
slowly coming together
 

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Monkeynuts, have you tested your tap water source for GH and KH plus the other usual parameters?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Deeda said:
Monkeynuts, have you tested your tap water source for GH and KH plus the other usual parameters?
Will be using RO Water which I have made + seachem Chilid salt which I think is correct
 

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Monkeynuts said:
Deeda said:
Monkeynuts, have you tested your tap water source for GH and KH plus the other usual parameters?
Will be using RO Water which I have made + seachem Chilid salt which I think is correct
OK! Is your tap water problematic and that's why the decision to use RO and buffer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Deeda said:
Monkeynuts said:
Deeda said:
Monkeynuts, have you tested your tap water source for GH and KH plus the other usual parameters?
Will be using RO Water which I have made + seachem Chilid salt which I think is correct
OK! Is your tap water problematic and that's why the decision to use RO and buffer?
The tap water TDI is really high plus starting off with DI Water plus Buffers at least I know whats going in the tank
 
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