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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, so after adding my sail fin catfish to my 75g tank of 1jewel 1pleco 1frontsa 1bloodparrot and 7 peacock today (a week later) I noticed that most of the fish have white specs. After treating the tank with the "all cure" and water change and also raising the temp a bit I have just now lost my momma cichlid. I'm devastated but doing all I can I think. My jewelry is acting funny so I currently have her in a quarantine tank to see if it will improve her. But as for the rest i dont know what to do. My blood parrot is also acting funny but so are the others.. Shaking around the tank, bouncing off the bottom.. Here are a few pictures.. Sorry, they're bad bc I took them when doing a change.
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Although they are blurry on the blood parrot you can see that he looks super bumpy and rough, and the peacock you can see the white bumps right on the gill and top fin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
20200105_102202.jpg
 

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If you can give all your water parameters, how long the tank's been running, how long each fish(s) have been in tank, water change rountine, then something might jump out where we can help.

Fish diseases can be hard to diagnose by looking at photos even when they are close-up and very clear. Treating your fish with the wrong medication will do more harm than good.

In the past I've had more success doing the research myself by spending the time googling pics & reading articles/posts to form a proper diagnosis & treatment.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know it is ich, cant tell you the water parameters but the tank has been successfully running for 4 years with all these same fish(only have lost 2 moori but they were stressed and I couldn't calm them down) and it happened after adding the new fish (catfish). But as I stated its weird because it appears that not all of them are affected which leads me to believe I caught it sooner...I have two of them that now look like they are losing their slime coat along with the pleco. Not sure what that means but...hopefully I dont lose all of them...I'm so sad because of how long this tank has been going...
 

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A tank can run successfully with unsafe test results. How much water do you change every week?

It is normal to see ich only on some of the fish, at least at first. I am not familiar with all-cure so cannot make a recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
20% change a week but am now doing 25% with treatment. I switched to ich guard tablets bc my pet store sucks and didnt carry all cure. So its been treated twice. I actually have my male ob and jewel in a quarantine tank but the ob's eye is cloudy and lile i said, slime coat is way weird. I'll grab a pic of him now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
20200105_140144.jpg

Pointless pic bc the slime is **** near invisible to my lens apparently. Lol but hes very lethargic now and hes usually my vibrant "traditional" ob. The quarantine tank is right at 78. The main is at a steady 82 now that *** raised the temp over the past 24 hours or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
20200105_141210.jpg

Well you can kinda see the coating I'm talking about on him, literally looks like i need to take him out and wash his to get it off. Is this a reaction to the treatment or do you think its BC of the ich?
 

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Catfish shedding slime coat is a reaction to stress. Maybe the ich and/or the medicine.

Cloudy eye is not related to ich...you have something separate going on and it could be an injury which will get better in a day or two, or a reaction to water quality issues. Please post your test results for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. 50% weekly is a minimum for African Rift Lake cichlids, but do not change 50% until you have test results. Changing too much can kill your fish if you start doing it suddenly.

Regarding the ich, since you are sure, follow the directions on the bottle/package of whatever you are using. Some meds are not safe for catfish and some do not work well with a raised temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, after an all weekend ordeal I'm down to the catfish, frontosa and blood parrot as of this morning.. When I get home I'm doing a large change and transferring all (if theyre alive by then) to my 10g quarantine... Going to get test strips and such to verify any other issues and get it cycling.. So hurt.. )':
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Im buying the whole shebang.. Thanks <3
 

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Agree with Deeda. And so sorry for your losses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
20200106_162418.jpg

Not a pro at knowing water parameters but will be after this... What is wrong? :oops:
 

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I think you did the ammonia test incorrectly as I have never seen that color before. Rinse out the test tube and cap multiple times in tap water to remove any residue and try again.

The nitrite test is showing that there is nitrite present so if the test was done correctly you need to perform at least a 50% water change assuming you have been doing regular water changes.

The nitrate test is also an odd color.

Reread the test instructions for each test type and follow the instructions exactly including shaking the vials between reagent additions, the correct amount of time to shake them and how long to wait for the color to develop.

Since this is a new test kit, shake the individual reagent bottles before using them as the solutions may have separated and you'll get incorrect test results. Actually do this step 1st and retest all parameters in case your tests were inaccurate before you do a water change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
20200106_170631.jpg
Hey thanks, in such a hurry I forgot to shake them :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Clearly I need a big change but my ammonia isn't high right? Just the nitrites and nitrates. *** removed all the fish so I'm just going big and refilling I think.
 

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No problem!!

If those are the correct results, I still recommend do some daily water changes over the next couple days, maybe 30% each day and monitor fish behavior for stress related symptoms. The reason for smaller more frequent changes is because of the high nitrAte reading.

I'm not a fan of your nitrIte reading as it's harmful to fish so you want it as close to zero as possible.

PS,
just saw your last post, so if NO wildlife in the tank, do an 80% change, don't forget dechlorinator, wait an hour for the water to mix up in the tank (circulation) or so and retest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
*** just seen a few microscopic babies while moving around with the vacuum. *** gotta leave them but just gonna do a decent change and keep it going as recommended and keep retesting! I'll keep posting updates. Hopefully my remaining fish make it!
 

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Sounds good! I found it helpful to keep a tank parameters log with dates when setting up new tanks for the 1st few months or forever if you want. :D

PS, sometimes when you treat with medications it 'kills' off some or most of the good bacteria so you'll need to check whether the product you used did this.
 
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