Cichlid Fish Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My set up (in progress) is a 120DT & 40B sump. I'd like to mount the heaters horizontal after the first baffle of a Under-Over-Under bubble trap leading to the return chamber. What I'm pondering is utilizing either 3/16ths or 5/16th acrylic and cutting two lengths ~2"x 12" (baffles are spaced 2"), drill out holes in them that match the diameter of the heaters to effectively suspend the heaters in the water column. I know in air the heaters would melt the acrylic but my question is: with ~1100gph through the sump, would there be enough flow across the acrylic to prevent it from melting? Could this be accomplished by isolating the heaters from the acrylic with a rubber grommet?

I've attached the image I came across on another forum that gave me this idea; however, I would prefer a cleaner look. I've also attached a sketch of what I'm trying to explain.

I'm tempted to try this in an unused 55g I have sitting around. But want to seek thoughts/experience from others prior.

Mahalo!
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
I don't know if the heaters would melt the acrylic under water so can't advise on that.

Couple questions though, would the acrylic holder be removable from the sump or attached in the sump AND how will you slide the heaters out of the holder, that is will you have enough clearance for the length of the heater vs. the width of the sump.

You might want to check out This link of a DIY canister intake bracket holder I made using an acrylic wreath holder hanger. It also works great for hanging aquarium heaters though the style of heater bracket will vary between brands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Deeda said:
Couple questions though, would the acrylic holder be removable from the sump or attached in the sump AND how will you slide the heaters out of the holder, that is will you have enough clearance for the length of the heater vs. the width of the sump.
It would be removable--I'd cut the body to fit between the baffles but leave a ~1/4" wider tab at the top to sit on top of the baffle thus suspending the whole thing off the bottom.

Deeda said:
You might want to check out This link of a DIY canister intake bracket holder I made using an acrylic wreath holder hanger. It also works great for hanging aquarium heaters though the style of heater bracket will vary between brands.
I saw something similar to the link you shared on another forum and like that idea (a lot) but the titanium heater I have doesn't have a that body clip--just a couple worn out suction cups with molded loops that go around the heater body.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
Can you remove the suction cups from the molded loops and see if there is enough space to drill a hole in the nub? I also did that on the individual 'clips' for either a heater or canister filter.

Another option if you didn't want to go through the process of installing baffles in the sump is to use vertically installed pieces of Poret foam filter media. It has become a popular option for some aquarists. I use it as an air driven filter in smaller tanks but have no experience using a sump!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have some excess 3/16" acrylic laying around so I went ahead cut a couple pieces to try. Plan is to fill just the sump to operational height and have the pump just circulate back into the first chamber. Will heat the water to room temp with heater suspended over the side then put it into the acrylic and monitor it. Still need to sand the inside of the holes but will give it a go this evening!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Happy to report no issues regarding overheating the acrylic.

Ended up putting the heater in place immediately after filling sump with tap water (~56*F) and let it circulate until the water reached 70*. Initially, a concern was am I seeing no overheating of the acrylic due to the higher flow rate while circulating only within the sump than will be observed once plumbed to the DT. To test this I turned the pump off for ~5min while the heater was still on. Even after this period the acrylic showed no signs of melting.

Next step I will cut new pieces that fit snuggly between the baffles and drill additional holes for a second heater ~3" below the top location.
 

Attachments

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top