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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have started building my 220 gallon tank, so far I'm not that far along but I'll share what I have and see if the inovated members of this forum can help me along the way. I have almost all the things I need minus some odds and ends.

Ok first thing I got it in the house :) ....... with the help of 3 freinds

My dog didn't help I don't know why hes sleeping theres more work to be done :? :zz:


I've also got my UGJ system done, first I laid out all the peices were I wanted the jets.


Then I cut them all to size and fitted them to gether to make sure they were right and added the jets( I've been known to make mistakes :) )



Next I've drilled out the holes for my over flows and return pipes to the UGJ system. As you can see it chiped a little bit when the whole saw came thrue, it's my first time drilling glass :-? I think the gaskett for the bulk heads will cover it up, but I will use a bead of sillicone around it for good measure.



These were the diomond tip whole saws I used to drill my tank



I also called 3M and got a sample kit from them and chose the white S Grade and picked up my sand



Ok now I was wondering if you all could help me, I was wondering witch is better for the stand pipe, a duriso or a regular slanted stand pipe? And I've heard people talk about the water syphoning back into the sump because the check valve didnt work right when the power went out. Is there another way to prevent this along with a check valve like two back ups? I don't want my tank to empty onto the floor :eek: .

Right now I'm in the middle of aquiring a table saw so I can cut my plexi glass and make my sumps and over flow boxes as soon as that's done I will go to work on making the back ground for my tank.

Hear is a rough design on my sump any sugestions or coments on this or anything else are welcomed and wanted :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My other half must have been drunk this morning :) she told me I could get another 220 WOOT WOOT But we will see. I hope to get a table saw soon its holding me up soo bad :( I might just go to one of my old employers and ask them if they would let me use there saw for an hour.
 

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your first two jets connected in a straight line to the pump outlet will get a lot of the flow from the pump. This will make it really powerful, and the other jets not so much at all. You could always test it with a low level of water.

And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.

Other than that, get the other 220 before she changes her mind. ;)
 

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looks nice and big.beautiful g.shepherd i got 2 myself.what are your plans for the back ground?have you thought about using a biotower in the first chamber of your sump instead of just the drain?then use pillow stuffing (which is cheap) for mechanical filtration in the second chamber?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
narhay said:
your first two jets connected in a straight line to the pump outlet will get a lot of the flow from the pump. This will make it really powerful, and the other jets not so much at all. You could always test it with a low level of water.
I could always move the return line to the center of the UGJ line to try and even it out what do you think will that work better?

narhay said:
And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.
I think I'll have to experiment with this to see how/if it will work

narhay said:
Other than that, get the other 220 before she changes her mind. ;)
I agree and if I can scrape up the money theres the catch :( any donations to my new cause????? :p

narhay said:
Was that bottom glass tempered? The chips might be part of that.
I don't think so it's a perfecto tank and I called them and checked the markings on the tank and they said it wasnt temperd glass that they had stoped useing it

fishwolfe said:
looks nice and big.beautiful g.shepherd i got 2 myself.what are your plans for the back ground?have you thought about using a biotower in the first chamber of your sump instead of just the drain?then use pillow stuffing (which is cheap) for mechanical filtration in the second chamber?
For the background I pland on useing 2 2" thick styrofom glued together than some quickqreat and honestly I hadn't thought much about the bio towers as I'm not familar with them the filter media I have is fairly cheap itself like $5.00 for the filter floss http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/196891/product.web , and the dog is a simple a$$ :D but I love himhes cool... lazy but cool

swamptrout said:
what pump you using on ther UGJ?
Actualy I was going to have two sumps and both pumps are a pond master mag 12
 

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narhay said:
And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.
this is easily fixed by having an opening for the water should it slow down too much through the media where it'll drop into the pump chamber......
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is tur I was thinking about doing some thing like that, I wanted to cut the plexi glass that the media was on a little smaller than it neede to be so I could pop them out for matinance I guess tha would help/solve the problem do you think?
 

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I was wondering where you are getting you 3M colorquartz from. Do you have a distributor around you or are you getting it straight from the company. I know that alot of people are interested in getting thier hands on some of the stuff since it is alot cheaper than the tahitian moon sand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I called them for the sample kit ( free by the way) and a list of suplyers in my area. I had to drive 1 hour each way but I thought it was worth it I can't wait to see it in my tank try hear http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... p/Contact/ its color quarts crystals I think or some thing I dont remember what they called it. I got white and think it was around $20.00-$28.00 for a 50lb bag I got 300lbs of it. ummmm I think thats about right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
MMMMM........ I duno I have about a total of 6-7 gallons of bio balls going in mine I think it will be efective enugh. actualy the design I'm useing isn't that much different than that bio tower. Mine is just designd a little differnt and I think it will be pretty quiet this way.

Click to enlarge
 

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MightyWarMonger said:
Next I've drilled out the holes for my over flows and return pipes to the UGJ system. As you can see it chiped a little bit when the whole saw came thrue, it's my first time drilling glass :-? I think the gaskett for the bulk heads will cover it up, but I will use a bead of sillicone around it for good measure.

Chips are no good man. They can cause pressure cracks and that could lead to 220 gallons on the floor.

Also, are those two holes you drilled on the back your return feeds? Is so, I see DISASTER written all over it. If the power goes out the USJ system will just be a giant siphon and you'll again have 220 gallons on your floor. Seeing how there is no way to do a siphon break. And if you say you are going to use check valves. They fail more often then they work.

But that is what I see as potentially problematic. If either occur chances are you'll most likely have dead fish inside your tank.

Hopefully nothing goes wrong.
 

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Yo Dude,
Nice tank mate, Chipped the holes, Bugger. I work at a public aquarium and have drilled tanks b4 with chips. Make sure that you overkill the foam under the tank to really EVENLY spread the load and DON'T use Silicon on the Bulk Head. If there is ANY movement in the bulk head once the silcon e is dry the seal will break and your bulk head will ALWAYS leak - not good - The good news, use heaps of Silicon based Lube (o-ring lube high quality), this will be your best bet.

Good luck and have Fun
 

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Also, I assume your tank has a floating base (new tanks always do) it mean that the edges come down to the bottom and the base fits inside them (as aposed to the edges sitting on the base (older design)). If this is the case it maybe worth putting a ridged peice of plywood between the stand and tank (i can see that there is only edge support and a center brace) Drill the plywood to fit your holes in the tank and then use thick (ish) styrofome. This will be your best bet regarding stress fractures in the base originating from the chipped holes. Also make sure it is 100% level (duh)

Take my opinion into account, sure, but it is just my opinion :)

ciao
 

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you should have temp siliconed some glass under where you were drilling to help prevent chips, or dilled from both sides into the center of the glass. I hope it was not tempered glass, i think it would have exploded if it was but if it is and you drilled it it will exploded as soon as you add water.

I am not liking the chips, i would at the least put more glass under them and use a wide flange bulkhead.

as for the UGJs going through the bottom, well you can NOT use a sump system now. it has to be a pressurized filter system no other way. you could take the UGJ pipes all the way up the back wall do the siphon break and then all the way back down to the bulkheads.

I did my UGJ from the bottom, but it went up to a T for a spray bar and then down to the ugjs. I controlled the UGJ and spray bar by using a shutoff value. this way the spray bar acted as a siphon break and it could never drain the whole tank onto the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
IrkedCitizen said:
Chips are no good man. They can cause pressure cracks and that could lead to 220 gallons on the floor.
This was a concern of mine but I'm not real experianced with it so any sugestions and what are the odds I will have a problem?

Mat Harvey said:
Yo Dude,
Nice tank mate, Chipped the holes, Bugger. I work at a public aquarium and have drilled tanks b4 with chips. Make sure that you overkill the foam under the tank to really EVENLY spread the load and DON'T use Silicon on the Bulk Head. If there is ANY movement in the bulk head once the silcon e is dry the seal will break and your bulk head will ALWAYS leak - not good - The good news, use heaps of Silicon based Lube (o-ring lube high quality), this will be your best bet.
Ok use heaps of Silicon based Lube could you explane this a little more like were to aply it and were to get it from.

Mat Harvey said:
Also, I assume your tank has a floating base (new tanks always do) it mean that the edges come down to the bottom and the base fits inside them (as aposed to the edges sitting on the base (older design)). If this is the case it maybe worth putting a ridged peice of plywood between the stand and tank (i can see that there is only edge support and a center brace) Drill the plywood to fit your holes in the tank and then use thick (ish) styrofome. This will be your best bet regarding stress fractures in the base originating from the chipped holes. Also make sure it is 100% level (duh)

ciao
I will try this and how thick is thick ish? like 1/2" 3/4" 1/4" ?

lomax said:
you should have temp siliconed some glass under where you were drilling to help prevent chips, or dilled from both sides into the center of the glass. I hope it was not tempered glass, i think it would have exploded if it was but if it is and you drilled it it will exploded as soon as you add water.

I am not liking the chips, i would at the least put more glass under them and use a wide flange bulkhead.
I don't like the chips eiather but I have to deal with it now :(, also could you explane how you would put more glass under them?

lomax said:
I did my UGJ from the bottom, but it went up to a T for a spray bar and then down to the ugjs. I controlled the UGJ and spray bar by using a shutoff value. this way the spray bar acted as a siphon break and it could never drain the whole tank onto the floor.
I like this idea and think I will try this route.

Ok now I'm getting nervouse about the chips what are my odds as far as it breaking or cracking 50/50 ? I will try the above mentioned sugestions does any one have any others that would help? Also as a side note I will be getting my table saw thursday so hopefuly I will the sumps built next week some time :)
 

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Dont stress to much about the chips mate. I have never had one blow from small chips around a hole. Just take all the precautions given.

Silcone lube - you should be able to get this from a hardware shop. It is commonly used to grease O rings. failing that, you will be able to get some from a SCUBA dive shop (although prob a little more expensive). apply lots to all the shims and other surfaces that are sandwiched between the bulkhead and the bottom of the tank.

With the timber under the tank, what you need is a ridged base. So 3/4'' wouldn't hurt to be on the safe side. Make sure its 100% level and flat (no room for even the slightest error here) and use a sheet of styrofom on top of that (duh... :wink: )

I like Lomax idea, if you can glue another piece of glass on the bottom and drill through that too (without chipping it) it would reinforce any weakness caused by the chips. Obviously it would cost a bit, but would be better than loosing the whole tank....

have fun with the sump.... i'm building one today with WD and with one of those syphon overflows (don't want to drill my tank) check it out:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=149594
 
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