Lake Tanganyika Species • Just got a 125 gal for trophs!!

Discussion regarding only Lake Tanganyika species.

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Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:48 am

In case you should miss my other post here is a link to the thread that has those photos of the yellow background.

https://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=148814

24T,

Ilangi run about $15-20 more a fish over most other Tropheus. It is set at that price because of demand, and somewhat rare find in the lake. Most of the demand is generated in the fish mostly from the Konnings photos, but they are indeed a beautiful fish.

I think they are far from the best looking Tropheus, but that is only matter of opinion.

Take care,

Geoff
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

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Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:02 pm

So, I guess the majority opinion is that if I use the black sand it will hinder the coloration of the colony. That kinda sux since I have almost 400 lbs of it. Guess I'll just save that for my dream tank when I get a house.

On that note, what sand should I get for the Troph's? I'm looking for something that isnt too pricey, but will do the job of bringing out good coloration.

What should I get?

Also, anybody have thoughts on my spray bar idea?

I really appreciate the help. This is going to be my first time with troph's and I really want to do it right!

I'm getting a two week supply of food from the supplier for the trophs when they come. Also, I've read that it is best to have some medication on hand, (which hopefully will never be need). What is the medication?

Thanks everybody! 8)
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:40 pm

The Medication you want on hand is CLOUT - 100 tabs count bottle. You can get it from Dr.Foster and SMith for about $18 a bottle.

The spray bar works fine for the XP3, the FX5 does not come with a spray bar. Are you looking to make one? If so, I think it would work fine.

Cheap sand...the best cheap sand I know a number of people use is Pool Filter Sand that you can get at Walmart or some Pool Supply House for about $8 per 50lb bag of it.

In a 125 gallon aquarium, dimensions are 6ft x 18 in, if you want a 1" deep sand bed, which I would not go much deeper than that, you will need about 2-50lb bags. 2-50lb bags, will give you 1.5" of coverage.

You could always use the Black Sand, then if you found that you did not like it, then change it. You may find you like it anyway..but I have to agree with most others, that Ilangi will look better on light substrate and light backgrounds.

Hope this helps...

Geoff
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:57 pm

I was planning on making a pvc spray bar for the filters. Maybe one in the front aim downward to create a flow moving the water front to back across the bottom of the tank, and I hadnt decided where to place the second spray bar if I used two of them.

Is pool filter sand silica sand? If so, doesnt it have problems with algae growth, or am I thinking of something different?

Also, for heating I was thinking of using a 500 watt titanium heater with a temp. controller to prevent any problems if the heater malfunctions for some reason. For example:

http://www.championlighting.com/product ... 668&page=1
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:44 pm

I would not want to put any spray bar in the front, it in my opinion, would obstruct viewing area. With those kinds of fish, you would not want to do that.

The Leslie's Pool Filter sand is a light tan color, failry uniform grain size, and I am pretty sure it is a quartz, which would make it silica based. I have not heard from anyone having those issues with algae caused by the sand. I do know a large number of people that use that sand.

For heaters, be sure to buy the best you can afford and feel comfortable with. I have been using Marinelands Visi-Therm Stealth heaters, and have not had any issues with them in 2 years of operation. They have been keeping the water temperature almost exactly at the set point. They do a good job. I have never used the one in your link, to know its quality.

Take care,

Geoff
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:57 pm

Geoff,

Thanks for all of your input so far. :)

In all of my other tanks I use Visi-therm, they are great. How many total watts should i use? Maybe 2 250 watts, one on either side of the tank.

When I mentioned putting a spray bar in the front of the tank, you wont actually be able to see the spray bar, so the view of the fish and the tank will remain unobstructed. Does that change your opinion on that matter?
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:06 pm

1-250W heater should be fine as long as the tank is in a room of your house where you plan to keep it comfortable. Otherwise, I would use (2). Here is Texas 1- heater is no issue, for you in PHilly, you might go ahead and have (2) for winter use.

If your not going to be able to see the spray bar then I cannot really think of a reason not to try it if that's what you want to do. Since your doing a Fiberglass background, what was going to be your idea to put the suction and discharge lines at anyway?

The FX5 is going to push particles 360 degrees, so in general the most debris is going to settle on the bottom on the same side where the spray bar is located. So, your going to more likely want to put your suction intake on the same side as the discharge to be most effective. IT all really depends on what your trying to really accomplish by having the spraybar on the front glass. If your thinking it will keep the debris pushed to the back of the aquarium, I think that will not work out for you like that. The FX5 flowrate really keeps things pretty churned up. I am thinking your trying to prevent having anything showing on the background since your making it all one piece.

Are you going to conceal the suciton intakes into the fiberglass background, or what?

Geoff
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby Afishionado » Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:34 pm

Just one point to add on something raised earlier in the thread - what to put in the XP3. The coarse sponges on the bottom tray plus all bio-media in the upper trays is a good plan. If you decide to use finer sponge (in the top tray) for polishing, don't use anything finer than what is sold with the filter. I've found that the no-name floss sold in bags at many lfs compresses and clogs up real quick and drops the flow rate significantly within a month. I believe XP3's have a good flow rate as long as the media is not too dense. Although the nominal flow rate of an E-heim 2028 is lower, you can pack it more densely without as much impact on the flow rate, from what I've seen. (I believe it's comparable to the old horsepower vs torque trade-off.)
Afishionado
 
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:27 pm
Location: Montreal

Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:15 pm

geoff_tropheus wrote:1-250W heater should be fine as long as the tank is in a room of your house where you plan to keep it comfortable. Otherwise, I would use (2). Here is Texas 1- heater is no issue, for you in PHilly, you might go ahead and have (2) for winter use.

If your not going to be able to see the spray bar then I cannot really think of a reason not to try it if that's what you want to do. Since your doing a Fiberglass background, what was going to be your idea to put the suction and discharge lines at anyway?

The FX5 is going to push particles 360 degrees, so in general the most debris is going to settle on the bottom on the same side where the spray bar is located. So, your going to more likely want to put your suction intake on the same side as the discharge to be most effective. IT all really depends on what your trying to really accomplish by having the spraybar on the front glass. If your thinking it will keep the debris pushed to the back of the aquarium, I think that will not work out for you like that. The FX5 flowrate really keeps things pretty churned up. I am thinking your trying to prevent having anything showing on the background since your making it all one piece.

Are you going to conceal the suciton intakes into the fiberglass background, or what?

Geoff


I think I'll go with 2 heaters b/c it gets pretty cold in the winter. I did spent 7.5 months in texas, and that summer was freaking brutal. I had blisters on my head from sunburn, but anyway, back on topic, lol.

I was just thinking the spray bar up front would push the debris back to the intakes on the filters. Should I just go with your original idea of having one intake 2-3 inches off of the side of the tanks in the back and put the returns in the middle like you said? How would you angle the FX5's returns being that it has dual returns?

I hadnt really considered building the intakes into the background...im not sure how I'd be able to accomplish it. I'm just trying to make the tank as nice as possible 8)

and is this the leslie's pool place where I can get the sand or is some place different?
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:27 pm

Here is a store locator for Leslie's, but any pool supply store should have sand. I know for certain Leslie's is light tan, others could be white or different color.

http://leslies.know-where.com/leslies/

On my FX5's I have the two outputs 90 degrees apart and aimned somewhat up at the surface so that there is just enough signs of a ripple on the water surface.

You can try my original idea, I'd probably go about 4-6" on the FX5 from the corner for the intake, and see if you like it. If not you could try other configurations, then once your happy with the look of the intakes/discharges, and heaters, then build your background around those items so it looks really nice.

Once you build your background, it is going to limit you to number of locations you could move things around.
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:40 pm

geoff_tropheus wrote:Here is a store locator for Leslie's, but any pool supply store should have sand. I know for certain Leslie's is light tan, others could be white or different color.

http://leslies.know-where.com/leslies/

On my FX5's I have the two outputs 90 degrees apart and aimned somewhat up at the surface so that there is just enough signs of a ripple on the water surface.

You can try my original idea, I'd probably go about 4-6" on the FX5 from the corner for the intake, and see if you like it. If not you could try other configurations, then once your happy with the look of the intakes/discharges, and heaters, then build your background around those items so it looks really nice.

Once you build your background, it is going to limit you to number of locations you could move things around.


If its aimed at the surface, how does the debris on the sand get moved to the intakes? There just is enough water movement to make the derbis move?
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:09 pm

The water jet that comes out impinges on the front glass which pushes everything back towards the suction intake.

Ouput ->>>>>>Glass
Intake <<<<<<-
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby stslimited84 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:39 pm

Im hopefully going to pick up the sand tomorrow from leslie's. There are a bunch nearby so hopefully its not hard to come by and is cheap! I should just ask for pool filter sand right? Nothing special to ask for?

Do you have any recommendations on plants I could put in the tank that would survive/flourish? I know most plants would get destroyed, but are there any that would make it?
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

Postby geoff_tropheus » Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:36 pm

Regular Pool Filter Sand. It should be in a white bag if I remember correctly.

Just be sure to wash it good by putting it in a bucket, and rinsing it in water stirring it around, draining it, till the water looks clear. Then put the sand into the tank.

Even after you put all 100lbs in there, you may still need another waterchange to get it clear.

As for plants, different types of Anubias has worked well for me, and some Vals and ofcoarse plastic ones. Everything else gets pretty much nibbbled on. Whichever Anubias you get, get the largest one you can find. They will typically eat the early/new leaves.

Hopefully others have had much better experience with plants to give some idea here. I dont use plants in my tanks anymore. Got tired of trying to make them look good.

Best of luck with the setup!

Geoff
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae & Tropheus Lunangwa
300G Petrochromis Orthognathus Tri-Color & Tropheus Kambwimba
180G Karilani Island Duboisi & Rutunga & Katoto
180G Ikola
150G mpimbwe Red Cheek
150G brichardi Ujiji
115G annectens Kekese
geoff_tropheus
 
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:01 pm
Location: Pasadena, Texas

Postby stslimited84 » Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:49 am

Anybody have plant recommendations?

I'm going to have to play around with the background. Its going to be my first DIY background, and I'm not sure how to hide the intakes/returns, and the heaters in the background. Any thoughts on that?
stslimited84
 
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:17 am

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