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My Craigslist Purchase!

2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  austings 
#1 ·
So, Everyone on here is always buying stuff off a craigslist. I paid a ton for my 55 gallon brand new. I decided I wasnt doing that. So off to craigslist I went. I've been looking for probably about a month. I found some good deals about 2.5 hours away. I planned on going next week to pick up another 55 with a four foot light. No stand, no filters, no canopy for $150. I had looked in my area, but wasnt pleased. Tonight I looked again. Found an ad for a 65 gallon bowfront tank with another 15 gallon tank, and misc supplies. He wanted $250. I contacted him. He said he wanted $200. So I went to his house. He had a brand new 65 gallon bowfront tank, with glass top sitting there. Then he showed me the "misc supplies" He had - 2 56 pound buckets of salt mix. 4 aquaclear power heads. 1 aquaclear 50 H.O.B. Test kit. 2 heaters, one 200 watt, one 100 watt. 2 gravel vacuums. 6 - 24" strip lights. two boxes of metal halide bulbs, brand new. Thermometer on the 65 gallon tank. Glass tops for both 65 and 15 gallon tank. 2 rock decorations, 1 wood decoration. A brand new Fluval 303 in original packaging. with all brand new filter media in original package. Background for the 65 gallon. Air pump with dual outputs. 50 feet of air line tubing. Mag float algae cleaner, another long glass scrubber, net with 2 foot handle. Undergavel filter plates. Some water conditoner as well. And a piece of wood that was cut to fix the 65 gallon bow front tank. All this for $175.

I loaded it all quicker than he could blink. Got it home, unloaded it all. 3 of the lights i picked up didn't work. That was ok. All the power heads work, and the air pump works. HOB works.

This is going to be my project tank. I will be building a stand for it. I am going to separate some of my current cichlids between my current 55 gallon tank, and this new 65 gallon. Thread is worthless without pics, right? Well here you go:

 
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#4 ·
Sweet deal...gotta love craigslist when you find those great deals...will be watching for progress. Congrats!!!
 
#5 ·
Excellent pickup! Especially on the brand new items.

Don't toss those non-working strip lights though. It could be as simple as cleaning them up, changing bulbs or possibly the starters, if they have them. If they turn out to be non-repairable (doubtful), you may be able to convert them to use Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL's) or maybe Light Emitting Diodes (LED's).

Ooh look, more acronyms to remember. :lol:
 
#6 ·
Iggy Newcastle said:
That's quite a bit of stuff. If the test kit is the liquid type with test tubes, just make sure that it's not expired. Nice find
The test kit is liquid. Theirs two boxes test ammonia, with glass tubes and a color chart. Then theirs a nitrite test kit as well. I have looked all over the boxes, and the bottles and I cant find a date. I tested my 55g,and it said their wasnt any ammonia. Any way that I could get it to test positive to make sure it still works?

Deeda said:
Excellent pickup! Especially on the brand new items.

Don't toss those non-working strip lights though. It could be as simple as cleaning them up, changing bulbs or possibly the starters, if they have them. If they turn out to be non-repairable (doubtful), you may be able to convert them to use Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL's) or maybe Light Emitting Diodes (LED's).

Ooh look, more acronyms to remember. :lol:
I didn't even think about that. that's a good idea. I really don't need six of them. So i was thinking of trading them in at my LFS to get store credit along with few other things. I know I won't get much, but every little bit makes this purchase cheaper.
 
#8 ·
Deeda said:
If the test kit is made by API, check the 4 digit code number on the bottle. Example, 0208 = Feb 2008. If the test kit has been opened, it is recommended to replace it after 3 years.
I learn something new everyday on this forum :thumb: (mine are new but always nice to know these things as you don't know how long they have sat on a shelf)
 
#10 ·
clhinds78 said:
Making a bowfront stand could prove challenging!
Lol, it might be easier than rectangular - since everything I build comes out kind of... warped... anyway :lol:
 
#13 ·
Deeda said:
If the test kit is made by API, check the 4 digit code number on the bottle. Example, 0208 = Feb 2008. If the test kit has been opened, it is recommended to replace it after 3 years.
I just threw them away. I'll buy new a new kit.

clhinds78 said:
Making a bowfront stand could prove challenging!
I have a few ideas. I need to draw it up. Then I can post pics.

I was going threw everything today. He had used alot of this equipment that came with it for a saltwater tank. So I have been cleaning the salt buildup off of the heaters, and powerheads. Upon doing so, I realized that the two bigger powerheads have the reverse suction on it. So i think I will be using this. Ill use either the undergravel plates that I got, or build a couple jets. I also tested the Fluval 303, it worked great.

Once I got all of the saltwater residue off of the heater, I plugged in it, put it in a bucket and tested to make sure it works. It does. But, I wanted to know what brand it was. So I went to google, typed in the model number. Its a Marineland Stealth 200 watt heater, these heaters have been recalled. So I emailed marineland, I found that they were sending replacements out too people. So, maybe I will get lucky.

So far, i need to buy new "hinges" for the glass tops. And maybe a new heater, any recommendations? I like the Aqueon pro heaters because they're black. But I was wondering if you could spray paint a heater black, to make it blend in with the background? Anyone tried this?

Also, being that it is a bowfront tank, does the limit of species that go in this tank stay they same as a regular rectangle tank?

Any other thoughts you guys want to share?
 
#14 ·
I'm glad a lot of the equipment is in working order. Definitely see if Marineland will still replace the heater, if not, cut the cord off and throw it out.

Do not paint any heater! It will void warranty and it will probably inhibit proper operation and may cause heater failure. You can always hide it behind any rock work or place it horizontally so it's not visible. Do check if the mfg. disallows horizontal installation or recommends maximum immersion depth first.

You can check the Product Reviews section of the forum for recommendations. I prefer to use Ebo Jager heaters myself. Choose the wattage carefully. I find that my room temperature of 68F in the winter months allows me to use a smaller watt heater than recommended. I like to use 2 or 3 watts per gallon as my rule.

Use the standard rectangle recommendation for a bow-front tank. The tank footprint is more valuable in my opinion.

I got my hinges & the plastic rear filler pieces online at the same place.
 
#15 ·
Just an update -

Been cleaning the equipment up. Theirs alot of salt build up on the powerheads and a couple of the lights. But so far most of it has came off. I bought the wood to build my stand, I will be starting that soon.

I also put the Brand new Fluval 303 on my 55 gallon to allow it to "seed'.

I also found in the bottom of a bucket, a metal halide transoformers, and what looks like a large starter for the typical lights. Maybe the guy planned on doing a DIY light. I will post pics of it soon. It'd be cool to build my own light.
 
#16 ·
Heres the Ballast and starter the guy gave me. Any help would be appreciated, it would be cool to do my own DIY lighting. It says its for metal halide. Id assume I cannot use this for a T8 or T5 setup? Also, Is their any other parts that I need to make this work? Other than bulb connectors, and a power cord?
 
#17 ·
Heard back from marineland today, they will be replacing the heater for me. I am very excited. Shows how awesome their customer support is.

I also picked up some black paint, for the background. And got the wood to build the stand. I will upload pics.
 
#18 ·
austings said:
Heard back from marineland today, they will be replacing the heater for me. I am very excited. Shows how awesome their customer support is.

I also picked up some black paint, for the background. And got the wood to build the stand. I will upload pics.
:thumb:

Marinland is very good about that!
 
#19 ·
Started on the stand finally. I had the lumber store cut the wood for me. The guy that cut them took extra care to make sure everything was exactly as I needed it. And they also didn't charge me their fee for cutting. The cost so far for the stand is only about $16. The plywood piece came with the tank. Here are a couple pics -




Still need to add a few more pieces of 2x4's to reinforce it. Then add the top. I cannot decide what to do for the front. I cant decide if I want to keep it square, or wrap the front so that it matches the curve of the tank. Im thinking about keeping it square, then adding a piece at the bottom to cover up the 2x4s. Thoughts, comments or concerns let me hear them!
 
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