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Fluval 306 OK for 36 gal with 9 or 10 Africans?

7K views 36 replies 8 participants last post by  EvvyThomas 
#1 ·
Going to upgrade my HOB filter to a canister for noise reasons. Either Fluval 306 or 406. I'd like to overstock my 36 gal bowfront a bit to 10 (maybe 12) fish total to include a couple cats, and plenty of Cichlid-friendly live plants. The fluval will be my first canister filter, and I've already done the 'chevy vs ford' research so I'm not looking for any opinions over that debate. Just want to know if the 306 is enough to handle the load of what I want to do or should I hold off until I can get the 406? OR, will the 406 be TOO much flow for a 36 gal tank? If the 306 will suffice, I will get it now and later on get two 406's when I get the 72 gallon I have been eyeballing.. :D

So basically what I'm asking is this. Will double the filtration (306 in a 36 gal,) along with religious weekly 25% water changes be enough to keep up with the load of the stock I intend to keep?

Thanks in advance for your replies.
Evvy
 
#3 ·
Argh.. not the answer I wanted but you are probably right. As a side note, I will be keeping the 36 running even when I get the 72. So are you saying the single 306 will not do the job on my current setup and that I should plan on owning three 406's in the long run?
 
#4 ·
EvvyThomas said:
Argh.. not the answer I wanted but you are probably right. As a side note, I will be keeping the 36 running even when I get the 72. So are you saying the single 306 will not do the job on my current setup and that I should plan on owning three 406's in the long run?
The 306 would do ok on you current set up but it wouldn't hurt to get the 406. If you are looking at doing dual 406's on your 72 then I would get one now and buy two more later and you will basically have 3 of the same filter which never hurts.
 
#5 ·
I had a 405 on mine and its definitely not too much flow. When I bought the 405 there was around a $20 difference between the 305 and the 405, if the 06 series are similarly priced you might as well go bigger. $20 isn't much when you consider its a piece of equipment that you will use for years to come and not something you'll throw out in a few months.
 
#6 ·
Yes, it's only about a $30 difference on Amazon.. Same with the 305 vs the 405. The 305 is $90 and the 405 is $120. Anyone had a chance to compare the 05 series to the 06? I can get the 405 for the same price as the 306. I've read that it has a new impeller design that is supposed to be quieter and more efficient. And that the seal has been beefed up some. But gawd I HATE those white intake and flow nozzle peices!! Why would they do that? -shakes head- But if the quality difference is big, then I'd maybe get the 406 and spend the extra on the replacement tubes for the 405... Anyone know if the 06 is worth the upgrade from the 05?

Oh and btw.. Just went out and got a used 15 gal for a quarantine tank. Found the Aquaclear 30 HOB filter on sale for $25 at my local Petco. I'm pretty impressed with the design and flow through system on this filter. Having seperate media sections in a HOB filter was something I didn't know existed. And it's sooo much quieter than the Aqueon HOB that's on my main tank. So far I'm liking Hagen!
 
#7 ·
What are the dimensions of the 36G? What kind of Africans are you thinking of keeping in it? Sounds like a lot of fish for the tank, but maybe you are keeping something I am not familiar with.
 
#8 ·
Not sure what kinds of Cichlids I will be going with in the long run. I have more research to do. I currently have a m/f pair of Aulonocara German Reds, a Zebra Obliquiden, a Cobalt Blue and a Yellow Lab hybrid. I like the idea of having only 2 or 3 types per tank and maybe getting into breeding. And like I said a couple of posts ago I am already pricing out 72 gal setups. So when the fish outgrow the 36 gal I can move them over to the 72. My online research has lead me to believe that overstocking is pretty common with Cichlids to help spread out the agression. The key being overfiltration and religious water changes, which is why I started this thread regarding the size of filter I need for my plans with this 36 gal tall bowfront. Is this not true? Do you think that having 10 small to med sized Cichlids in my 36 is too much? They will not reach full size before they are moved over to the 72 gal.
 
#9 ·
The video looks like the tank is a bowfront. What are the dimensions?

Instead of purchasing additional non-white intake/output pipes, you could always use Krylon Fusion spray paint in your choice of color to paint them. Much cheaper and I've used it in my tanks with no problems. Just be sure to cure the painted parts for 7 days before using.
 
#11 ·
EvvyThomas said:
Do you think that having 10 small to med sized Cichlids in my 36 is too much? They will not reach full size before they are moved over to the 72 gal.
Yes, if we are talking about obliq, cobalt and peacocks in a 30" tank then I think the fish are too big. You could do six yellow labs in a 30" tank, but only because they are so peaceful. That would be the proper level of overstocking.

If they are like one inch now and you are buying the 72G in less than 6 months, that might work. I would not mix the cobalt with peacocks though.
 
#12 ·
DJRansome said:
Yes, if we are talking about obliq, cobalt and peacocks in a 30" tank then I think the fish are too big. You could do six yellow labs in a 30" tank, but only because they are so peaceful. That would be the proper level of overstocking.

If they are like one inch now and you are buying the 72G in less than 6 months, that might work. I would not mix the cobalt with peacocks though.
I'll have the 72 within two months, if not sooner. But explain to me how 10 is too much for my 36 if I am keeping up on the water parameters. Is it because of agression? More thorough explainations of your replies would help me learn.
 
#13 ·
EvvyThomas said:
DJRansome said:
Yes, if we are talking about obliq, cobalt and peacocks in a 30" tank then I think the fish are too big. You could do six yellow labs in a 30" tank, but only because they are so peaceful. That would be the proper level of overstocking.

If they are like one inch now and you are buying the 72G in less than 6 months, that might work. I would not mix the cobalt with peacocks though.
I'll have the 72 within two months, if not sooner. But explain to me how 10 is too much for my 36 if I am keeping up on the water parameters. Is it because of agression? More thorough explainations of your replies would help me learn.
Yes....as for now with them all being small juveniles they will be PROBABLY be ok. Sometimes even juveniles can be VERY aggressive. As they start to mature.....that is where you are going to run into problems.

Also....I would not mix the zebras with peacocks. The zebras will likely stress, nip, attack, etc....the peacocks.
 
#14 ·
yup, I have noticed that.. the zebra is all over the German Red male and his tail fin has come up missing a chunk as of late... so I have to factor in types when it comes to agression as well. where can I read up on what Cichlids are best kept apart and why? or should that be my google search? :) Thanks again guys for all the helpful info. I'm sucking up this knowledge like a sponge. Love this forum!
 
#16 ·
EvvyThomas said:
..and do I have this right? The reds are peacock, the cobalt and yellow are mbuna? and the zebra is victorian? these are the categories for Africans?
Haps and mbuna are the two we talk about the most. The vics are just the haps from a different lake...lake victoria. Now there are zebra Obliquidens(lake victoria) but they look nothing like the mbuna zebras. The mbuna and other haps are generally from lake malawi. The cobalt is a zebra and it is a mbuna. The peacock is a hap more specifically aulonocara. The yellow ones, if you are talking labs are mbuna.
 
#17 ·
lol.. Im going to need to see a chart. so haps and mbunas. ok I'll go from there. but within those two there are those that you don't want together. specifically, my zebra and red are both haps that don't get along if I'm getting you so far... or like i said, maybe i need a flow chart.
 
#18 ·
EvvyThomas said:
lol.. Im going to need to see a chart. so haps and mbunas. ok I'll go from there. but within those two there are those that you don't want together. specifically, my zebra and red are both haps that don't get along if I'm getting you so far... or like i said, maybe i need a flow chart.
Yes...but you kind of have me confused a bit. When you say zebra you mean the zebra obliquidens because the cobalt blue is a type of zebra and a mbuna whereas the obliquidens is a victorian hap. Personally....I have not had much luck housing the zebra obliquidens with my peacocks and other malawi haps. I would not house the mbuna you currently have with your peacocks either. I would pick one or the other. Even with a larger tank there is still going to be issues.
 
#19 ·
To confirm, yes it is an aggression concern. In cramped quarters, a fish that might be content in a larger tank might be more aggressive. The fish want to claim a territory, some want three square feet all to themselves. That's why one male small, peaceful male and his harem works in a 36" tank (never tried mbuna in a 30" tank). A longer tank allows you to house somewhat larger and more aggressive fish like the cobalt and possibly the obliq with their harems. Like 13razor, I had to remove my obliq from a hap/peacock tank because he was too aggressive, even in a 48"x18" tank.

By the way, bowfront tanks are stocked by lengthXwidth dimensions, but you should measure on the sides, not in the middle. So a 72G bowfront is stocked like a 55G rectangle which is 48x12.
 
#20 ·
Argh! I love the bowfronts! what a bummer. But I see what you are getting at. I'll want a larger foot print and less height. I was at Petsmart today and saw a very nice 75 gal rectangle. Didn't catch the dimensions but it was not tall and not super long, more width than you normally see. deep from front to back, I mean. I liked it. Maybe I'll go that route.

So I've made a decision for the 36. Two species totaling 8 fish if you think I can get away with it. I'd like to try and breed The Red so him and 3 girls for him. Now I have to figure out what other type of male and harem to keep with him.
 
#21 ·
When I had peacocks in my 36" tank I was barely able to get away with a quad (1m:3f). The females intermittently spent time lurking under the surface which indicates harassment. I moved them as soon as I was able.

Since it will only be 2 months, why not stick with one species in the 30" tank and add the second when you get the 75G?
 
#22 ·
DJRansome said:
When I had peacocks in my 36" tank I was barely able to get away with a quad (1m:3f). The females intermittently spent time lurking under the surface which indicates harassment. I moved them as soon as I was able.

Since it will only be 2 months, why not stick with one species in the 30" tank and add the second when you get the 75G?
I want the 75 as a show tank, with lots of color and variety. I figure then I could use the 36 as a breeder tank and trade the fish in as they got bigger or sell them on aquabid; was just hoping to get away with more than one type of fish in it. Really wishing I'd have started out with the 46 gal bowfront. Not a huge difference but maybe would give me some lee-way.

As a sidenote, came across a Cichlid documentary on youtube. Watching it now.. it's in six parts. search Jewels of the Rift on youtube if you want to check it out. not in HD but so far its pretty good.
 
#25 ·
Lake Malawi Aquarium

• Pseudotropheus socofoli - 5
• Metriaclima estherae - 5
• Ancistrus temminckii "Bristlenose Pleco" - 2

• Metriaclima sp. "Msobo" - 5
• Cynotilapia afra - 5
• Ancistrus temminckii "Bristlenose Pleco" - 2

• Placidochromis electra - 4
• Copadichromis azureus - 4
• Synodontis nyassae - 2
taken from the setup guide for a 40 gal.. what do the numbers represent?
 
#26 ·
I would go with the 406 instead. But overall they are crappy filters. I have a post that will be coming in the next day or two about a defect in those filters.
 
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