Equipment & Supplies • Just purchased a Emperor 400 any advise?

For discussion regarding filters, lights, heaters, pumps, etc.

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Postby justinf67 » Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:35 am

steelers fan
do you get air bubbles in the water from ur emp? mines brand new and the bubbles drive me nuts. anything i can do to quiet it down?
55G: Many Dems, 3 Albino Soc (1:3), 3 Yellow Labs, Jalo Reefs (1:2)4 Petricola
55G: 1 Red Zebra, 1 Msobo, 3 Trewavasae juvies, all thats left after a tank wipeout :(
40g Salt tank
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Postby steelers fan » Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:43 am

as mentioned by another member mine was a little noisy for about 2 weeks before it broke itself in and now they are all quiet besides the sound of the water trickling.

as for the micro bubbles i get some whenever i change out the floss or clean the floss but it goes away after a day or two. my guess was that the floss was trapping a little air and once it works through its done. could be the problem with your media as well. i think the finer the media the more chance of it trappin some free air
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Postby ssondubs » Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:55 pm

Nothing wrong with having bubbles...this means your water is getting some O2.
135G - Fronts, Leleupi, Clown loach & Pl*co. Playsand & Lace rock.

110G - Tropheus Ikola Kaiser, Cyprichromis Leptosoma Utinta, Eretmodus Cyanostictus Karima, Synodontis Petricola, Playsand & lace rock.

10G - Cyp & Gobie grow out
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Postby ridley25 » Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:59 pm

Not to be too pedantic, but water gets oxygenated as it interacts with the atmosphere: at the surface of your tank.

Granted, when these bubbles hit the surface they agitate the water somewhat, which does increase oxygenation a bit.

But they do not diffuse oxygen into the water as they rise.

Not the answer to the question about a bubbling HOB, but I thought I'd point it out.

kevin
Malawi 125g: Labeotropheus fuelleborni, Labidochromis sp. "Hongi SRT," Metriaclima sp. "Msobo," Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei," Pseudotropheus sp. "Williamsi North," Syndodontis njassae
Tanganyika 15g: 'Lamprologus' multifasciatus species tank
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Postby Longstocking » Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:44 pm

Please stop attacking people and stick with the topic. No personal attacks or I will lock the thread.

I edited a lot of posts and deleted a few.
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Postby JWerner2 » Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:51 pm

smellsfishy1 wrote:In my E.400 I use the scotch-brite scour pads in the front. ( make sure your pH is above 7.0 at all times if you go this route)

I use a course bonded floss that is blue on one side and white on the other. I believe it is designed for marineland canister filters but it performs excellent in this application as well.

Then a finer white floss that is pretty much throw away or disposable if you don't want to clean it.


Why? I have high PH for my Africans and have been using the scotch bright for a long time. Whats the issue? I never came across any.

A canister filter... ANY canister filter, has about a 100% better chance of leaking and causing water damage than an Emperor 400. There is virtually NO way for it to leak. I have experiences one minor issue in years of using them, and that was a spray bar issue (and was my fault after not installing it correctly after taking it out to clean it).

I use both of them, so this is unbiased. Both have their advantages and there is certainly a much wider array of options for canisters (and they are better for mechanical filtration) - but if you want to talk "risk of water damage" or failure leave the Emperor 400 out of the discussion, there's pretty much no risk at all with them. Canisters have o-rings, seals, hoses, etc.
_________________


Thats odd cause 100% of my cans never ever leaked.

How ever Im not lazy and I do my regular maintenance to my filters,.... something I notice most people complaining about cans like to lack.

x 100000 on filter floss.

I have used filter floss and scotch bright as my ONLY media for sometime now and I couldn't be more happy with the money I save as well as the sparkling clear water.
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Postby ssondubs » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:10 pm

JWerner2,

What technique do you use to pack floss in your Emperors?
135G - Fronts, Leleupi, Clown loach & Pl*co. Playsand & Lace rock.

110G - Tropheus Ikola Kaiser, Cyprichromis Leptosoma Utinta, Eretmodus Cyanostictus Karima, Synodontis Petricola, Playsand & lace rock.

10G - Cyp & Gobie grow out
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Postby smellsfishy1 » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:13 pm

I don't understand what your point is JWerner2.
I'm advising others to maintain a pH above 7 because lower than that would be acidic.
In acidic conditions you run the chance of aluminum oxide getting into the tank water from the pads and killing the fish.
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Postby JWerner2 » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:24 pm

smellsfishy1 wrote:I don't understand what your point is JWerner2.
I'm advising others to maintain a pH above 7 because lower than that would be acidic.
In acidic conditions you run the chance of aluminum oxide getting into the tank water from the pads and killing the fish.


I dont have a point, I was asking why :wink: . I never heard of that. I use the standard scotch bright green pads with no print.

Regardless Im in the clear I guess since I keep it above. I was thinking maybe it needed to stay neutral or lower.

JWerner2,

What technique do you use to pack floss in your Emperors?


I dont use HOB's anymore but when I was running one I simply wet the floss down and pack it in.
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Postby SMoKe0uT » Wed May 02, 2012 8:44 pm

LOL @ 200 GPH coming out of the spray bar.
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